French butter has a reputation that borders on myth.

Ask any chef. Ask any baker. Ask anyone who has ever spread it on warm bread and had a small, private moment of silence. French butter is richer. More aromatic. More complex. More… buttery.

But that reputation didn’t come from branding or nostalgia. It comes from a very real set of biological, chemical, and cultural choices that shape how French butter is made — and how it tastes.

This isn’t about nationalism. Plenty of countries make excellent butter.
But French butter is different in specific, measurable ways.

Let’s unpack why.

Butter starts with milk, and French milk behaves differently

Butter is simple in theory. It’s just milk fat, gathered together.

But the behaviour of that fat depends heavily on the milk it comes from — and French milk has a distinct starting point.

In many French dairy regions, cows are still predominantly pasture-fed for much of the year. Fresh grass changes the fatty acid profile of milk fat, increasing levels of short-chain and branched fatty acids. These compounds are small but powerful. They’re responsible for buttery, creamy, and sometimes faintly nutty aromas.

Grain-heavy diets tend to push milk fat in a flatter, more uniform direction. Pasture does the opposite. It introduces variability, seasonality, and flavour.

That’s one reason French butter doesn’t taste identical year-round. And that variability is treated as a feature, not a flaw.

The quiet power of cream separation

Before butter is churned, cream has to be separated from milk.

In industrial systems, this happens fast, hot, and efficiently. Centrifugal separators spin milk at high speed, pulling fat out almost instantly. The result is clean, stable cream — and very little character.

Traditional French butter production often slows this step down.

Cream is allowed to rest. Fat globules remain larger. Natural enzymes stay active longer. That extra time allows subtle biochemical changes to begin before fermentation even starts.

You don’t see this on a label. But you taste it later.

Cultured cream is the real secret

This is where French butter truly parts ways with most of the world.

The majority of French butter is made from cultured cream. That means the cream is deliberately fermented before churning.

Lactic acid bacteria consume lactose and produce organic acids, aromatic compounds, and flavour molecules such as diacetyl. Diacetyl is especially important — it’s the compound most strongly associated with classic buttery aroma.

Fermentation also changes texture. Acidification alters how fat crystals form during churning, producing butter that spreads more easily and melts more luxuriously on the tongue.

This is why French butter smells alive when you unwrap it. There’s acidity, depth, and complexity before it even touches food.

Time matters more than temperature

Speed is the enemy of flavour.

In traditional French butter making, cream is fermented slowly, often over 12 to 48 hours. That gives bacteria time to do meaningful work.

Fast fermentation can acidify cream, but it doesn’t build the same aromatic range. Slow fermentation allows secondary metabolites to form — the compounds that give cultured butter its layered flavour rather than simple tang.

This approach reflects a broader French dairy philosophy: let microbes set the pace.

The same logic applies to cheese. Butter just gets less credit for it.

Churning is about structure, not just separation

Churning isn’t simply about knocking fat together.

It’s about controlling how fat crystals fracture and recombine.

Traditional barrel churning produces a different mechanical stress pattern than modern continuous churns. Fat globules collide, smear, and partially rupture in a less uniform way. This creates butter with a more open, expressive structure.

Butter made this way is often labelled beurre de baratte, a term that signals traditional barrel churning and a slower, more flavour-driven approach rather than continuous industrial processing.

That structure holds aroma compounds differently. It releases flavour more gradually in the mouth.

It’s subtle. But once you notice it, it’s hard to un-notice.

Salt isn’t just seasoning — it’s a preservation tool

French butter culture has always understood salt as functional, not decorative.

In regions like Brittany, salted butter wasn’t a luxury. It was survival. Salt slowed spoilage, stabilised fat, and extended shelf life long before refrigeration.

But salt also changes how butter tastes and behaves.

It sharpens acidity. It suppresses bitterness. It enhances perceived sweetness. And it tightens butter’s structure slightly, giving it a firmer bite.

That’s why French salted butter often tastes more balanced than heavily salted industrial butter elsewhere. The salt is integrated, not dumped in at the end.

Appellations protect more than names

Some French butters are protected by AOP status — the same system used for wine and cheese.

Take Charentes-Poitou butter, for example. The AOP doesn’t just define geography. It defines feed, cream handling, fermentation time, and churning method.

Those rules preserve flavour by preserving process.

Without them, butter trends toward efficiency. With them, it stays expressive.

This is why AOP butter tastes consistent in character even when it changes slightly season to season.

Texture is engineered through restraint

French butter is often softer at room temperature than its international counterparts.

That’s partly due to fatty acid composition and partly due to fermentation. But it’s also about water content.

French butter regulations typically cap water more tightly than some global standards. Less water means denser fat networks and more concentrated flavour.

It also means butter melts cleanly rather than weeping.

That matters in pastry. It matters on toast. It matters everywhere butter shows up naked.

Butter as an ingredient, not a background player

In French cooking, butter isn’t hidden.

It’s finished with. Mounted into sauces. Spread thickly. Folded into dough where its flavour remains intact.

Because the butter has flavour worth showcasing.

When butter tastes neutral, recipes compensate with sugar, salt, or technique. When butter tastes complex, the recipe gets simpler.

French cuisine evolved alongside flavourful butter, not in spite of it.

Industrial butter optimises for sameness

Most modern butter is designed to disappear.

It should behave predictably. It should resist oxidation. It should taste the same everywhere, always.

That’s not inherently bad. But it’s a different goal.

French butter prioritises expression over uniformity. It accepts variability in exchange for flavour.

Once you understand that trade-off, the difference makes sense.

Seasonality still exists in French butter

Spring butter in France is often brighter, grassier, and more aromatic. Winter butter tends to be rounder and more muted.

That seasonality comes from feed, fermentation dynamics, and microbial activity.

Many global butters flatten this variation through blending and standardisation.

French butter lets it show.

The nose knows first

One of the easiest ways to tell cultured French butter from sweet cream butter is smell.

Before you taste anything, your brain already has information. Fermentation creates volatile compounds that reach your nose immediately.

That aroma primes your palate. It signals richness, acidity, and depth before fat ever melts.

That’s not romance. That’s neurobiology.

French butter isn’t fancy — it’s intentional

The most important thing to understand is this:

French butter isn’t special because it’s indulgent. It’s special because it’s deliberate.

• Deliberate feed.
• Deliberate fermentation.
• Deliberate time.

Every choice nudges flavour forward instead of neutralising it.

And when you stack enough small choices in the same direction, the result becomes unmistakable.

You don’t need France to make great butter — but you need the mindset

French butter isn’t magic.

Other countries can — and do — make cultured butter of extraordinary quality. But when they succeed, they’re usually borrowing the same principles.

• Slow cream.
• Live cultures.
• Time over speed.
• Flavour over yield.

French butter just never forgot those principles in the first place.

Conclusion: butter that tastes like something

French butter tastes special because it’s allowed to taste like something.

• It tastes like milk.
• It tastes like fermentation.
• It tastes like grass, time, and microbes doing their job without being rushed.

It isn’t louder. It isn’t heavier. It’s simply more complete.

And once you get used to that, going back to neutral butter feels a bit like listening to music with the treble turned off.

If you enjoy unpacking food this way — flavour first, hype second — you’ll probably enjoy the emails I send too.
They’re short, nerdy, and very much pro-cheese.

You can join the Cheese Scientist email list by clicking here.

Jonah Kincaid

Cheese lover. Scientist. Created a website and a Youtube channel about cheese science because he could not find answers to his questions online. 

cheesescientist.com

The post Why French Butter Tastes So Good (It’s Not an Accident) appeared first on Cheese Scientist.

SEE ALSO: The ultimate list of French cheeses you need to try at least once in your life →

The origins of Camembert

Camembert was first made in Normandy, France. Its history dates back to 1791 when a farmer named Marie Harel created it. The cheese is named after the village of Camembert in Normandy. It quickly became popular and remains one of the most well-known French cheeses today.

Camembert’s roots are closely tied to the Normandy region. The rich pastures of Normandy provide ideal conditions for dairy farming. and the region’s cows produce high-quality milk, which is essential for making top-quality Camembert.

The story goes that Marie Harel learned the recipe from a priest who was fleeing the French Revolution. She used her own techniques to develop what we now know as Camembert. Over time, the recipe spread beyond Normandy, and by the 19th century, it was being sold all over France.

