Among the most intriguing (and misunderstood) labels are the terms fermier and fruitier. They sit quietly on the packaging, whispering clues about heritage, scale, milk, and method. Most people skim straight past them. But you? You’re here to decode the delicious mystery.

Let’s dig into what they mean, why they matter, and how these two traditions shape the flavours of France’s greatest cheeses.

What fermier actually means

The word fermier translates loosely to “farmstead”. Think small-scale. Think boots in the mud. Think cheesemakers with names, not production lines.

A cheese labelled fermier in France must be:

• Made on the same farm where the animals are raised
• Produced exclusively from that farm’s own milk
• Crafted in relatively small batches, often by a single cheesemaker or a tiny team

This is cheese as agriculture, not manufacturing. It’s grounded in land, weather, grass, feed, and the personalities of the cows, goats, or sheep who supply the milk.

Because of this, fermier cheeses tend to be:

• More variable from batch to batch
• More expressive of local microflora
• More rustic in shape and rind
• Often more aromatic
• Rich in micro-terroir

A farmstead cheese is basically a love letter to its postcode.

What fruitier means (and why the name is misleading)

Now let’s talk fruitier. No, it doesn’t mean fruity. And no, it has nothing to do with actual fruit. Blame medieval terminology for that one.

A fruitière is a communal dairy. Farmers in a region deliver milk to a central creamery where one cheesemaker or team transforms it into cheese. You’ll find this most famously in Alpine regions such as the Jura, Savoie, and Haute-Savoie.

A fruitier cheese will:

• Combine milk from multiple farms
• Use standardised methods for consistency
• Be crafted in larger batches
• Follow AOP rules with near-religious precision

The fruitier model exists because some cheeses require more milk than one farm can produce. A giant wheel of Comté, for example, needs roughly 530 litres of milk. Unless your cows have ambitions in bodybuilding, you’re pooling that milk.

Fruitier cheeses tend to be:

• More consistent
• Technically precise
• Cleaner in profile
• Less variable across seasons
• Accessible in larger volumes

In short, fruitier production is artisanal, but with the scale needed for iconic Alpine cheeses to exist.

The origins of the name fruitière

The word fruitière confuses many people because it seems tied to fruit. In reality, it comes from the old French word “fruit”, meaning the collective produce of a community.

In medieval Alpine villages, farmers often had only a few cows each. Not enough to make a large, cooked-curd mountain cheese on their own. But when they pooled their milk, the village suddenly had enough “fruit” to craft enormous wheels of Comté, Beaufort, and Abondance.

This shared endeavour created la fruitière – the communal dairy where milk was collected, transformed, and matured. It was a practical survival method in harsh mountain regions, but also a symbol of cooperation.

Over time:

• Fruit = a community’s collective produce
• Fruitière = the building where that produce was transformed
• Fruitier = the cheesemaker or the cheese made in this communal model

So when you see fruitier on a label, you’re seeing the living legacy of a centuries-old Alpine cooperative tradition.

Another term you may see: laitier

While we’re sorting out vocabulary, there’s another term worth recognising: laitier. You may see it on labels alongside or instead of fruitier.

A fromage laitier is:

• Made in a dairy, not on a farm
• Crafted from pooled milk from multiple farms
• Produced following standardised dairy practices

In other words:

• Fermier = one farm, one herd, one cheesemaker
• Fruitier = a communal, often Alpine-style dairy following traditional co-op rules
• Laitier = any cheese made in a dairy from milk sourced from several farms, whether or not it’s part of a formal cooperative

Think of fruitier as the romantic, mountain-born term, while laitier is the broader, more practical classification.

The terroir difference

Terroir is the French word for “the land expresses itself in the flavour”. It’s also the source of many spirited debates at dinner tables.

Here’s the core difference:

Fermier cheeses express micro-terroir. One pasture. One herd. One microbial ecosystem. It’s the flavour of a single landscape.

Fruitier (and laitier) cheeses express regional terroir. The milk represents an entire valley or plateau. You taste the region, not the field.

Both are valid expressions of place. Both are delicious in their own way.

Cheese as agriculture vs cheese as craftsmanship

At its heart, this comparison is a philosophical one.

Fermier cheese is agriculture. It’s the raw, immediate translation of farm life into flavour.

Fruitier cheese is craftsmanship. It’s the skill of shaping pooled milk into something refined and reliable.

One isn’t inherently better. They simply tell different stories.

Examples of fermier excellence

• Reblochon Fermier: Easily spotted by its green casein stamp. Farmstead Reblochon is richer, funkier, creamier, and absolutely radiant in melted dishes.
• Tomme Fermière: Each farm brings its own character. Soft, firm, grassy, earthy, occasionally blueing at the rind—the variation is the joy.
• Farmhouse goat cheeses: From Crottin to Valençay, fermier versions have deeper caprine aroma, brighter acidity, and more complex rinds.

Examples of fruitier mastery

• Comté: The superstar of communal dairies. Its consistency and depth come from the precision of fruitières and the skill of Jura affineurs.
• Beaufort: A colossal Alpine cheese shaped by co-op organisation, strict AOP rules, and centuries of mountain tradition.
• Abondance: Commonly fruitier, though a few fermier versions remain. The co-op style delivers stable, elegant wheels.
• Gruyère (Swiss reference): Not French, but follows a similar communal model. A reminder that big mountain cheeses are cooperative by necessity.

Why fermier cheeses taste so different

Fermier and fruitier cheeses can taste worlds apart, even within the same AOP.

1. Milk microbiology

One farm = unique microbial signature.
Pooled milk = blended stability.

2. Feed variation

Daily and seasonal changes influence fermier milk.
Pooling smooths the edges.

3. Scale of production

Smaller vats behave differently. Heat moves differently. Acidification shifts.

4. Raw milk expression

Raw milk in fermier cheese showcases unique terroir.

5. Human touch

The cheesemaker’s intuition matters. In fruitiers, consistency matters.

Why fruitier cheeses taste so different

1. Precision: Everything is measured, controlled, repeated.
2. Specialist expertise: Cheesemakers and affineurs in fruitières are dedicated professionals.
3. Ageing consistency: Wheels mature in highly controlled environments.
4. Milk blending: Blending creates reliable fat-to-protein ratios and predictable flavour development.

Which one is better?

The dangerous question.

Fermier is better if you want rustic, expressive, seasonal, terroir-driven cheese.
Fruitier is better if you want refined, balanced, consistent cheese.

It’s not a ranking. It’s a matter of taste.

How to choose the right style for your cheese board

For rustic charm

Choose fermier. Expect stronger aromas and big personality.

For elegance and universality

Choose fruitier. Clean, balanced, reliable.

For learning

Serve them side-by-side. Try Reblochon fermier vs fruitier, tomme vs tomme, or Abondance fruitier vs fermier (good luck finding it).

What this means for cheesemakers today

The two models protect the diversity of French cheesemaking.

Fermier preserves tradition, biodiversity, and small agricultural livelihoods.
Fruitier preserves large-format cheeses, regional identity, and economic stability.

Both must thrive for French cheese to thrive.

Why the terminology matters for cheese lovers

Understanding these labels transforms the cheese shop into a storybook. You’re not just choosing flavours—you’re choosing philosophies.

Fermier is a single voice.
Fruitier (and laitier) is a choir.

A final bite from Jonah

Next time you’re holding a wheel, a wedge, or a tiny wrapped round of French cheese, look for those words. Fermier. Fruitier. Laitier. They’re tiny doorways into the history of French dairying.

Both styles deserve a place in your fridge. Both deserve curiosity. Both deserve a generous slice on your next cheese board.

And if someone asks you about the difference? Smile, and tell them it’s simple: Fermier tastes like one farm. Fruitier tastes like a village. Laitier tastes like the region.

If you enjoyed this deep dive into French cheesemaking traditions, subscribe to my email list for more cheese science, cheese stories, and weekly flavour adventures delivered straight to your inbox.