How Camembert cheese is made

Making Camembert is a craft that requires skill and patience. The process starts with cow’s milk, which is the base ingredient. Traditionally, unpasteurised milk is used, though today many producers use pasteurised milk for safety reasons.

Once the milk is collected, a starter culture is added. This helps the milk curdle. Rennet, an enzyme, is then added to speed up the process. After a few hours, the curds form and are cut into small pieces to release the whey.

The curds are then placed into moulds. This is where the cheese takes its shape. Over the next few hours, the whey drains away, leaving behind a soft cheese. It’s then salted, which helps with flavour and preservation.

After salting, the cheese is left to mature. This is the crucial step that gives Camembert its distinctive texture and taste. Maturation typically takes between two and four weeks. During this time, the cheese develops a white, bloomy rind. Inside, the cheese becomes soft and creamy.

Traditional vs. industrial Camembert cheese

There is a difference between traditional Camembert and the industrial versions you find in supermarkets. Traditional Camembert is made with raw milk and follows strict guidelines. It’s known as “Camembert de Normandie”. To carry this name, it must be made in Normandy using local milk and traditional methods.

Industrial Camembert, on the other hand, is often made with pasteurised milk. It’s mass-produced and may not have the same depth of flavour as traditional versions. While still delicious, it lacks some of the character that makes authentic Camembert so special.

The production of Camembert has become a point of pride for Normandy. The AOP (Appellation d’Origine Protégée) label protects traditional Camembert de Normandie. This ensures that the cheese is made to exacting standards.

The flavour profile

Camembert has a complex flavour profile. When young, it has a mild, slightly earthy taste. As it matures, the flavour becomes stronger, with more pronounced earthy and mushroom notes. The rind is edible and adds a slight bitterness to the overall taste.

The texture is soft and creamy, especially when the cheese is at room temperature. The inside should be gooey and spreadable. The contrast between the bloomy rind and the soft interior makes for a delightful experience.

Many people compare Camembert to Brie, another soft French cheese. While similar in appearance, Camembert tends to have a more robust flavour. Brie is usually milder and creamier, while Camembert has a stronger, more pungent taste as it matures.

How to enjoy Camembert

Camembert is best enjoyed at room temperature. Take it out of the fridge about 30 minutes before serving. This allows the cheese to soften and its flavours to develop fully.

There are many ways to enjoy Camembert:

• On its own: A slice of Camembert on a piece of baguette is a simple yet delicious treat.
• With fruits: Camembert pairs well with fruits like apples, pears and figs. The sweetness of the fruit complements the earthy flavours of the cheese.
• Baked: Baked Camembert is a very popular dish around the world. Simply place the whole cheese in an ovenproof dish and bake until it’s soft and melty. Serve with crusty bread or crackers for dipping.
• In salads: Add slices of Camembert to a fresh green salad. It pairs beautifully with walnuts, apples and a light vinaigrette.
• With wine: Camembert pairs well with a variety of wines. Some great choices would include an oaked Chardonnay or a dry Riesling.

Storing Camembert cheese

Camembert should be stored in the fridge. Keep it in its original packaging, or wrap it in wax paper. Avoid plastic wrap, as this can cause the cheese to become overly moist.

Camembert continues to mature even after you buy it. If you prefer a milder taste, eat it sooner rather than later. For a stronger flavour, allow it to sit in the fridge for a few days before eating.

Once opened, Camembert should be consumed within a week. It’s best to check the cheese regularly for any signs of spoilage, such as an overly strong ammonia smell.

Health benefits of Camembert

Like many cheeses, Camembert is a good source of protein and calcium. It also contains beneficial bacteria that can aid digestion. However, it’s also high in fat and calories, so it’s best enjoyed in moderation.

Camembert is rich in vitamins like B12, which is important for brain health and red blood cell production. It also provides other nutrients such as vitamin A, which supports eye health and the immune system.

If you’re lactose intolerant, you may still be able to enjoy Camembert. The fermentation process reduces the lactose content, making it easier to digest for some people.

Camembert around the world

Although Camembert originated in France, it’s now produced in many countries. You can find versions of Camembert made in the UK, the USA and even Australia. However, these versions often differ in flavour and texture due to differences in milk and production methods.

In Britain, Camembert is becoming increasingly popular. Many artisan cheesemakers are now producing their own versions, using British milk and local techniques. The best example of this is Hampshire Cheeses’s Tunworth.

While they may not have the AOP status of French Camembert, they are often delicious in their own right.

Fun facts about Camembert

• The round box: The iconic wooden box that Camembert comes in was invented in the late 19th century. It allowed the cheese to be transported more easily and helped its popularity spread.
• War-time cheese: During World War I, Camembert was included in the rations of French soldiers. This boosted its reputation and made it a symbol of French pride.
• Camembert in space: In 2021, a French astronaut took Camembert with him to the International Space Station. It was part of a special meal to celebrate French cuisine.

The Camembert controversy

In recent years, there has been some controversy around the production of Camembert. As demand for the cheese has grown, many large-scale producers have started using pasteurised milk. This has led to a debate about whether pasteurised Camembert can truly be called Camembert.

Traditionalists argue that raw milk is essential to the flavour of authentic Camembert. They believe that pasteurisation removes some of the complexity and depth of the cheese. On the other hand, pasteurised Camembert is safer and has a longer shelf life, making it more accessible to a wider audience.

In response to this debate, French authorities introduced stricter rules around the use of the name “Camembert de Normandie”. Only cheeses made with raw milk and following traditional methods can use this label.

The future of Camembert

As consumer tastes evolve, Camembert continues to adapt. While traditional methods are still prized, there’s a growing interest in innovation within the cheese industry. Producers are experimenting with new techniques, flavours and even plant-based alternatives.

In the UK, for example, there’s been a rise in vegan cheeses, including versions of Camembert made from cashews or other nuts. These plant-based alternatives aim to mimic the creamy texture and rich flavour of traditional Camembert, though they’re not yet able to fully replicate the experience.

Camembert is also facing challenges from climate change. The dairy industry relies heavily on the environment, and changes in weather patterns could impact the quality of milk and the ability to produce certain cheeses. This is a concern not just for Camembert but for all artisanal cheeses.

Conclusion

As you can see, Camembert is more than just a cheese, it’s a symbol of French culture and tradition. From its humble beginnings in Normandy to its worldwide fame, Camembert has captured the hearts of cheese lovers everywhere.

Whether you prefer it mild or strong, baked or fresh, Camembert is a versatile cheese that can be enjoyed in many ways. Its creamy texture and earthy flavour make it a favourite on cheese boards and in recipes alike.

As Camembert continues to evolve, its rich history and unique taste ensure that it will remain a beloved cheese for generations to come.

Jonah Kincaid

Cheese lover. Scientist. Created a website and a Youtube channel about cheese science because he could not find answers to his questions online. 

cheesescientist.com

The post Camembert: Pride of Normandie (France’s Famous Soft Cheese) appeared first on Cheese Scientist.

What is Reblochon? 

Reblochon is a traditional cheese made from cow’s milk, renowned for its velvety texture and subtle creamy flavour. Its history is steeped in tradition and folklore, making it a true symbol of the Haute-Savoie region’s cheesemaking heritage. 

This iconic French mountain cheese bears an AOP stamp (since 1996) that protects its origin, production and maturation. You can read more about the AOP and its efforts to protect historical cheeses around Europe in this post here.

Where does Reblochon come from? 

Authentic Reblochon cheese is exclusively crafted in the Haute-Savoie region of the French Alps. The zone of production is bound by Lake Geneva (Lac Léman) in the north, Annecy in the west and Chamonix in the east. 

This region’s pristine mountain pastures and dairy farming traditions contribute to the cheese’s unique character and quality. 

In the 19^th century, the annual production of Reblochon was around 40 metric tonnes. However, thanks to the region’s appeal to winter sports afficionados, Reblochon’s popularity has sky-rocketed. Presently, cheesemakers in Haute Savoie make around 17 000 tonnes each year! 

What does Reblochon mean?

The origin of Reblochon dates back to the 13th century in the Alpine valleys of Thônes. And it owes its existence to the cleverness of the local peasants who were then required to pay a tax to the monks and noble landowners.  

This tax, collected once a year, was calculated based on the number of milk pots filled daily during milking to determine the quantity of cheese owed by the farmer. 

In order to reduce their taxes, the peasants began practicing incomplete milking. Once the tax collector had left, they would perform a second milking after nightfall. This second milking was called “rebloche” from the verb “reblocher” which means “to milk a second time” in the local dialect.  

The milk from this “rebloche“, although not abundant, was rich in cream and flavour allowing the farmers to produce a creamy cheese. And this cheese would eventually become known as Reblochon! 

What type of cheese is Reblochon?

The making of Reblochon involves two traditional cheese technologies. Indeed, Reblochon is both a pressed uncooked cheese and a soft washed rind cheese. Furthermore, it is exclusively a raw milk cheese made with the milk of local cows. 

We’ll tell you more about the production of this iconic French mountain cheese a little bit later. 

Different types of Reblochon 

There are two main types of Reblochon available in France: “Fermier” and “Laitier”. Both offer exceptional flavours and textures, allowing cheese lovers to explore different facets of this French delicacy. 

Reblochon Fermier (Green)

Our first type of Reblochon is the ultimate expression of terroir. Indeed, Reblochon Fermier is made on the farm where the milk is gathered.  

The farmers milk their cows twice a day and immediately use this fresh, raw milk to make Reblochon. Since this is the only milk they use, Reblochon Fermier is a single herd cheese. 

Moreover, every step of the production of this farmhouse cheese is done manually. 

You can tell that you’re looking at a farmhouse Reblochon by the edible green casein plate on the flat part of the cheese. 

Reblochon Laitier (Red) 

While Reblochon Laitier is also made according to AOP regulations, it differs from the Fermier version in a few aspects. For starters, Reblochon Laitier is made by artisanal cheesemakers (not on the farm) or by co-ops called “Fruitières”. 

Furthermore, cheesemaking takes place only once a day and uses a mixture of milks from several local farms. Typically, this takes place within 24 hours of milking and can involve mechanised processes. 

While farmhouse Reblochon wears a green plate, Reblochon Laitier is identified by a red casein plate. 

How is Reblochon made? 

The making of Reblochon cheese is a meticulous and time-honoured process that has been perfected over generations in the Savoie region of the French Alps.  

1. Selection of cows and milk 

Of course, it all begins with the milk. The AOP dictates that the milk used in Reblochon production must come from the Abondance, Montbéliarde or Tarine cow breeds. 

As a matter of fact, those three breeds are known for their ability to thrive in the mountainous terrain and produce rich, flavourful milk. Moreover, they graze on diverse vegetation, which imparts unique terroir characteristics to their milk. 

2. Milk handling 

To make Reblochon, cheesemakers have to use raw whole milk. Throughout the entire manufacturing process, the milk undergoes no heat treatment exceeding 37°C. Indeed, it is neither cooked nor pasteurised. 

On average, it takes four litres of raw milk to produce a 500-gram Reblochon. 

3a. Farmhouse cheesemaking 

On the farm, the milk is coagulated immediately after each milking, which occurs twice a day. The farmer/cheesemaker then cuts the resulting curds and hand-presses them into moulds.  

Each mould is lined with a fine linen cloth and the cheesemaker regularly flips each cheese several times. 

To clearly identify their cheese as “Fermier”, the farmers then place a green, numbered casein plate on the flat part of each cheese. The casein plate also contains information about the farm and the family that owns it. 

3b. Dairy cheesemaking (Laitier or Fruitière)

In the cheese cooperative (“Fruitière”), the cheesemaker receives delivery of chilled milk from several farms. They pour all the milk into the dairy’s vats and warm it to approximately 37°C.  

Then, the cheesemaker adds natural rennet to form the curd, which they later cut using a curd cutter. The curd grains are then transferred into moulds for draining and shaping. 

Next, the cheesemaker places a red casein plate that identities the cheese as a Reblochon Laitier. The cheese is then pressed to complete draining and remove excess whey. It is turned during pressing, then removed from the moulds and salted.  

Finally, the maker transfers all the cheeses to a drying room at a temperature of 16°C to 18°C for four days. 

4. Affinage 

A Reblochon Fermier spends a minimum of eight days on the farm before being transferred to an affineur, who continues the cheese maturation process. 

This involves regularly turning and brushing each cheese with a brine solution. During this maturation process, the cheeses rest on spruce planks. 

As for “Laitier” versions, the Reblochon cheese is transferred to ageing cellars for a minimum of fifteen days, during which it is regularly washed and turned. 

Organoleptic properties of Reblochon 

According to the AOP, each cheese measures between 13-14 cm in diameter, 2-3 cm in thickness and weighs between 450 and 550 g. As the cheese ages, its thin light-cream rind bulges slightly on the sides. 

Your nose will be greeted by inviting aromas of violets, wild thyme and alpine wildflowers coming from the raw milk. Despite being a washed rind cheese, Reblochon’s aroma is far from the robustness associated with cheeses like Epoisses and Maroilles. 

As for its flavour, you can expect subtle notes of fresh cream and hazelnut. Unsurprisingly, those flavours tend to be more pronounced in the farmhouse versions of the cheese. 

Overall, Reblochon boasts a creamy, smooth and supple texture that contrasts beautifully with its thin, crunchy orangey-yellow rind. 

Serving guide for Reblochon 

Savouring Reblochon is an art in itself. To experience its full glory, serve it at room temperature. Pair it with fresh crusty bread, grapes, or apples.  

Of course, Reblochon is a star ingredient in the beloved French dish “Tartiflette”, where it’s melted over potatoes, onions and bacon for a truly indulgent experience. 

Whether you’re serving Reblochon on a platter or in Tartiflette, there are some great local wines from Savoie that you can pair with. Look out for Roussette de Savoie and Saint Péray if you prefer white wine. Or IGP Collines Rhodaniennes and AOP Savoie Arbin for more complex reds.

You can discover our list of the best red wines to pair with cheese here. 

Availability outside of France  

Because it is made with raw milk and matured for less than 40 days, Reblochon is banned in the USA and in Australia. Astonishing right?  

But the good news is that you can find Reblochon de Savoie on the shelves of specialty grocers all around Europe, in Canada and even in some Asian and African countries.  

Alternatives to Reblochon 

Since Reblochon cannot be found in the United States or in Australia, we’ve got some decent pasteurised versions for you. 

1. Délice du Jura: Inspired by Reblochon, this French cheese crafted from pasteurised cow’s milk. This exquisite cheese undergoes a delightful transformation as it matures, becoming increasingly creamy and indulgent. 
2. Préféré des Nos Montagnes: This is another pasteurised milk version of Reblochon that is available throughout Australia and some parts of Asia. 
3. Mountain Man: This is our pick of the lot. Made by French cheesemaker Mathieu Megard in Victoria, Australia, this Reblochon-inspired cheese might just be the one that is closest to the real deal! 

Conclusion

Reblochon cheese is a testament to the rich history and artisanal traditions of the Haute-Savoie region. Its velvety texture, creamy flavour and captivating aroma make it a cherished component of French cuisine.  

Whether enjoyed on its own or as part of a sumptuous dish like Tartiflette, Reblochon invites you to savour the authentic flavours of the French Alps and experience a taste of history with every bite. 

So, if you’re ready to embark on a culinary adventure, Reblochon cheese is your passport to the heart of the Alps. 

Jonah Kincaid

Cheese lover. Scientist. Created a website and a Youtube channel about cheese science because he could not find answers to his questions online. 

cheesescientist.com

The post Reblochon Cheese: Haute-Savoie’s Cheesemaking Heritage appeared first on Cheese Scientist.

SEE ALSO: Where does butter sit in the vast landscape of dairy products? →

History of butter making in France

The history of butter making in France can be traced back centuries, where it evolved from a practical necessity to an art form. French farmers and artisans began churning cream to extract butter as early as the Middle Ages.  

Over time, the process was refined, with techniques passed down through generations, resulting in the exquisite butters we enjoy today. 

You can read more about how butter is made in our dedicated post here. 

Why is French butter so special?

French butter is often regarded as special due to several factors that contribute to its exceptional quality and taste. Here are some reasons why French butter is considered unique. 