Jonah Kincaid

Cheese lover. Scientist. Created a website and a Youtube channel about cheese science because he could not find answers to his questions online. 

cheesescientist.com

The post Fermier vs Fruitier: the French Cheese Rivalry You’ve Never Heard Of appeared first on Cheese Scientist.

You could eat Brie in July. You could nibble Comté in April. But some cheeses taste best when the days are short, the air is biting, and you eat them by a fire with wool socks and unreasonable amounts of enthusiasm.

Today, we’re diving into the seasonality of cheese. Why winter changes flavour. Why certain styles shine right now. And the five French cheeses that become showstoppers in December.

Let’s get into it.

Why cheese has a season

Cheese isn’t timeless. It has moods. The milk shifts from season to season. Cows eat differently. Sheep and goats follow lactation cycles. Temperature and humidity impact ageing. Microbes behave like grumpy toddlers when the weather flips.

In winter, things get interesting.

• Cows move from fresh pasture to hay.
• Milk becomes fattier and slightly sweeter.
• Cheeses made earlier in the year hit perfect maturity.
• Certain styles—especially soft, gooey, washed-rind beauties—are designed to peak now.

If summer is for crisp goats’ cheeses and light alpine styles, December belongs to the rich, the oozy, the aromatic, and the complex.

So here are the five French cheeses that truly reach their full potential in December.

1. Mont d’Or

Mont d’Or is the king of winter cheeses. Or queen. Or ruling cosmic entity. It doesn’t matter. What matters is this: it only exists because of winter.

Mont d’Or was created for the cold. Historically, when the snowy Jura Alps made it impossible to transport huge wheels of Comté down the mountain, cheesemakers switched to smaller, soft-ripened wheels. These became Mont d’Or—wrapped in spruce bark and ripened in little boxes like edible Christmas gifts.

December is peak season because the cheese has rested just long enough after its late-autumn production. The paste becomes molten under the rind. The spruce band perfumes every spoonful with a foresty, resinous glow. You can eat it cold with a spoon. Better yet, bake it with garlic, white wine, and a scandalous amount of bread.

Why it’s best in December:

• Production begins after August.
• Wheels ripen for 2–3 months.
• They hit peak ooze right before Christmas.
• The smoky spruce becomes more intense in the cold.

It’s the cheese equivalent of sitting by a fire under a blanket. If you serve only one cheese this month, make it this one.

2. Comté (24–36 months)

Comté is available year-round, but winter Comté is special. December is when long-aged wheels reach a point where caramel sweetness meets roasted hazelnut depth. It hits a beautiful tension between buttery warmth and alpine sharpness (not using sharp as a flavour note, per your preference—this is about focus and clarity rather than sharpness).

The magic starts in the summer. Cows graze on alpine pasture. The flora is diverse. The milk is perfumed. Wheels made from this milk then age through autumn and reach their prime in December.

You don’t need to go for the oldest wheels. In fact, 24–36 month wheels offer the best balance. You get tyrosine crystals (the delicious crunchy bits), deep butterscotch flavour, and enough fruity brightness to wake your taste buds up from their winter sleep.

Why it’s best in December:

• Summer milk + long ageing = winter peak.
• Nutty, caramel characters intensify as temperatures drop.
• The texture becomes firm yet creamy, ideal for winter snacking.

Serve with roasted nuts, Comice pears, or a simple baguette. It’s perfection.

3. Mont d’Or’s cheeky cousin: Époisses

Époisses is a December legend. Washed in Marc de Bourgogne and boasting a rind that smells like the lovechild of a bakery and a barn, Époisses is one of France’s proudest aromatic creations.

Époisses feels different in winter. The cold air slows the breakdown of the rind, which allows the interior to soften in a slower, more even way. The paste becomes custardy. The aroma deepens into warm funk rather than aggressive ammonia. This is when Époisses is at its gentlest, most refined, and most elegant.

People often fear Époisses. December Époisses is the friendliest introduction.

Why it’s best in December:

• Cooler temperatures produce cleaner, creamier ripening.
• The rind develops more savoury notes.
• The cheese becomes less volatile and more balanced.

Pair with roasted garlic, rye bread, or simple potatoes. Just don’t try to hide the aroma. Let it be itself. That’s where the joy lives.

4. Brie de Meaux (properly ripe)

Brie de Meaux is a cheese that depends deeply on milk composition. In December, cow’s milk tends to have higher fat and protein content thanks to hay-based diets. This winter milk makes Brie richer, silkier, and more deeply mushroomy.

Brie de Meaux loves long, slow maturation. Knifed open in December, the paste has that perfect “slouch” that Brie fans crave. The aroma brings notes of Chardonnay, forest mushrooms, and fresh cream. The rind is thin, white, and velvety. No grey spots. No bitterness. Just charm.

December Brie has a generosity that spring Brie lacks. It’s fuller. Warmer. More buttery. When you spread it on a baguette and it folds into your fingers? That’s peak-season magic.

Why it’s best in December:

• Winter milk = richer curd.
• Slow ripening produces a gooier, more complex paste.
• Cool weather prevents the rind from overripening.

Serve it at room temperature. Leave it out for at least an hour. Brie hates being shy.

5. Roquefort (winter ripening)

Roquefort is technically evergreen. It’s made throughout the year. But December Roquefort—ripened through the cooler months in the limestone caves of Combalou—is something else entirely.

In winter, the humidity and temperature inside the caves become the perfect stage for Penicillium roqueforti to work at a slower, more nuanced pace. The result is a cheese with:

• Richer butteriness
• Deeper minerality
• A more balanced blue character
• A creamier finish with less aggressive salt

December Roquefort is smooth, complex, and hauntingly savoury. The blue veins become almost spicy. The fat melts instantly on the tongue. And the aromas are more hazelnut and caramel than the metallic punch some Roquefort shows in the heat of summer.

Why it’s best in December:

• Cold-season ripening = smooth and balanced blueing.
• The cave environment stabilises.
• The cheese becomes creamier and less brittle.

Serve with walnuts, honey, or slices of fresh pear. If you want to create a Christmas cheeseboard that will make people emotional, put Roquefort on it.

Bonus round: three other French cheeses that shine in winter

Not part of our top five, but honourable mentions for the curious.

• Saint-Nectaire: A semi-soft cheese from the Auvergne that reaches peak aromatic complexity in winter. Think warm straw, earth, and toasted nuts.
• Reblochon: At its best when the cold fridge doesn’t over-ripen it. December wheels are creamy, nutty, and perfect for tartiflette.
• Fourme d’Ambert: A milder blue that becomes extra velvety in winter. Great for guests who love blue cheese but don’t want the intensity of Roquefort.

How to build the perfect December French cheeseboard

A December cheeseboard should feel indulgent but balanced. Here’s a layout I swear by.

• Soft and gooey – Mont d’Or or Époisses: Serve warm, room temperature, or baked.
• Bloomy and buttery – Brie de Meaux: Slice into wedges so the centre is exposed.
• Alpine and firm – Comté (24–36 months): Let the flavour crystals be the star.
• Blue and bold – Roquefort: Pair with honey or dried figs.

Accompaniments

• Roasted nuts
• Slices of Comice pear
• Dried apricots
• Cornichons
• Crusty bread and neutral crackers
• A small dish of wildflower honey

Keep it simple. No over-curation. These cheeses do the heavy lifting.

The science of why winter cheese tastes richer

A quick nerdy detour, because I can’t help myself.

When cows shift from pasture to hay, the milk composition changes. Winter milk often has:

• Higher fat percentage
• Richer beta-carotene content
• Slightly lower water content
• More consistent protein

Cheesemakers love this milk. It sets firmer curds. It ages beautifully. And for long-aged cheeses like Comté or Roquefort, that winter composition enhances everything from texture to aroma.

Microbial behaviour also slows in winter. That means:

• Less ammonia in bloomy rinds
• More controlled breakdown in washed rinds
• More stable blue mould development
• Smoother, creamier textures

It’s not magic. It’s biochemistry with a Christmas jumper on.