1. Terroir: France has diverse geographical regions with varying climates, soils and vegetation. The cows graze on diverse pastures, consuming a varied diet that contributes to the flavour and quality of the milk, which in turn influences the butter’s taste. 
2. Traditional production methods: French butter is often made using traditional, artisanal techniques that have been passed down through generations. These methods prioritise careful craftsmanship, attention to detail and an emphasis on expressing the natural flavour and qualities of the milk. Presently, those traditional methods and geographical terroir are protected by the AOP. We’ll get back to that a little bit later. 
3. High fat content: French butter typically has a higher fat content compared to many other butters, often around 82% or more. The higher fat content contributes to its rich, creamy texture and enhances the flavour when used in cooking and baking. 
4. Appreciation for butter: In French cuisine, butter is celebrated as a key ingredient, valued for its ability to add depth, richness and a luxurious mouthfeel. Consequently, the cultural appreciation for butter has led to the development of high-quality butters with exceptional flavour profiles. 

These factors collectively contribute to the reputation of French butter as being special and sought after by chefs, bakers and food enthusiasts around the world. 

What is the AOP?

As we mentioned earlier, the terroir and tradition of French butter is protected by the AOP. But what does this mean? 

The Appellation d’Origine Protégée (AOP) is a prestigious designation awarded to products that are deeply rooted in their geographical origin, crafted using traditional methods and adhere to strict quality standards.  

It serves as a guarantee of authenticity and excellence, highlighting the unique characteristics of a product tied to its specific region. 

Types of products that are protected by the AOP

Presently, AOP protection extends to various products, including renowned cheeses like Roquefort and Parmigiano Reggiano. It also safeguards wines from Champagne, Bordeaux, Chianti and Rioja, ensuring adherence to traditional winemaking practices.  

Furthermore, cured meats such as Prosciutto di Parma, Jamón Ibérico and Bayonne Ham also bear AOP stamps of protection. Along with olive oils like France’s Vallée des Baux de Provence and Greece’s Kalamata. Certain fruits and vegetables like Périgord strawberries and Cévennes onions also receive AOP protection.  

Finally, the AOP designation also covers butter and creams such as Beurre de Bresse and Crème Fraîche d’Isigny. 

What are France’s 3 AOP butters?

So, let’s now take a closer look at France’s most protected butters. And discover what makes each one of them unique. 

Beurre d’Isigny

Brands: Isigny Ste Mère, Tribehou, Le Bouquet du Contentin 

The area covered by the Beurre d’Isigny AOP is in Normandy, which is known for its fertile soil and rich grass. Moreover, the milk used for this butter comes exclusively from the select area around Isigny-sur-Mer, collected in 175 communes from Le Cotentin and Le Bessin. 

At least 30% of the milk used comes from Normande cows, which graze for a minimum of seven months per year. The meandering rivers and accompanying spray in the surrounding marshland contribute to the unique quality of the meadows. The grass, rich in carotene, gives Isigny butter its legendary golden buttercup colour. 

To make Isigny butter, producers use another dairy product with an AOP stamp, Crème d’Isigny. Beurre d’Isigny is 100% natural, with the unsalted version containing at least 82% fat. Finally, no colouring, preservatives or artificial flavouring are added, maintaining its authenticity. 

The consistency of Isigny butter remains stable during cooking, making it highly sought after by top chefs. Due to its smooth texture and suppleness, this butter is perfect for pastry-making. 

Beurre de Bresse

Brands: Le Coq d’Or, Etrez, La Bressane 

Bresse is located in eastern France, primarily in the departments of Ain, Jura, and Saône-et-Loire. It is situated between the cities of Lyon and Dijon, encompassing a picturesque area known for its rolling countryside, farmland and charming villages. This region is home to the famous Poulet de Bresse as well as an AOP cream and butter. 

Undoubtedly, Crème de Bresse and Beurre de Bresse derive their reputation from the region’s remarkable biodiversity. The Bresse cows graze on a well-balanced diet consisting of grass, corn and cereal, all grown within the Bresse region. As a result, their milk has a high fat content, contributing to the exceptional quality of the region’s cream and butter. 

To this day, AOP Beurre de Bresse is churned using traditional methods, resulting in a tender texture that melts in the mouth. It offers grassy and floral flavours with subtle hints of dried fruit. The yellow colour, reminiscent of cowslip primroses, is attributed to the prairie flora in the region. 

Local chefs hail this historic butter for its capacity to stay firm when cooked. This makes it a preferred ingredient in local gourmet dishes as well as in pastries. 

Beurre Charentes-Poitou

Brands: Maison Lescure, Echiré, Grand Fermage, Sèvre et Belle 

This exceptional butter is made exclusively from milk cream sourced from the departments of Charente, Charente-Maritime, Deux Sèvres, Vienne and Vendée. The cream undergoes a unique organic maturing phase lasting over 16 hours, which brings out the distinct personality of Charentes-Poitou AOP butter.  

This traditional production method results in a fine and creamy texture with a special flavour, highlighted by subtle notes of hazelnut. Around the world, restaurant owners, bakers, pastry makers and food lovers all love this butter’s sensory qualities and unique texture.  

Without a doubt, Beurre Charentes-Poitou excels when spread on a warm crunchy baguette. But, of course, you can also cook delicious meals with it. 

FAQs about French AOP butter

Let’s wrap up with some of your most frequently asked questions about French AOP butter. 

How does AOP butter differ from regular butter?

AOP butter differs from regular butter as it is made using specific traditional methods within a defined geographical region. It showcases the unique characteristics of the region, such as the breed of cows, their diet, and the terroir, resulting in distinctive flavours and textures. 

Are French AOP butters made with raw milk?

Actually, all three of the AOP French butters are made using pasteurised or thermized cow’s milk. You can read more about the importance of raw milk in dairy products here. 

Can you buy French AOP butter in the USA?

Yes, French AOP butter can be found and purchased in the USA. Many specialty grocery stores, gourmet food stores, and online retailers offer a selection of imported French AOP butters.

Additionally, some local cheese shops or international food markets may carry these specialty butters. It’s worth exploring different stores or online platforms that specialize in imported or artisanal food products to find a variety of French AOP butter options. 

How can I identify authentic AOP butter in stores or markets?

Look for the AOP label or certification on the packaging. It ensures that the butter has met the strict criteria set for the specific AOP designation, guaranteeing its origin and quality. 

What do the labels Doux, Demi-Sel and Salé mean?

They are French words used to differentiate various types of butter based on their salt content. Doux (sweet) is unsalted, Demi-Sel (half-salted) contains between 0.5%-3% salt and Salé (salted) contains more than 3% salt. 

What does Beurre de Baratte mean?

“Beurre de baratte” is a French term that translates to “churned butter” in English. It refers to butter that is made using a traditional method of churning cream. 

As a matter of fact, the term “baratte” refers to a churn or churner, which is a device used to agitate cream or milk to separate the fat globules and create butter. 

Can AOP butter be used in both sweet and savoury recipes?

Yes, AOP butter is versatile and can be used in a wide range of recipes, both sweet and savoury. It adds richness, flavour and a creamy texture to dishes like pastries, sauces, baked goods, and even simple spreads on bread. 

Some examples of classic French pastries made using AOP butter include Kouign-Amann, Beignets au Beurre and Madeleines. 

On the other hand, French butter also excels in savoury dishes such as Pommes de Terre Rôties au Beurre and Velouté de Girolles. 

Summary: terroir and tradition

Without a doubt, French AOP butters are steeped in history and artisanal craftsmanship. And they offer a range of flavours and textures that elevate culinary creations to extraordinary heights.  

Indulge in the world of French AOP butters and let their flavours transport you to the picturesque landscapes of Normandy, Bresse and Charentes-Poitou. Elevate your dishes, delight your taste buds and immerse yourself in the rich heritage of French butter making. 

What’s your favourite French butter? And how do you like to serve it? Let me know in the comments below. 

Jonah Kincaid

Cheese lover. Scientist. Created a website and a Youtube channel about cheese science because he could not find answers to his questions online. 

cheesescientist.com

The post What Are France’s AOP Butters? (Famous Butter Brands) appeared first on Cheese Scientist.

SEE ALSO: The best goat breeds by yield for cheesemaking →

What ingredients you need to make cheese

Before we dive into the best cow breeds for cheesemaking, let’s review the basic ingredients needed to make cheese. To make cheese, you need milk (preferably raw), starter culture, a coagulant and salt.  

You can read more about each one of those ingredients in our comprehensive post on cheesemaking here. 

Choosing the right cow breed

As a matter of fact, the choice of cow breed can greatly impact the flavour, texture and quality of cheese. In France, farmers have carefully selected cow breeds over time for their ability to produce milk with specific characteristics. And some of those include protein content, fat content, flavour and texture.

Best French cow breeds for cheesemaking

Presently, the AOP requires specific cow breeds for 18 of the 28 cow’s milk AOP cheeses in France. Accordingly, there are nine different breeds  in the cahiers de charge for those cheeses. Let’s have a look at them in alphabetical order. 

Abondance

Firstly, Abondance cows originate from the Haute-Savoie region of the French Alps. It is a medium-sized breed, with a distinctive dark brown coat and a white face. Moreover, Abondance cows are known for their hardiness and adaptability to mountainous terrain. 

In terms of milk production, Abondance cows are moderate producers, yielding an average of 5500 kg per year¹. However, their milk is prized for its rich and creamy qualities, with high fat and protein content. Local cheesemakers primarily use this milk for the production of Abondance cheese.

Aubrac

Next, we have the Aubrac cow breed. Aubrac cows hail from the Aubrac plateau in southern France. They are a medium to large-sized breed, with a distinctive light-coloured coat and curved horns. Furthermore, Aubrac cows are hardy and well-adapted to the rugged terrain of their native region. 

As a matter of fact, Aubrac cows are low producers of milk, yielding an average of 3500 kg per year¹. However, cheesemakers favour this breed’s milk for its rich and creamy texture and high fat content. As a result, artisans in the Aubrac region predominantly use this milk for the production of artisanal cheeses such as Laguiole. 

Brune

Also known as Brown Swiss, the Brune cow breed originates from Switzerland. It is a large-sized breed, with a distinctive light brown to greyish-brown coat and a broad, angular body. In fact, Brune cows have a docile temperament and adapt very well to hot and dry conditions. 

Actually, Brune cows are the highest milk producers of all AOP breeds, yielding an average of 9000 kg per year¹. Their milk is highly valued for its high casein content. In France, cheesemakers use milk from this breed to make cheeses like Epoisses and Langres. 

Montbéliarde

The Montbéliarde cow breed originates from the Franche-Comté region of eastern France. It is a medium-sized breed, with a distinctive red and white coat. Featuring in a whopping 10 AOP cheeses, Montbéliarde milk is the most dominant cow breed in this landscape.

Montbéliarde cows are the second highest milk producers on our list, yielding an average of 8800 kg per year¹. Their milk has a high protein and fat content, making it suitable for cheesemaking. Consequently, Montbéliarde milk is in cheeses like Comté, Mont d’Or, Morbier and Reblochon. 

Normande

Next, we have one of France’s most famous cow breeds. Unsurprisingly, Normande cows originates from the Normandie region of France. However, this breed is believed to have descended from cows that the Vikings brought to northern France in their drakkars. 

It is a medium to large-sized breed, with a distinctive brown and white coat. Moreover, one distinct feature of this breed is the brown spots around their eyes.  

Normande cows are moderate to high producers of milk, yielding an average of 8100 kg per year¹. Their milk has an exceptional protein and fat profile. Thus, cheesemakers in Normandie use it to make the local AOP cheeses Camembert de Normandie, Livarot, Neufchâtel and Pont L’Évêque. 

Salers

Salers cows originate from the Massif Central region of France. This medium to large-sized breed has a distinctive mahogany-coloured coat and long, curved horns. Moreover, it has a signature gruff (bourru in French) coat which has led to its French nickname “La Bourette“. 

Salers cows are known for their ability to milk-feed two calves at a time. However, their milk production is the lowest on our list, clocking in at 2800 kg per year¹. Having said that, Salers milk has a unique creamy texture and rich flavour. While the AOP does not specify a breed for the Salers cheese, there is one subcategory called Tradition Salers that is exclusively made with this milk. 

Simmental Française

The Simmental Française cow breed, also known as the French Simmental, descends from the Swiss Simmental cows. Presently, the French subspecies calls Alsace, Franche-Comté, Bourgogne and Rhône-Alpes home. Simmental Française cows are a large-sized breed, with a distinctive red and white coat. 

Simmental Française cows produce a moderate to high amount of milk, averaging 7800 kg per year¹. Currently, cheesemakers use their milk in AOP cheeses like Bleu de Gex, Laguiole and Morbier. 

Tarentaise (Tarine)

Tarentaise cows hail from the Tarentaise Valley in the French Alps. It is a medium to large-sized breed, with a distinctive brown coat and a broad, lean body. As a matter of fact, this French breed is exceptionally well suited to extreme weather conditions. As a result, you will find them on pastures in the northern and southern Alps as well as the Massif Central. 

Compared to the other French cow breeds, Tarine cows yield a moderate amount of milk, averaging 5200 kg per year¹. Moreover, the gorgeous flavour and texture of their milk explains their presence in traditional mountain cheeses like Beaufort and Tome des Bauges. 

Villard de Lans (Villarde)

Finally, we have the Villarde cow. This breed finds its roots in the Vercors region in the French Alps. It is a medium-sized breed, with a distinctive beige coat and a sturdy, well-proportioned body. Undoubtedly, the locals favour Villard de Lans milk because of its high fat content. 

While their milk production is on the low side (3900 kg per year¹), the cheese yield is quite reasonable. And the AOP dictates that it is the only milk allowed in the production of the AOP cheese, Bleu du Vercors-Sassenage.  

What about the remaining AOP cheeses?

If you’ve followed us so far, you will have worked out that there are 10 cow’s milk AOP cheeses that do not have specified breeds. Some examples include Bleu d’Auvergne, Cantal, Munster and Saint-Nectaire. 

While the AOP do not mention specific breeds of cows in their cahiers de charge, they do require that cheesemakers use only local milk. What they mean by local milk is that the cows have to be born and raised within the specific area of production for the AOP cheese. 

Summary: Breed matters!

Without a doubt, choosing the right breed of cow is a crucial factor in determining the quality and characteristics of cheese. When it comes to French cows and the AOP, the most popular breeds are Abondance (5), Montbéliarde (10) and Simmental Française (7). 

Thank you for reading our post and we hope that you’ve taken something useful from the information. Are you considering making your own cow’s milk cheese? We’d love to hear from you in the comments below. 

Reference

¹ Résultats de Contrôle Laitier Espèce Bovine France 2020

Jonah Kincaid

Cheese lover. Scientist. Created a website and a Youtube channel about cheese science because he could not find answers to his questions online. 

cheesescientist.com

The post 9 Best French Cow Breeds for Cheesemaking (According to AOP) appeared first on Cheese Scientist.

SEE ALSO: Why Mont d’Or is considered to be the Holy Grail of Cheese →

What is Mont d’Or

Also known as Vacherin du Haut-Doubs, Mont d’Or is a seasonal soft washed rind cheese that is made above 700m in the Haut-Doubs region of France. Since 1996, the European Union’s AOP has been regulating its production and maturation. 

This historic cheese (early mentions date to the year 1280) is exclusively made from raw cow’s milk from the 15th of August to the 15th of March each year. 

The area of production

When the AOP uses the term “area of production”, they mean where the milk comes from, where the cheese is made and where it matures.  According to AOP specifications, the area of production for Mont d’Or is exclusively in the Haut-Doubs region of Bourgogne-Franche-Comté. Furthermore, the entire process takes place at a minimum altitude of 700 metres (2300 feet). 

Type of milk

The AOP dictates cheesemakers in the Haut-Doubs have to use raw unskimmed milk to make Mont d’Or. Moreover, they are not allowed to pasteurise or thermalise their milk in any way. And they have to start cheese production within 24 hours of milking. 

Breed

Further to the raw milk requirements, producers of Vacherin du Haut-Doubs use milk from two local breeds of cows, Montbéliarde and Simmental. Moreover, the farmers milk their dairy cows twice daily at fixed times. And the cheese production begins within 24 hours of milking. 