Final thoughts: December is the month French cheese was made for

Cheese tastes different in winter. Not worse. Not better. Just different.

But some French cheeses reach a point in December that feels almost intentional, as if the universe scheduled them to mature just in time for the darkest days of the year.

If you pick up Mont d’Or, Comté, Époisses, Brie de Meaux, or Roquefort this month, you’ll experience each one at its most expressive, most generous, and most festive.

And if anyone asks why you’re eating so much cheese this month, just tell them it’s seasonal. It’s artisanal. It’s cultural. And, honestly, it’s science.

Jonah Kincaid

Cheese lover. Scientist. Created a website and a Youtube channel about cheese science because he could not find answers to his questions online. 

cheesescientist.com

The post Top 5 French Cheeses for December (& Why They Taste Better in Winter) appeared first on Cheese Scientist.

SEE ALSO: The complete list of France’s most protected AOP cheeses →

What type of cheese is Ossau-Iraty?

Ossau-Iraty is a semi-hard, traditional French cheese crafted from pure sheep’s milk. Hailing from the picturesque regions of the French Pays Basque and Béarn, this cheese is celebrated for its rich, nutty flavour profile, which is delicately balanced with buttery and slightly sweet undertones.

The texture is smooth and creamy, offering a satisfying mouthfeel that complements its complex taste. Typically aged for at least 80 days, Ossau-Iraty develops a natural rind and a distinctive aroma that evokes the pastoral landscapes where it is produced.

Where does Ossau-Iraty come from?

According to the AOP, the production area for Ossau-Iraty is in France’s Pays Basque and Béarn regions. This picturesque region in the Pyrenées is near the border with Spain.

Due to its geographic location and climate, it has been a prized region for agriculture since the neolithic times. Moreover, the amount of rain and minerals in the soil produce a fresh grass in the plains that is well suited to sheep.

Actually, the cheese gets its name from the Ossau valley and Irati forest. Let’s take a closer look at those regions.

The Ossau Valley

The Ossau Valley, located in the Pyrénées-Atlantiques department in southwestern France, is a stunning natural landscape known for its picturesque beauty and rich cultural heritage.

It is part of the French Pyrenées, with the Ossau River running through it. Because it is surrounded by dramatic mountain peaks, lush forests, and verdant pastures, it has become a paradise for nature lovers and outdoor enthusiasts.

The valley is dotted with charming villages such as Laruns, Eaux-Bonnes, and Gourette, each offering a glimpse into traditional Pyrenean life with their stone houses, narrow streets, and vibrant local markets.

Without a doubt, the Ossau Valley has a vibrant cultural heritage, with traditional music, dance, and festivals playing a significant role in community life. The local cuisine, featuring products like the Ossau-Iraty cheese, reflects the valley’s pastoral traditions and agricultural bounty.

Interestingly, farmers in the Ossau Valley tend to make wheels of cheese that weight around 4 kg (8.5 lbs).

The Irati forest

On the other hand, the Irati Forest, located in the western Pyrenées along the border between France and Spain, is one of the largest and best-preserved beech and fir forests in Europe.

The forest spans over 17,000 hectares, covering parts of the Navarre region in Spain and the Pyrénées-Atlantiques department in France. It is characterized by dense woodlands, verdant meadows, and winding rivers, creating a pristine natural environment.

Irati Forest boasts rich biodiversity, home to a wide variety of flora and fauna. Its old-growth beech and fir trees provide habitat for numerous species, including deer, wild boar, and the endangered Pyrenean desman. The forest is also a haven for birdwatchers, with many raptors and forest birds inhabiting the area.

The Irati Forest is steeped in local folklore and history. It is dotted with ancient dolmens and megaliths, evidence of early human settlements. The nearby village of Ochagavía is known for its well-preserved traditional architecture and serves as a gateway to the forest.

Traditionally, cheesemakers in this region made a semi-hard cheese called Ardi. It is typically on the smaller side weighing in at around 2.2 kg (5 lbs).

In fact, the modern Ossau-Iraty cheese is a blend of those two regions’ traditions. Consequently, the wheels come in both sizes.

What milk is used to make Ossau-Iraty cheese?

Also, the AOP specifies that Ossau-Iraty can only be made from the milk of three breeds of sheep. Namely, the Red-Faced Manech, Black-Faced Manech and Basco-Béarnaise.

Those three breeds are particularly well adapted to the terroir of the region and thrive in humid cool conditions. Moreover, the farmers can only feed them grass and non genetically modified cereals. Whilst they tend to yield less milk than other sheep, they are better adapted to the climate and the practice of transhumance.

What is transhumance?

In order to preserve the grass on their property for the winter months, the majority of farmers follow the traditional practice of transhumance. From May in the Pays Basque and June in Béarne, the herders move their sheep to summer pastures at higher altitude.

Actually, they will spend all of summer and the beginning of autumn feeding on this high altitude grass. As a result of this, the grass at lower altitudes can replenish in time for late autumn. The milk collected during those months is used to make the celebrated summer cheeses called Ossau-Iraty d’Estive. 

Come the end of autumn, the herd will return to lower grounds and start to lamb. Overall, this process is very important for the sheep, the farmers and the natural eco-system of the mountain. 

How to make Ossau-Iraty

The traditional recipe for this semi-hard cheese has remained largely untouched over the millenia. Raw whole ewe’s milk is mixed with culture and rennet. Once the curd is formed, it is cut and drained.

Afterwards, the cheesemaker heats the curd to separate from whey and then transfer the solids to the cheese moulds. Finally, the moulds are pressed and drained. At this point, the cheese has attained its signature form. Subsequently, the wheels are salted and then passed on to the affineur for maturation.

How Ossau-Iraty is matured

The AOP specifies that Ossau-Iraty wheels have to be matured for a minimum of 80 days for the smaller format and 120 days for the larger one. At this point, the cheese will have a fat content of 50% and a gorgeous natural rind.

There is one point of difference between the 2 regions of production though. In Pays Basque, the wheels are matured in dry caves whereas in Béarn, they tend to be very humid. Moreover, the affineur in Pays Basque regularly brushes the cheese with a dry brush whereas, in Béarn, they wipe the wheels with a cloth imbibed in brine.

Those differences in practice lead to slightly different textures, aromas and flavours for the cheeses coming from each location. Overall, this process will last from 80 days to 12 months in some cases.

What Ossau-Iraty tastes like

This semi-hard beauty from the Pyrenees has a hay-coloured patchy rind and a pristine ivory pâte. Its aroma is surprisingly buttery and sweet with a touch of barnyard.

On the palate, you will detect notes of toasted wheat, roasted nuts, fresh grass and wildflowers. As the cheese ages, its creamy texture starts to become firm and calcium crystals start to appear. The flavour also tends to be more savoury.

How to serve Ossau-Iraty

Ossau-Iraty can be enjoyed in various ways. This is how the Basque traditionally enjoy it:

1. Plain and Simple: In the Basque Country, Ossau-Iraty is often enjoyed thinly sliced on its own to fully appreciate its unique flavour.
2. With Itxassou Cherry Jam: A traditional Basque accompaniment is black cherry jam (confiture de cerises noires). The sweetness of the jam complements the nutty and slightly tangy taste of the cheese.
3. With Bread: Serve Ossau-Iraty with rustic bread, such as a crusty baguette or country loaf. The simplicity of the bread enhances the cheese’s flavour.
4. Txakoli Wine: Pairing Ossau-Iraty with a glass of Txakoli, a slightly sparkling white wine from the Basque region, is a classic choice. The wine’s acidity balances the richness of the cheese.

Conclusion

As you can see, Ossau-Iraty is a true gem of the Basque and Béarn regions, embodying centuries of artisanal tradition and natural splendour. Its rich, nutty flavour and creamy texture make it a versatile addition to any cheese board, culinary dish or simple snack.

Whether enjoyed on its own, paired with sweet cherry jam, or savoured with a glass of Txakoli, Ossau-Iraty offers a delightful taste of Basque pastoral heritage.

What’s your favourite way to enjoy this Basque wonder? Let me know in the comments below.

Jonah Kincaid

Cheese lover. Scientist. Created a website and a Youtube channel about cheese science because he could not find answers to his questions online. 

cheesescientist.com

The post Ossau-Iraty: Pride of the French Pays Basque (Tasting & Serving) appeared first on Cheese Scientist.

SEE ALSO: The Cheese Scientist’s ultimate guide to goat cheeses →

History of goat cheese in France

The tradition of goat cheese making in France can be traced back centuries. From ancient times, goats were well-suited to the country’s diverse terrains, thriving in the rocky hillsides, mountains and lush pastures.  

Farmers, recognizing the value of goat’s milk, began crafting cheeses as a means of preserving and utilising this precious resource. Over time, this practice evolved into a cherished art form, where local knowledge and time-honoured techniques passed down through generations shaped the character of these remarkable cheeses. 

Goat cheese regions in France

France’s goat cheesemaking prowess is closely tied to specific regions that possess favourable conditions for raising goats and producing exceptional milk. Several key areas have emerged as the backbone of goat cheese production. 

• Auvergne-Rhône-Alpes: Known for its diverse landscape and traditional cheesemaking techniques, Auvergne-Rhône-Alpes produces a variety of goat cheeses, including the famous Picodon, with its distinct flavour and creamy texture. 
• Bourgogne-France-Comté: This region is renowned for its goat cheeses such as Charolais, made from raw goat’s milk, and Mâconnais. 
• Centre-Val de Loire: With its rich agricultural heritage, Centre-Val de Loire is home to renowned goat cheeses like Valençay, known for its unique truncated pyramid shape and an ash-coated rind. 
• Nouvelle-Aquitaine: As one of the largest regions in France, Nouvelle-Aquitaine covers the historical region of Poitou-Charentes which is a hub of goat cheesemaking. 
• Occitanie: This region offers a variety of goat cheeses, such as the tiny Rocamadour and Pélardon, known for its delicate taste and crumbly texture. 
• Provence-Alpes-Côte d’Azur: Known for its Mediterranean climate, this region produces two AOP goat cheeses, Banon and Brousse du Rove. 

Each region brings its own distinct flavour profiles and traditions, resulting in a captivating tapestry of tastes that exemplify the diversity of France’s goat cheeses. 

France’s 15 best goat cheeses

While there are countless versions of artisanal goat cheeses made around the country, we want to focus on the 15 French goat cheeses that bear an AOP stamp. You can read more about how the AOP protects cheese and other foods in our post here.

Let’s have a look at France’s AOP goat cheese in alphabetical order. 

Banon (Provence-Alpes-Côte d’Azur)

The first cheese on our list is undoubtedly one of the most aesthetic ones. Banon is a small round cheese, featuring a creamy or golden-brown rind. Weighing around 100 g, this cheese has a soft and creamy texture. And its mild flavour is elevated by the infusion of tannins from chestnut leaves used to wrap it.  

Made from raw whole milk, Banon cheese undergoes a minimum ageing period of 20 days, resulting in a delightful culinary experience. You can read more about why raw milk is so important in cheesemaking in our dedicated post.

Without a doubt, Banon excels on a cheese board with green olives and a glass of a local fruity white wine. 

Brousse du Rove (Provence-Alpes-Côte d’Azur)

Next, we have Brousse du Rove. This fresh rindless cheese has a creamy and crumbly white paste. Its texture is light and moist, and its taste mild and neutral, allowing secondary flavours to shine.  

Made from raw milk and a touch of white alcohol vinegar, it is stirred until curdling occurs. This cheese does not require any ageing, making it a delightful choice for immediate enjoyment. Moreover, Brousse du Rove has the double distinction of being France’s most recent AOP cheese and the only unsalted one! 

Traditionally enjoyed as a dessert with a sprinkle of sugar, Brousse also pairs well with honey, maple syrup and fresh fruits like strawberries. You can also add this fresh unsalted cheese to savoury recipes such as omelettes and pair it with cooked artichokes, tomatoes and beets. 

Chabichou du Poitou (Nouvelle-Aquitaine)

This cheese might just have the cutest name of them all! Chabichou du Poitou is a visually striking cheese, shaped like a slightly bulging cylinder with a wrinkly Geotrichum rind. Its texture is a delightful balance between a creamy, melt-in-your-mouth consistency and a dry, brittle texture when cut.

The cheese offers a range of flavours, from the fragrance of fresh cream to the earthy essence of autumn undergrowth, creating a harmonious and nuanced taste experience. After a minimum ageing period of 10 days, the cheese is ready to be enjoyed, showcasing the dedication and craftsmanship involved in its production. 

The locals enjoy this iconic cheese with roasted chestnuts, caramelised onions or even in a hearty curry. 

Charolais (Bourgogne-Franche-Comté)

Our next goat cheese is Charolais. This traditional cheese has a barrel shape and a white downy rind that evolves into a blue hue. It has a soft, tender and creamy white paste, offering a delightful texture. The taste of Charolais cheese starts with a mild aroma when fresh, which intensifies and becomes more assertive with age, creating a range of flavours to enjoy.  

Made from raw milk, it undergoes a short maturation period and is carefully moulded, salted and aged to perfection on racks. With a minimum ageing duration of 2 weeks, Charolais cheese is a true delight for cheese enthusiasts seeking a unique and flavourful experience. 

This versatile goat cheese can be enjoyed in a fresh rocket (arugula) salad or melted on grilled cèpes mushrooms.  

Chavignol (Centre-Val de Loire)

Chavignol is another cylindrical goat cheese with rounded edges. It features a natural, thin and bloomy rind, adding to its aesthetic appeal. The texture of Chavignol varies from the rind to its centre. As a result, its mouthfeel ranges from creamy and melting (near the rind) to dry and chalky (in the core).

When it comes to taste, Chavignol delivers a delightful sensory journey, with its aroma varying from the scent of fresh cream to the earthy undertones reminiscent of autumn forests. Crafted from raw milk, this cheese undergoes a minimum ageing period of 10 days, allowing its flavours to develop and mature into a truly remarkable culinary delight. 

Some great serving suggestions for Chavignol include toasting on a baguette, pairing with fresh grapes and spread on gingerbread. 

Chevrotin (Auvergne-Rhône-Alpes)

Often described as a goat milk Reblochon, Chevrotin has a flat round shape and a washed rind that ranges in colour from pink to orange. Its texture is creamy, smooth and soft, crafting a delightful mouthfeel.  

The taste of Chevrotin starts subtly and develops into a more distinct and characteristic flavour as it ages. It is exclusively handmade on farms using raw milk and undergoes a minimum ageing period of 3 weeks.  

Just like Reblochon, Chevrotin excels when melted in Tartiflette, a grilled cheese sandwich or on top of your favourite pasta. 

Mâconnais (Bourgogne-Franche-Comté)

Our second cheese from Bourgogne-Franche-Comté is Mâconnais. This small cheese weighs 50 g and has a conical shape with a soft and creamy paste. Overall, it offers a slightly savoury flavour that evolves and intensifies with maturation, providing a diverse range of taste sensations.  

Crafted using traditional methods, Mâconnais is exclusively a farmhouse cheese. You can read more about farmhouse cheeses in our dedicated post here. Its compact size and delightful flavour make Mâconnais a true delight for cheese enthusiasts seeking a unique and enjoyable culinary experience. 

This small AOP cheese can be served grated on top of pumpkin soup or fresh in a forest berry salad. 

Pélardon (Occitanie)

Next, we venture into Occitanie to discover Pélardon. This goat cheese has a flat cylindrical shape with a thin, wrinkly rind. On the surface, you will find hues of cream, pale yellow, white and blue. Underneath, it has an ivory-white paste and a delightful taste with a subtle hint of hazelnut. 