Feed

During summertime, the cows are entirely pasture-fed. However, during the winter months, the farmers feed their cows a very high-quality hay. As with everything else that surrounds this cheese, the hay comes from pastures above 700 metres of altitude.

In addition to this, the AOP regulates how much cereal (very little) and fermented silage (none) can be added.

Traditional production methods

As we mentioned earlier, production of Mont d’Or takes place annually between the 15th of August and the 15th of March inclusive. 

Handling of the milk

Once they receive the milk from a local farm, the cheesemaker can heat it only once up to 39°C. In fact, this takes place during the addition of calf rennet to bring about coagulation. 

Which ingredients can be added

Other than milk, makers of Vacherin du Haut-Doubs only use the following ingredients:

• Calf rennet 
• AOP specified starter cultures  
• Water 
• Salt (sodium chloride)

Cutting and hooping the curd

Once the curd is formed, the maker cuts it into hazelnut-sized pieces and hoops them into cylindrical moulds for pressing. 

Salting the cheese

After pressing, the young cheese is brined. Unsurprisingly, the AOP also has strict requirements for the salt water mixture that the cheeses are dipped in. Those specifications include pH levels, temperature (between 8°C and 14°C) and density. 

Wrapping in spruce bark

The final step of production involves wrapping the young cheese in a strip of spruce bark. The bark has to be stored in a dry environment and dampened with hot water (minimum 80°C) before being used. At some sites, this step takes place before brining. 

Maturation over 21 days

The entire maturation process has to take place at the same site where the cheese was made. This typically happens in cheese caves with strict temperature (maximum 15°C) and humidity (at least 92%) conditions. Moreover, the affineur has to mature all of their Mont d’Or on spruce (épicéa) planks that are washed and dried in between every batch of cheese. 

During maturation, they regularly brush and turn every cheese. For the brushing, they use either pure water or a weak brine (salt and water) solution.

Packaging for sale

At day 12, the affineur transfers each cheese into a small wooden box that is slightly smaller in diameter than the cheese. Because the cheese has to be squeezed in, it develops delicate ripples on its surface which are reminiscent of the mountain landscape of the Haut-Doubs. 

Overall, the ageing process lasts 21 days. 

Conclusion

Every year, Mont d’Or reaches retailers from the 10th of September. And its season extends to the 10th of May at latest. Actually, you can buy Mont d’Or in different sizes ranging from 480 g to 3.2 kg and it can only be cut at the time of sale. 

I hope that you enjoyed learning about how this historic cheese is made. Would you like to learn about more cheeses? Drop me your requests in the comments below. 

Jonah Kincaid

Cheese lover. Scientist. Created a website and a Youtube channel about cheese science because he could not find answers to his questions online. 

cheesescientist.com

The post How Mont d’Or Cheese Is Made appeared first on Cheese Scientist.

SEE ALSO: Why are some cheeses wrapped in spruce bark? → 

What is Mont d’Or?

Also known as Vacherin du Haut-Doubs, Mont d’Or is a seasonal soft washed rind cheese that is made above 700m in the Haut-Doubs region of France. Since 1996, it has been protected by an AOP stamp which regulates its production and maturation. This historic cheese (early mentions date to the year 1280) is exclusively made from raw cow’s milk from the 15th of August to the 15th of March each year. 

The story behind the name Vacherin du Haut-Doubs is indeed an interesting one. Back in the day, Vacherin was the cheese of vachers. And a vacher is someone who rears and/or herds cattle in the Jura mountains.

As for Mont d’Or, it is a reference to the eponymous mountain  in the Haut-Doubs region. Its name can be translated to Golden Mountain in English.

The history of Mont d’Or

Quite remarkably, the earliest mentions of this beautiful cheese date back to the late 13th century. While they don’t mention the cheese by name, records from those time describe a soft washed rind cheese that is wrapped in bark. Fast forward to the 18th century and Mont d’Or had made its way to King Louis XV’s table. 

Historically, the vachers would use their rich winter milk to make Mont d’Or. In the Jura mountains, cheesemakers almost exclusively use spring and summer milk for Comté production. In winter, the cows produce less milk and access to cheesemaking facilities was tricky because of the weather.

Hence, farmers started to make smaller cheeses for their own personal consumption during the festive season. Over time, the popularity of Mont d’Or has meant that its season has expanded to range from the 10th of September to the 10th of May (depending on stock levels). 

In 1981, Mont d’Or attained AOC status to protect its terroir, production methods and geographical origin. As the European Union formed, its stamp of protection expanded to include an AOP in 1996. 

Who makes Mont d’Or?

Presently, there are only 10 cheesemakers who make Mont d’Or. Some of the more famous ones are Fromagerie Badoz, Coopérative Fromagère de Doubs and Fromagerie du Mont d’Or Sancey-Richard. Among the 10 producers, only La Ferme Mamet make a farmhouse Mont d’Or on their own farm using the milk from their herd of cows. 

Between them, the 10 producers make about 5500 metric tonnes of cheese every year. And they source their milk from 400 local farmers. The AOP has strict animal welfare requirements in place. As a matter of fact, each dairy cow needs to have access to 1 hectare of pasture. 

How is Mont d’Or made?

As you can expect, there are very strict guidelines in place for the production of Mont d’Or. You can learn about the entire process by clicking here.

Raw cow’s milk

As always, it starts with the milk. The AOP dictates that Mont d’Or makers have to use raw whole cow’s milk. Moreover, the cheesemakers cannot heat treat their milk in any way and have to start cheese production within 24 hours of milking. 

Traditional production methods

Production of Mont d’Or gets under way with coagulation of the milk at 39°C and the addition of rennet. Once the curd is formed, the cheesemaker cuts it into hazelnut-sized pieces and hoops them into cylindrical moulds for pressing. 

Wrapped in spruce

After pressing, they remove the young cheese from its mould and wrap them in a spruce bark by hand. The spruce bark is an essential part of the identity of Mont d’Or and makes a significant contribution to the aroma and flavour of the cheese. 

Currently, a small number of sangliers produce the spruce bark wraps for Mont d’Or. The bark has an iconic pliable texture and a woody aroma. Overall, each Mont d’Or cheese spends a minimum of 21 days on spruce planks to mature. During this time, an affineur regularly brushes and turns them.  

How is Mont d’Or packaged?

From day 12, the cheesemaker transfers the cheese into a spruce box that is just a little bit smaller than the cheese itself. Because the cheese has to be squeezed in, it develops delicate ripples on its top surface which are reminiscent of the mountain landscape of the Haut-Doubs. 

Presently, there are only four manufacturers who make the box for Mont d’Or. They all use spruce bark from freshly cut trees. And they deliver the boxes promptly to the cheesemakers to preserve their woody aroma and texture. 

What does Mont d’Or taste like?

The end result is a soft cheese with a woody, earthy aroma. Overall, it has a full, rich, sweet and grassy flavour with a slightly acidic finish. Because of its unique aroma and flavour, Mont d’Or is one of the most sought-after cheeses in the entire world.

The locals eagerly await its release every year in September. And it brings in hordes of tourists to the Haut-Doubs region. 

How do the French serve Mont d’Or?

When ripe, Mont d’Or can be served at room temperature. The best way to enjoy this seasonal cheese is by cutting the rind off the top and dipping a wooden spoon into the oozy, creamy paste underneath. Then, you will want to generously spread your bounty on a warm, crunchy baguette. 

Having said that, you can also bake Mont d’Or in its original wooden box. Gently poke in some garlic shards and add a splash of local white wine before sticking it in the oven. Finally, you can serve this little piece of heaven with Jura ham, sausages and boiled potatoes. 

Mont d’Or FAQs

Is Mont d’Or available in the USA?

Because it is made with raw milk and matured for less than 4 weeks, Mont d’Or is banned in a number of countries around the world, including the USA and Australia. You can however get your hands on the pasteurised or thermalised versions. 

I thought Vacherin was a Swiss cheese

Indeed, there are two Swiss versions called Vacherin Mont d’Or and Vacherin Fribourgeois. The Swiss Vacherin Mont d’Or is made with thermalised milk. And Vacherin Fribourgeois is actually a very different type of cheese. To this day, the French and the Swiss still argue over who created Vacherin first! 

What cheeses are similar to Mont d’Or?