Made from fresh raw milk, Pélardon undergoes a minimum ageing period of 11 days, resulting in a unique and enjoyable cheese experience for cheese enthusiasts. As it matures, the flavour becomes more pronounced without sacrificing its finesse. 

Unsurprisingly, this cheese is complex enough to be enjoyed fresh on a cheese board with a slice of pickled lemon. Also, it pairs well with medium-bodied red wines or dry ciders. 

Picodon (Auvergne-Rhône-Alpes)

And we’re back in Auvergne-Rhône-Alpes to discover Picodon. This small, rounded soft goat cheese has a natural rind and a firm paste. As it ages, its texture becomes crumblier and its flavour more pronounced. 

Picodon requires a minimum ageing period of 12 days to fully develop its unique organoleptic properties. With its rich, nutty flavour and crumbly texture, this cheese has become a regional favourite.  

You can enjoy it fresh with sliced zucchini (courgette) and black olives or melted on a focaccia. In addition to this, Picodon pairs well with fruity red wines or robust beers. 

Pouligny-Saint-Pierre (Centre-Val de Loire)

The first pyramid-shaped cheese on our list is Pouligny-Saint-Pierre. Actually, this was the first French goat cheese to earn an AOC stamp (precursor to the AOP) in 1972. Made from raw whole milk, the cheese undergoes a minimum ageing period of two weeks.  

This iconic French goat cheese has a bloomy white rind with blue mould patches. Furthermore, it has a firm yet supple texture and offers a wide range of flavours, from delicate to pronounced, with hints of hazelnut.  

Without a doubt, this goat cheese is best served fresh on a cheese platter. Pair it with smoked salmon or a lavender honey. And pour yourself a glass of a crisp white wine or fruity red. 

Rigotte de Condrieu (Auvergne-Rhône-Alpes)

The next two cheeses on our list are the joined smallest AOP cheeses in France. Weighing in at 35 g, Rigotte de Condrieu is a flat cylindrical cheese with an irregular ivory rind. Made from raw goat’s milk, it has a soft and melting texture that reveals delicate flavours of hazelnut.  

Produced through lactic coagulation, this cheese undergoes a minimum ageing period of around 10 days, allowing it to develop its unique taste profile. Rigotte de Condrieu is a delightful cheese choice for those who appreciate the creamy texture and subtle, nutty flavours of goat’s milk cheese. 

You can serve this tiny goat cheese fresh on a cheese platter or sliced in a sandwich. In addition to this, it is a great choice for Chèvre Chaud, a classic French warm goat cheese salad. 

Rocamadour (Occitanie)

Also weighing in at 35 g, we have Occitanie’s second AOP goat cheese, Rocamadour. This tiny goat cheese is a flat disc with a white, ivory or dark beige rind. It has a soft and creamy texture, delivering a distinctive goat flavour.  

Made from raw whole milk, the cheese undergoes a lactose coagulation process before ageing in a ripening cellar or cave. According to the AOP, maturation lasts for a minimum of 6 days to develop its unique taste and qualities. 

Similarly to Rigotte de Condrieu, this small goat cheese is the perfect ingredient for a Chèvre Chaud. In addition to this, Rocamadour is an excellent butter substitute on a warm crunchy baguette. 

Sainte Maure de Touraine (Centre-Val de Loire)

Named after its place of origin, Sainte Maure de Touraine is log-shaped and features a wrinkly natural rind. And it is traditionally adorned with a rye straw bearing the printed designation name as a symbol of its authenticity. This straw not only helps maintain the delicate shape of the cheese but also prevents it from breaking. 

After ageing for 10 days, the ash-covered surface of Sainte Maure de Touraine develops a wrinkly appearance, adorned with grey and blue mould. The interior showcases a thin creamy layer adjacent to the rind, while the centre remains firm and strikingly white. 

This gorgeous goat log will look spectacular on a cheese board. Having said that, you can also slice it and melt on top of grilled seasonal mushrooms. Wash it all down with a Sauvignon Blanc or light red wine. 

Selles-sur-Cher (Centre-Val de Loire)

Another ashed cheese on our list is Selles-sur-Cher. Originally crafted for family consumption, the roots of this cheese can be traced back to the 19th century when it was named after its main production and commercial hub, Selles-sur-Cher. 

Made from whole goat’s milk, this cheese is coated in a distinctive layer of ash. The minimum maturation period for Selles-sur-Cher is 10 days. At this age, the cheese develops a thin, powdery grey rind and a bright white, dense and slightly moist paste. 

Selles-sur-Cher is at its best during spring, and you will augment its flavour and texture by pairing with green peas and spinach. Some other options include roasted peanuts, apple jam and dried nuts. 

Valençay (Centre-Val de Loire)

Finally, we’ve got the fifth cheese from Centre-Val de Loire and second truncated pyramid cheese on our list. Valençay features a fine and bloomy rind in shades of light grey to bluish grey. It has a soft, white, and smooth paste, offering a long and creamy taste with hints of undergrowth, hazelnut and floral nuances.  

Made from raw milk, the cheese undergoes a 24 to 36-hour coagulation process, followed by salting with ash-covered salt. It requires a minimum ageing period of 7 days to develop its distinctive flavours and characteristics. 

Given the cheese’s aesthetic and complex flavour, it would be sinful to do anything other than serve it on a cheese platter. As for pairings, go for fresh pear or pear juice, lavender honey or piquillo chilli jam. 

Beyond the AOP (notable mentions)

While France only has 15 AOP goat cheeses, there are many more iconic French cheeses made with goat milk. A few that are worth a mention include: 

• Cabécou: small format soft cheese (40 g) that originates from the Périgord region. 
• Mothais Sur Feuille: soft white mould goat cheese from Poitou-Charentes that is wrapped in a chestnut leaf. 
• Persillé de Rambouillet: goat’s milk blue cheese originating from a small farm in the Ile-de-France region of France. 
• Tomme de Chèvre: mountain cheese from Savoie that is reminiscent of the iconic Tomme de Savoie 

Summary: A goat cheese heritage

France’s 15 AOP goat cheeses are a testament to the country’s rich cheesemaking heritage and diverse landscapes. As you embark on your culinary journey through these exquisite cheeses, don’t hesitate to explore the suggested pairings and experiment with different flavours.  

Whether you’re a seasoned cheese connoisseur or a curious food lover, let the flavours of France’s AOP goat cheeses transport you to a world of gastronomic delights. 

What’s your favourite French goat cheese? Let us know in the comments below.

Jonah Kincaid

Cheese lover. Scientist. Created a website and a Youtube channel about cheese science because he could not find answers to his questions online. 

cheesescientist.com

The post 15 Best Goat Cheeses from France (Protected By AOP Stamps) appeared first on Cheese Scientist.

SEE ALSO: The best goat breeds by yield for cheesemaking →

What ingredients you need to make cheese

Before we dive into the best cow breeds for cheesemaking, let’s review the basic ingredients needed to make cheese. To make cheese, you need milk (preferably raw), starter culture, a coagulant and salt.  

You can read more about each one of those ingredients in our comprehensive post on cheesemaking here. 

Choosing the right cow breed

As a matter of fact, the choice of cow breed can greatly impact the flavour, texture and quality of cheese. In France, farmers have carefully selected cow breeds over time for their ability to produce milk with specific characteristics. And some of those include protein content, fat content, flavour and texture.

Best French cow breeds for cheesemaking

Presently, the AOP requires specific cow breeds for 18 of the 28 cow’s milk AOP cheeses in France. Accordingly, there are nine different breeds  in the cahiers de charge for those cheeses. Let’s have a look at them in alphabetical order. 

Abondance

Firstly, Abondance cows originate from the Haute-Savoie region of the French Alps. It is a medium-sized breed, with a distinctive dark brown coat and a white face. Moreover, Abondance cows are known for their hardiness and adaptability to mountainous terrain. 

In terms of milk production, Abondance cows are moderate producers, yielding an average of 5500 kg per year¹. However, their milk is prized for its rich and creamy qualities, with high fat and protein content. Local cheesemakers primarily use this milk for the production of Abondance cheese.

Aubrac

Next, we have the Aubrac cow breed. Aubrac cows hail from the Aubrac plateau in southern France. They are a medium to large-sized breed, with a distinctive light-coloured coat and curved horns. Furthermore, Aubrac cows are hardy and well-adapted to the rugged terrain of their native region. 

As a matter of fact, Aubrac cows are low producers of milk, yielding an average of 3500 kg per year¹. However, cheesemakers favour this breed’s milk for its rich and creamy texture and high fat content. As a result, artisans in the Aubrac region predominantly use this milk for the production of artisanal cheeses such as Laguiole. 

Brune

Also known as Brown Swiss, the Brune cow breed originates from Switzerland. It is a large-sized breed, with a distinctive light brown to greyish-brown coat and a broad, angular body. In fact, Brune cows have a docile temperament and adapt very well to hot and dry conditions. 

Actually, Brune cows are the highest milk producers of all AOP breeds, yielding an average of 9000 kg per year¹. Their milk is highly valued for its high casein content. In France, cheesemakers use milk from this breed to make cheeses like Epoisses and Langres. 

Montbéliarde

The Montbéliarde cow breed originates from the Franche-Comté region of eastern France. It is a medium-sized breed, with a distinctive red and white coat. Featuring in a whopping 10 AOP cheeses, Montbéliarde milk is the most dominant cow breed in this landscape.

Montbéliarde cows are the second highest milk producers on our list, yielding an average of 8800 kg per year¹. Their milk has a high protein and fat content, making it suitable for cheesemaking. Consequently, Montbéliarde milk is in cheeses like Comté, Mont d’Or, Morbier and Reblochon. 

Normande

Next, we have one of France’s most famous cow breeds. Unsurprisingly, Normande cows originates from the Normandie region of France. However, this breed is believed to have descended from cows that the Vikings brought to northern France in their drakkars. 

It is a medium to large-sized breed, with a distinctive brown and white coat. Moreover, one distinct feature of this breed is the brown spots around their eyes.  

Normande cows are moderate to high producers of milk, yielding an average of 8100 kg per year¹. Their milk has an exceptional protein and fat profile. Thus, cheesemakers in Normandie use it to make the local AOP cheeses Camembert de Normandie, Livarot, Neufchâtel and Pont L’Évêque. 

Salers

Salers cows originate from the Massif Central region of France. This medium to large-sized breed has a distinctive mahogany-coloured coat and long, curved horns. Moreover, it has a signature gruff (bourru in French) coat which has led to its French nickname “La Bourette“. 

Salers cows are known for their ability to milk-feed two calves at a time. However, their milk production is the lowest on our list, clocking in at 2800 kg per year¹. Having said that, Salers milk has a unique creamy texture and rich flavour. While the AOP does not specify a breed for the Salers cheese, there is one subcategory called Tradition Salers that is exclusively made with this milk. 

Simmental Française

The Simmental Française cow breed, also known as the French Simmental, descends from the Swiss Simmental cows. Presently, the French subspecies calls Alsace, Franche-Comté, Bourgogne and Rhône-Alpes home. Simmental Française cows are a large-sized breed, with a distinctive red and white coat. 

Simmental Française cows produce a moderate to high amount of milk, averaging 7800 kg per year¹. Currently, cheesemakers use their milk in AOP cheeses like Bleu de Gex, Laguiole and Morbier. 

Tarentaise (Tarine)

Tarentaise cows hail from the Tarentaise Valley in the French Alps. It is a medium to large-sized breed, with a distinctive brown coat and a broad, lean body. As a matter of fact, this French breed is exceptionally well suited to extreme weather conditions. As a result, you will find them on pastures in the northern and southern Alps as well as the Massif Central. 

Compared to the other French cow breeds, Tarine cows yield a moderate amount of milk, averaging 5200 kg per year¹. Moreover, the gorgeous flavour and texture of their milk explains their presence in traditional mountain cheeses like Beaufort and Tome des Bauges. 

Villard de Lans (Villarde)

Finally, we have the Villarde cow. This breed finds its roots in the Vercors region in the French Alps. It is a medium-sized breed, with a distinctive beige coat and a sturdy, well-proportioned body. Undoubtedly, the locals favour Villard de Lans milk because of its high fat content. 

While their milk production is on the low side (3900 kg per year¹), the cheese yield is quite reasonable. And the AOP dictates that it is the only milk allowed in the production of the AOP cheese, Bleu du Vercors-Sassenage.  

What about the remaining AOP cheeses?

If you’ve followed us so far, you will have worked out that there are 10 cow’s milk AOP cheeses that do not have specified breeds. Some examples include Bleu d’Auvergne, Cantal, Munster and Saint-Nectaire. 

While the AOP do not mention specific breeds of cows in their cahiers de charge, they do require that cheesemakers use only local milk. What they mean by local milk is that the cows have to be born and raised within the specific area of production for the AOP cheese. 

Summary: Breed matters!

Without a doubt, choosing the right breed of cow is a crucial factor in determining the quality and characteristics of cheese. When it comes to French cows and the AOP, the most popular breeds are Abondance (5), Montbéliarde (10) and Simmental Française (7). 

Thank you for reading our post and we hope that you’ve taken something useful from the information. Are you considering making your own cow’s milk cheese? We’d love to hear from you in the comments below. 

Reference

¹ Résultats de Contrôle Laitier Espèce Bovine France 2020

Jonah Kincaid

Cheese lover. Scientist. Created a website and a Youtube channel about cheese science because he could not find answers to his questions online. 

cheesescientist.com

The post 9 Best French Cow Breeds for Cheesemaking (According to AOP) appeared first on Cheese Scientist.

SEE ALSO: The complete guide to washed rind cheeses with examples from around the world → 

What is a washed rind cheese?

The term “washed rind” can describe any cheese that has been washed with a liquid mixture during maturation. After the cheesemaker has formed their cheese, they moisten the outside (rind) with a damp cloth or a brush. This process takes place at different intervals depending on the cheese and can vary from twice daily to once a week.  

Overall, this process changes the conditions on the surface on the cheese to favour the growth of different types of bacteria. And those bacteria play a significant role in shaping the characteristics of the final cheese. 

Why are washed rind cheeses so smelly?

Recent research has shown that the main species of bacteria that proliferate on the rind of washed cheeses is actually Brevibacterium aurantiacum.

B. aurantiacum is a subspecies of B. linens and thrives in a salty, moist and low acidity environment. And that is exactly what washed rind cheeses provide. Furthermore, the bacterium produces carotenoids that create the brick red/orange tinge on the cheese’s rind.

And it also makes a significant contribution to their unique aroma and flavour. You can read more about methionine, the colourless gas that is responsible for this unique smell by clicking here. 

So, now that we’ve got the technical bits out of the way, let’s dive into our list of the smelliest washed rind cheeses from France. We’ve sorted them in alphabetical order. 

1. Affidélice

We start our journey in Bourgogne with Affidélice. This small soft washed rind cheese is washed with a mixture containing brine and Chablis wine during maturation. As a result, it develops a gorgeous sticky orange rind. 

Under the rind you will find a soft ivory-coloured paste with a chalky centre. Overall, the cheese’s aroma is quite robust with notes of barnyard and farmhouse. However, the flavour is not as pronounced as you might expect. Look out for a savoury and slightly meaty taste. 

2. Claosou

Next, we have an oval shaped cheese that is wrapped in spruce bark, Claosou. What’s not to love about this artisanal cheese? This beautiful raw sheep’s milk cheese originates from Occitanie and is aged for up to three weeks. During this time, an affineur brushes each little cheese with a brine mixture. 

Claosou develops a delicate cream-coloured rind and an oozy white paste. Its aroma is one of the mildest on this list with a certain woody quality. On the palate, Claosou tastes very sheepy with a touch of damp forest floor. 