Other than the Swiss Vacherin, there are a number of wonderful bark-wrapped cheeses made in France and around the world. Another French example is Vacherin des Bauges which can be very tricky to source if you don’t live locally. 

Moreover, the USA’s Rush Creek Reserve and Harbison are fantastic renditions of this iconic cheese using raw milk and pasteurised milk respectively. In the UK, Rollright is worth a mention. And, in Australia, Long Paddock Cheese’s Driftwood. 

Can you eat the rind?

As is most often the case with cheese, you can eat the rind of Mont d’Or. In fact, I would urge you to! Having said that, I need to point out that you probably shouldn’t attempt to eat the spruce bark! 

How can I tell whether my Mont d’Or is ripe?

A great tip is to look at the rind. Its colour will start to darken and develop pink patches as the cheese ripens. You can also give the cheese a gentle push using your thumb. If the cheese is ripe and ready to be eaten, you should feel a bit of give. 

The bark is covered in mould. Is my cheese still safe to eat?

YES! It is very common for a white mould to grow all over the spruce bark around Mont d’Or. You can definitely still eat the cheese. But, as I mentioned above, do not try to eat the bark! 

Conclusion

I hope that you’ve enjoyed reading this post on Mont d’Or. I’m sure you can see now why it is called the Holy Grail of cheese. Without a doubt, its annual release to market on the 10th of September is one of the most anticipated events for cheese lovers.

Are you one of the lucky cheese lovers who has enjoyed the real deal? Let me know in the comments. 

Jonah Kincaid

Cheese lover. Scientist. Created a website and a Youtube channel about cheese science because he could not find answers to his questions online. 

cheesescientist.com

The post Mont d’Or: The Holy Grail of Cheese appeared first on Cheese Scientist.

What is the AOP?

The AOP (Appellation d’Origine Protégée) designation is a certification used across Europe to protect traditional products, including cheese, by ensuring they are produced in specific regions using time-honoured methods. It guarantees the product’s authenticity, linking it to its geographical origin and the cultural practices of its region.

The AOP system, part of the EU’s Protected Designation of Origin (PDO) framework, safeguards the quality and reputation of regional foods, ensuring that everything from milk sourcing to aging happens in the designated area.

While the name AOP is primarily used in France and Switzerland, other European countries have their own equivalents, such as DOP in Italy and Spain or g.U. in Germany and Austria. These certifications apply to iconic cheeses like Roquefort, Gruyère, Manchego and Parmigiano Reggiano, preserving their unique flavours and techniques.

By protecting these products, the AOP system supports local economies, promotes sustainable practices, and ensures that consumers can trust they are buying an authentic, high-quality product.

Now, that we’ve got the basics out of the way, let’s discover together the 46 AOP cheeses from France.

Auvergne-Rhône-Alpes

Our first stop offers diverse landscapes, from fertile valleys to high alpine meadows. Its terroir is defined by nutrient-rich volcanic soil, lush pastures and alpine herbs. Cows graze at high altitudes in summer, feeding on grasses that lend richness and depth to the region’s dairy products.

The cool, moist climate in the mountains and volcanic areas fosters complex, earthy flavours.

1. Abondance

Let’s start our journey with Abondance. This semi-hard raw cow’s milk cheese comes from the Abondance valley in Haute Savoie. It was granted an AOP stamp in 1996.

2. Banon

Cute little Banon is a soft, raw goat’s milk cheese that finds it roots in Alpes-de-Haute-Provence. In fact, it draws its name from a small eponymous village in between the Lure mountain and the famous Mont Ventoux.

3. Beaufort

On the other end of the size range, we find this colossal semi-hard cheese. Indeed, Beaufort is a very large (up to 70 kgs) raw cow’s milk semi-hard cheese that comes from Haute-Savoie.

4. Bleu d’Auvergne

The first blue cheese in our AOP list is Bleu d’Auvergne. This classic cow’s milk blue cheese is made in the Cantal, Puy-de-Dôme and Haute-Loire departments.

5. Bleu de Gex

Also known as Bleu de Septmoncel, Bleu de Gex is a raw cow’s milk blue cheese from the Monts du Jura. Unfortunately, it is banned in both the USA and Australia because of the raw milk.

6. Bleu du Vercors-Sassenage

Bleu de Vercors-Sassenage is a cow’s milk blue cheese that comes from the Massif du Vercors. Actually, its name is a combination of Vercors and Sassenage, which are two regions where it was traditionally made.

7. Cantal

Next we have Cantal. This popular hard cheese is made with cow’s milk in the Cantal department (surprise, surprise!). It is sold for consumption at 3 different ages: Cantal Jeune (at 2 months), Entre-Deux (2 to 7 months) and Vieux (at least 8 months).

8. Charolais

Charolais is a small round raw goat’s milk cheese from Saône-et-Loire. Since 2014, the AOP has protected the origin and production of this wrinkly beauty.

9. Chevrotin

Yet another cheese from Savoie! Chevrotin is a soft raw goat’s milk cheese that dates back to the 17th century. It is often referred to as the little cousin of the cheese we have in number 16.

10. Comté

This semi-hard classic from France-Comté might just be one of France’s most famous cheeses. Local artisans have been making 40 kg wheels of Comté in the region for generations.

11. Fourme d’Ambert

Fourme d’Ambert is one of France’s oldest blue cheeses. Artisans in Puy-de-Dôme, Cantal and Loire have been making this cheese using local cow’s milk for generations.

12. Fourme de Montbrison

Next, we find the second fourme on our list. Fourme de Montbrison is a cylindrical cow’s milk blue cheese that originates from the departments of Loire and Puys-de-Dôme.

13. Laguiole

Laguiole is a raw milk cow’s milk cheese from Aubrac. Weighing up to 50 kg, this AOP cheese’s name is a tricky one to pronounce. Now, repeat after me: “Lah-Yee-Oll”.

14. Morbier

The departments of Doubs and Jura are home to this famous raw milk semi-hard cheese with a line of ash. Effectively, local farmers have made Morbier in those regions for centuries.

15. Picodon

Small, soft and lactic, Picodon is the hidden gem of the l’Ardèche department. Moreover, you can enjoy this raw goat’s milk wonder classique or lavé (natural or washed rind).

16. Reblochon

We continue our list of AOP cheeses in Haute-Savoie. Meet Reblochon, the soft, mild washed rind made with local raw cow’s milk.

17. Rigotte de Condrieu

In Pilat, we find another raw goat’s milk cheese. With a name that simply rolls off your tongue, Rigotte de Condrieu is a soft, bloomy rind cheese that is matured for just over a week.

18. Saint-Nectaire

Number 18 on our list is Saint-Nectaire. Made with either pasteurised or raw milk, this washed rind cheese displays aromas of nectarines, fresh cream, hay and forest floor.

19. Salers

Meet Salers. Actually, this hard cheese is the second farmhouse cheese on our list that comes from the Cantal department. Local farmers make Salers using raw cow’s milk from April to November.

20. Tome des Bauges

Finally, our last AOP cheese from Auvergne-Rhône-Alpes is Tome des Bauges. Undoubtedly, this raw cow’s milk semi-hard cheese stands out thanks to its rustic natural rind.

Now, let’s visit Bourgogne-Franche-Comté. We can assure you that it won’t disappoint.

Bourgogne-Franche-Comté

Known for its rolling hills, vineyards and green valleys, this region benefits from a varied climate and soil. The mix of limestone-rich land and fertile pastures creates a smooth, balanced taste in dairy. Cold winters and warm summers allow for dairy to develop rich textures, while traditional ageing caves add unique, often earthy undertones.

21. Brie de Meaux

Without a doubt, Brie is one of the most famous and popular soft cheeses from all around the world. But, did you know that the AOP only recognises 2 cheeses as Brie? Brie de Meaux dates back to the 8th century and is made exclusively with raw cow’s milk.

22. Brie de Melun

And you’ve guessed it! Brie de Melun is the second Brie that is protected by an AOP stamp. Also made with raw cow’s milk, this soft, bloomy rind cheese gets its name from the township of Melun in Seine-et-Marne.

23. Chaource

Next on our list is yet another soft cheese named after the town where it was first made. Indeed, Chaource is a cow’s milk cheese that comes from an eponymous town in the department of l’Aube.