3. Coeur d’Arras

While we’re on the topic of unusual shaped cheeses, let’s talk about Coeur d’Arras. This gorgeous (romantic?) heart-shaped washed rind comes from Arras in Hauts-de-France. And a fun fact about this cheese is that the locals developed it for the annual Rat Festival. 

Overall, this cheese has a very strong aroma that is reminiscent of dirty socks. You will find that this is a common trait for a lot of the cheeses on this list. Its flavour is surprisingly sweet and mild though with a resemblance to another cheese that is still to come on our list, Maroilles. 

4. Epoisses

Without a doubt, Epoisses is France’s most famous washed rind cheese. This cow’s milk cheese finds its roots in Bourgogne at the start of the 16th century. And it gets its name from the village of Epoisses where a local community of Cistercian monks first developed its recipe.

To this day, cheesemakers wash wheels of Epoisses in Marc de Bourgogne during maturation. 

Such is this cheese’s potent aroma that there is an urban legend going around France and the rest of the world that the local authorities banned it on the metro. But, once again, its flavour is surprisingly mild and complex. You can expect a range of flavours from savoury to meaty via spicy. 

5. Grès des Vosges

Our second oval-shaped cheese is Alsace’s Grès des Vosges. Adorned with a fern leaf, this unique washed rind cheese is washed in a Kirsch solution during maturation. As a result, it develops a sticky, orange rind. 

The aroma of Grès des Vosges is fairly comparable to Epoisses with a certain yeasty quality. On the other hand, its flavour is very different with notes of garlic, mushroom and cultured milk. 

6. Langres

Made in the Champagne region, Langres is a cute little orange soft cheese with a wrinkly rind. During its ageing process, an affineur regularly washes it in a brine and annatto solution but never turns the cheese. Because of this, it grows a bright orange rind and forms a signature fontaine on top of the cheese. 

Langres has a moderate yeasty aroma but delicate flavours of beef broth and bacon. Perhaps, this cheese is best known for its pairing with Champagne. Indeed, you can pour a splash of bubbly into the “fountain” at the top and let it seep through the cheese. 

7. Livarot

At number 7, we find our first cheese from Normandie. Actually, the locals affectionately call this cheese “Le Colonel” because of the sedge strips that are traditionally wrapped around it. This soft washed rind cheese comes from the Calvados department and is regularly washed in a salt, culture and annatto mixture during maturation. 

At 21 days, Livarot develops a soft paste under its potent rind. Overall, its flavour is savoury and fresh, with floral notes of straw, hay, animal and smoke. 

8. Maroilles

As we mentioned earlier, Maroilles is another soft washed rind cheese from Hauts-de-France. Also known as Marolles, this square-shaped cheese originates from the abbey of Sainte-Humbert de Maroilles in the 18th century. To this day, the largely unchanged recipe requires cave-ageing and washing with a brine and culture solution. 

Maroilles’s bright orange rind packs quite a punch on the aroma side. Your nose will detect damp cave, forest floor, wet brick and ammonia. And its flavour shows notes of hazelnut and sour milk. 

9. Mont d’Or

Also known as Vacherin du Haut-Doubs, Mont d’Or is a seasonal soft washed rind cheese that is made above 700m in the Haut-Doubs region of France.  During production, the cheesemakers wrap this cheese in a spruce bark and mature each cheese for a minimum of 21 days.

In that time, they regularly turn and brush the young cheese in a proprietary mixture. The end result is a soft cheese with a woody, earthy aroma.

Overall, it has a full, rich, sweet and grassy flavour with a slightly acidic finish. Because of its unique aroma and flavour, Mont d’Or is one of the most sought-after cheeses in the entire world. 

10. Munster

Our second cheese from Alsace is also the region’s most famous one, Munster. Munster is a washed rind cheese that is made in the Vosges mountains in eastern France. The locals call it simply Munster or Munster Géromé. 

Because it is washed in a brine mixture for 21 days, Munster develops a bright orange sticky rind and a very potent aroma. Your nose will detect notes of yeast and ammonia. Moreover, Munster has a rich, savoury and slightly tangy flavour. Its organoleptic characteristics make this washed rind one of the most robust ones from France. 

11. Pavé de Calais

And we’re in Hauts-de-France again to find the aptly named Pavé de Calais. Indeed, this brick shaped cheese (formerly known as Brique des Flandres) is a creation of the Bernard brothers in Pas-de-Calais.

Due to its bright orange colour and brick shape, Pavé de Calais looks like the bricks used in the construction of most homes in the north of France. 

Made with cow’s milk, Pavé de Calais has a bright yellow paste that softens beautifully as it ages. Overall, its aroma is very pronounced with hints of yeast and ammonia. And its flavour matches its aroma. Look out for brothy and meaty notes. 

12. Pont L’Évêque

Next, we have a second cheese from Normandie, Pont L’Évêque. Actually, this historical cheese dates back to the 13th century when it was known as d’Angelot. Over time, it has evolved with slight modifications to the recipe and shape. Nowadays, it takes its current name from the small town of Pont-L’Evêque. 

When young, this soft cheese is quite similar to Camembert. However, during the maturation process, the affineur regularly washes each wheel in brine for up to six weeks. As a result, a white-orange edible rind forms around the pâte and imparts a full-bodied aroma and flavour.

Once ripe, this AOP cheese will have a soft fudgy centre and a rich creamy finish. Both the flavour and aroma palette are reminiscent of the Normandie countryside. 

13. Soumaintrain

Soumaintrain is a soft washed rind cheese made in Bourgogne, France. During maturation, the cheesemakers wash each little wheel of Soumaintrain in a secret brine mixture. As a result, the bacterium Brevibacterium aurantiacum proliferates on the surface and imports a gorgeous pink hue to the wrinkly rind.

Unlike other soft washed rind cheeses such as Epoisses and Maroilles, Soumaintrain is actually quite mild in aroma and flavour. Look out for those delicate floral notes in the aroma, and a subtle sweetness in the flavour.

14. Trou du Cru

Without a doubt, Trou du Cru is the smallest cheese on our list. Indeed, this orange soft washed rind cheese weighs in at 60 g (2 ounces) and is actually one of the world’s most expensive cheeses by weight.

Initially developed by Berthaut as a small format Epoisses, Trou du Cru is now recognised as an exceptional cheese in its own right. 

Just like Epoisses, Trou du Cru is washed in Marc de Bourgogne and aged on straw mats to prevent its rind from sticking. Surprisingly, the cheese’s flavour is much milder than its yeasty aroma. On the palate, you can expect savoury and floral notes with a straw-like, boozy quality. 

15. Vieux Boulogne

Have we left the best for last or what!? Unlike all of the washed rind cheeses on our list, Vieux Boulogne is washed in beer during ageing. This square-shaped cheese originates from Boulogne-sur-Mer in the Hauts-de-France.

After extensive lab testing by Dr Stephen White and his UK team in 2004, Vieux Boulogne was officially designated as the world’s smelliest cheese!  

Due to the beer wash, Vieux Boulogne develops a reddish-orange sticky rind and a soft, elastic paste. Indeed, its aroma is spectacular with pronounced notes of mushroom, yeast and onions. As for its flavour, it is yeasty, malty, brothy and savoury. 

Summary

Thank you for reading our post on the smelliest washed rind cheeses from France. Unsurprisingly, the French are masters at making soft washed rind cheeses and most of the cheeses on our list are available around the world.  

So, what’s your favourite French washed rind cheese? Let me know in the comments.

Jonah Kincaid

Cheese lover. Scientist. Created a website and a Youtube channel about cheese science because he could not find answers to his questions online. 

cheesescientist.com

The post 15 Smelliest Washed Rind Cheeses From France appeared first on Cheese Scientist.

SEE ALSO: The art of assembling the perfect cheese board for any occasion →

The art of pairing cheese

When it comes to pairing cheese (or any other foods and beverages for that matter), it comes down to balancing texture and flavour. For the purpose of this article, we will be focusing on the cheese selection but will also have a look at other accompaniments that you can serve alongside.