24. Crottin de Chavignol

Number 24 on our list might just have the best name of them all. Crottin de Chavignol is a soft goat’s milk cheese and its name is a combination of crottin (local artisanal cheese mould) and Chavignol (the village near Sancerre where it was first made).

We are now past halfway on this long list of French AOP cheeses. Keep reading after the break as we wrap up Bourgogne-Franche-Comté and head into the Centre-Val de Loire region.

25. Epoisses

Epoisses de Bourgogne is one of France’s most notorious washed rind cheeses. Indeed, this soft cheese washed in Marc de Bourgogne has such a robust aroma that it has been banned on the Métro in Paris!

26. Langres

Made in the Champagne region, Langres is a cute little orange soft cheese with a wrinkly rind. Perhaps, this cheese is best known for its pairing with Champagne. Indeed, you can pour a splash of bubbly into the “fountain” at the top and let it seep through the cheese.

27. Mâconnais

Mâconnais is a small format raw goat’s milk soft cheese that comes from the Sâone-et-Loire department. Unsurprisingly, it gets its name from its town of origin, Mâcon.

28. Mont d’Or

Mont d’Or might just be the Holy Grail of seasonal cheeses. Find its roots in the Haut-Doubs, this raw cow’s milk surface-ripened cheese is celebrated all around the world for its unique flavour and texture.

29. Munster

Since the 9th century, farmers in the Vosges Mountains have been making this robust little washed rind. Actually, the locals also know this cow’s milk classic as Munster Géromé. The name comes from the townships of Munster and Gérardmer.

And this wraps up the AOP cheeses from Bourgogne-Franche-Comté. Next, we visit Centre-Val de Loire.

Centre-Val de Loire

The Loire Valley, with its mild, balanced climate and riverside pastures, nurtures tender grasses and wild herbs. This combination lends a subtle, vegetal flavour to local dairy. The region’s terroir, marked by chalky, mineral-rich soil, is especially suited to goat grazing, leading to a mild, smooth flavour profile with slight minerality.

30. Pouligny Saint Pierre

Now, this part of France is famous for its goat’s milk cheeses. And this gorgeous white pyramid is a great place to start. Pouligny Saint Pierre comes from the Indre department and, you’ve guessed it, gets its name from the eponymous commune.

31. Sainte Maure de Touraine

Goat’s cheeses come in many shapes. Quite possibly, Sainte Maure de Touraine is the most famous log-shaped goat’s milk cheese from the Indre-et-Loire department. And, yes, that is a straw that you can see running through the cheese.

32. Selles-sur-Cher

To round up the shapes of goat’s cheeses (see what I did there?), we’ve got Selles-sur-Cher. This round ash coated raw milk soft cheese comes from the Loir-et-Cher department.

33. Valençay

At number 33, we find our final cheese from Centre-Val de Loire, Valençay. This iconic goat’s milk cheese is instantly recognisable due to its pyramid shape and ash coated wrinkly rind.

Corse

Corsica’s rugged, mountainous terrain and Mediterranean climate create a robust terroir with intense, herbal notes. Steep hillsides and abundant wild herbs like thyme and rosemary influence the flavour of local dairy. The island’s winds, combined with warm, dry summers and mild winters, give Corsican cheeses a distinct wildness and aromatic complexity.

34. Brocciu

Let’s make a quick stop by the island of Corse for our first fresh cheese on the AOP list. As a matter of fact, Brocciu is a white, creamy and mousse-like rindless cheese that Corsicans make with raw ewe’s milk.

Hauts-de-France

This northern region features cool, damp weather, rolling plains and fertile pastures enriched by the region’s proximity to the sea. The damp climate supports the growth of unique microbial flora, giving local dairy products an intense, often pungent quality. Its clay-rich soil and hearty grasses also contribute to the strong flavours and robust character of the dairy.

35. Maroilles

As we head towards northern France, we discover this unique square shaped washed rind. Indeed, Maroilles finds its roots in the departments of Nord and l’Aisne. Furthermore, its gets its name from the village of Maroilles where it was first made.

Normandy

With its moist, maritime climate, Normandy enjoys some of the richest pastures in France. High humidity and mild temperatures create lush grazing lands that produce sweet, creamy milk. The region’s proximity to the sea brings in salty breezes that subtly influence the flavours, creating a terroir that yields dairy with a soft, buttery richness.

36. Camembert de Normandie

Hello Normandie! This region in northern France is home to some of France’s most famous AOP cheeses. And none of them are more celebrated than Camembert de Normandie. This raw milk soft cheese dates back to the 18th century and is famous all around the world.

37. Livarot

Also known as Le Colonel, Livarot is an iconic washed rind cheese from Calvados in the Pays d’Auge. It is instantly recognisable thanks to the 3-5 straps of sedge that are wrapped around the cheese.

38. Neufchâtel

This most romantic of soft cheeses is actually Normandie’s oldest cheese. Local folklore has it that this raw cow’s milk cheese was made into a heart shape by local young women to give foreign soldiers has a token of their affection.

39. Pont l’Évêque

Our final AOP cheese from Normandie is Pont l’Évêque. This brick shaped washed rind cheese is made from cow’s milk and might just be the strongest smelling cheese on our list.

Nouvelle-Aquitaine

Spanning Atlantic coastlines, river valleys and mountains, this southwestern region offers diverse landscapes. Pastures here range from lowland grasses to high-altitude grazing land, allowing dairy to develop layers of flavour. The region’s moderate climate and mix of Mediterranean and Atlantic influences create rich, well-balanced milk with nutty and grassy undertones.

40. Chabichou du Poitou

As we arrive in Nouvelle-Aquitaine, we find what is very likely the cheese with the most adorable name of all the 46 AOP cheeses from France. Chabichou du Poitou is a raw goat’s milk cheese that is made in a bonde shape in the Vienne and Deux-Sèvres departments.

We’ve only got 6 AOP cheeses to go but they are absolutely worth it!

41. Ossau Iraty

Number 41 is the Pride of the French Pays Basque. Actually, Ossau Iraty is the first sheep’s milk cheese on our list of the 46 AOP cheeses from France. There is one more to come, you may have heard of it before.

Ossau Iraty is a traditional pressed uncooked cheese that rinds its roots in the French Pays-Basque. It draws its name from the Ossau Valley and Irati forest where it was first made.

42. Rocamadour

Delicate, small and round, Rocamadour is a raw goat’s milk soft cheese that comes from the Lot department. Its iconic thin rind and 6cm diameter have made it a local favourite.

Occitanie

Occitanie’s varied terroir, from Mediterranean coast to Pyrenean foothills, supports a mix of lowland and mountain pastures. The hot, dry summers and cool winters shape the milk’s bold flavours, often with herbal and floral notes from wild grasses. The local limestone-rich soil contributes to the mineral character, lending unique nuances to the dairy produced here.

43. Bleu des Causses

Bleu des Causses is a traditional blue cheese from the Massif Central and tablelands of the Causses. Also known as Bleu d’Aveyron, it is made with either raw or pasteurised cow’s milk.

44. Pélardon

Our last soft cheese on the list of 46 AOP cheeses from France is Pélardon. Locals in the Languedoc region also know this small 60 g cheese as Paraldon, Pélardou and Péraudou.

45. Roquefort

We’re almost at the end of our list and number 45 brings us the King of Cheeses, Roquefort. Undoubtedly, this raw sheep’s milk blue cheese from Aveyron is one of France’s most popular exports.

Provence-Alpes-Côte d’Azur

This sunny region in southern France combines rugged mountains, Mediterranean coastlines, and herb-laden fields. The Mediterranean climate creates warm, dry conditions ideal for rich, aromatic milk. Grazing animals feed on a range of local herbs like lavender, thyme, and rosemary, which infuse the dairy with distinct Provençal notes of earthiness and aromatic intensity.

46. Brousse du Rove

Congratulations! You’ve made it to the final cheese on our list of the 46 AOP cheeses from France.

The final entry is also the most recent one. Indeed, Brousse du Rove is a fresh farmhouse goat’s milk cheese from Provence that received an AOP stamp in May 2021.

Conclusion

We hope that you enjoyed our list of the 46 AOP cheeses from France. Which one is your favourite? Drop us a comment below.

Jonah Kincaid

Cheese lover. Scientist. Created a website and a Youtube channel about cheese science because he could not find answers to his questions online. 

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