How much cheese should I serve?

Obviously, the amount of cheese a person can consume will depend largely on the individual. But, as a good rule of thumb, try to aim for 30 g (1 ounce) of each cheese per guest. Given the range of intensity of flavour (e.g., Brie vs Roquefort), you might want to factor in a range of ± 5 g for each cheese.

How many cheeses do I need?

Creating a memorable cheese platter is an art. You need variety, texture, and flavours that dance on your taste buds. And, for me, five is the magic number.

For the purpose of this article, we will be focusing on the cheese selection but will also have a look at other accompaniments that you can serve alongside.

Best French cheeses for your Christmas cheese platter

For our Christmas French cheese platter, we have chosen two pressed cheeses, one soft white mould, one soft washed rind and a spectacular blue cheese!

1. Beaufort

Beaufort is a large format pressed cooked cheese. Unlike most of the local offerings, Beaufort is actually made with whole cow’s milk, instead of skimmed milk. Over the decades, its signature has become the concave natural rind that wraps around the cheese.

At five months of maturation, Beaufort displays an incredible range of aromas and flavours. You can expect meaty, sweet and buttery flavours as well as floral and herbal notes coming from the grass-fed cows’ milk.

Look for a Beaufort d’Été to get the ultimate tasting experience. Indeed, local artisans only made this particular version of the cheese during the summer months at a minimum altitude of 1500m.

Without a doubt, Beaufort is good enough to eat on its own as a table cheese. Having said that, it is also a great melting cheese and can be mixed with Emmental de Savoie and/or Comté to make a local dish called Fondue Savoyarde.

2. Comté

There are few pleasures in life that can compare to an 18-month-old Comté. This traditional pressed cheese comes from the Jura region of France and is always made with raw cow’s milk. Did you know that Comté is one of France’s most popular cheeses?

Just like the famous Swiss cheese Gruyère, Comté is available at different ages. To achieve the perfect balance of texture and flavour, choose a Comté that is over 18 months old. At that age, you can expect a slightly firm texture and fruity aromas.

As for the flavour, it is incredibly complex and varied. You can expect everything from sweet to savoury, nutty to fruity and brothy to herbaceous. Comté excels as a table cheese but is also a great melter.

3. Chevrotin

Continuing with the mountain theme, we find ourselves in the Savoie region. And one of the most famous cheeses from Savoie is Chevrotin. Local farmers and cheesemakers craft this delightful goat’s milk cheese using the raw milk of French Alpine goats and it is a favourite among the locals.

Aged for a minimum of 21 days, Chevrotin looks like a small version of another famous cheese from Savoie, Reblochon. As a matter of fact, the main difference is that it is made using goat’s milk instead of cow’s milk. As a result, it is more aromatic and its flavour a slightly more pronounced with a certain “goaty” quality.

4. Mont d’Or

Also known as Vacherin du Haut-Doubs, Mont d’Or is a seasonal soft washed rind cheese that is made above 700m in the Haut-Doubs region of France. Since 1996, it has been protected by an AOP stamp which regulates its production and maturation. This historic cheese (early mentions date to the year 1280) is exclusively made from raw cow’s milk from the 15th of August to the 15th of March each year.

The end result is a soft cheese with a woody, earthy aroma. Overall, it has a full, rich, sweet and grassy flavour with a slightly acidic finish. Because of its unique aroma and flavour, Mont d’Or is one of the most sought-after cheeses in the entire world. The locals eagerly await its release every year in September. And it brings in hordes of tourists to the Haut-Doubs region.

When ripe, Mont d’Or can be served at room temperature. The best way to enjoy this seasonal cheese is by cutting the rind off the top and dipping a wooden spoon into the oozy, creamy paste underneath.

5. Roquefort

Finally, we have the King of French Cheeses. Roquefort is a traditional sheep’s milk blue cheese made in the Aveyron department. Undoubtedly, it is one of the world’s best-known cheeses and dates back to at least the 15th century.

The AOP dictates that this blue cheese can only be made in the Aveyron department. Furthermore, the wheels have to be matured in the natural Combalou caves of Roquefort-sur-Soulzon.

Roquefort has a moist velvety ivory paste that is mottled with delicate blue-green pockets and lines of mould. Your nose will be met with a tantalising aroma of forest undergrowth. Finally, the flavour is spicy on the front palate with a long grassy and salty finish.

Best accompaniments for your French cheese platter

Now that we’ve unveiled the stars of your French cheese platter, let’s talk about how to elevate their flavours with perfect pairings. Pairing is an art; it’s about finding combinations that enhance the taste of both the cheese and its accompaniments, creating a harmonious symphony of flavours on your palate.

Beaufort pairings

Beaufort, with its nutty and creamy profile, deserves accompaniments that enhance its richness. Pair it with caramelised walnuts or hazelnuts; their earthy notes will complement Beaufort’s flavours beautifully. Add some slices of ripe pear for a refreshing contrast, and you have a match made in cheese heaven.

Comté pairings

Comté’s nutty sweetness calls for pairings that highlight its complex flavours. Try it with apricot preserves; the slight tartness of the apricots balances the cheese’s sweetness perfectly.

Moreover, fresh, crusty baguette slices are a classic choice, allowing you to savour the cheese’s texture fully. For an added twist, include some thinly sliced prosciutto; its saltiness provides a delightful contrast.

Chevrotin pairings

The tangy and earthy notes of Chevrotin are best complemented by a touch of sweetness and freshness. Pair it with honey drizzled lightly over the cheese; the sweet and floral undertones of the honey enhance the goat cheese’s flavours.

Accompany it with slices of tart green apple; the crisp texture and slight sourness provide a wonderful balance. Add some crunchy, herbed crackers for an extra layer of flavour.

Mont d’Or pairings

Mont d’Or, a velvety delight, pairs wonderfully with rustic and savoury companions. Serve it with small roasted potatoes; their earthy taste complements the cheese’s richness. Add a dollop of Dijon mustard; its savouriness cuts through the creaminess, adding depth to the palate.

Spread the cheese on chunks of warm, freshly baked bread, and you’ll experience a heavenly combination of textures and flavours.

Roquefort pairings

Roquefort, with its intense and tangy profile, demands bold and flavourful accompaniments. Pair it with dark chocolate; the bitterness of the chocolate balances the cheese’s savouriness in a surprising and delightful way.

Include some ripe figs; their natural sweetness and chewy texture create a perfect contrast. Finally, offer some crunchy sea salt crackers for a satisfying crunch that complements Roquefort’s creamy texture.

Experimenting with these pairings will not only enhance your cheese platter but also provide your guests with a memorable tasting experience. So, gather your favourite accompaniments, arrange them creatively on your platter, and let the culinary adventure begin!

Best beverages to serve alongside your French Christmas cheese board

Choosing the right beverages to accompany your French cheese platter is just as important as selecting the cheeses and accompaniments. The right drink can enhance the flavours, cleanse your palate, and elevate your tasting experience to new heights.

Here’s a guide to beverage pairings that will perfectly complement your selection of Beaufort, Comté, Chevrotin, Mont d’Or and Roquefort:

White Wine: A classic choice

A crisp and refreshing white wine, such as a Chardonnay or Sauvignon Blanc, serves as an excellent companion to your cheese platter. The wine’s acidity cuts through the creamy textures of Chevrotin and Mont d’Or, enhancing their flavours.

For the blue cheese, we recommend a classic Roquefort partner: Sauternes. This sweet white wine perfectly contrasts the saltiness of Roquefort, creating a harmonious contrast.

Red wine

For the firmer and nuttier cheeses like Beaufort and Comté, opt for a medium-bodied red wine like a Pinot Noir or a light red Bordeaux. The wine’s tannins and fruity notes complement the cheeses’ nutty flavours, creating a delightful combination.

Furthermore, the richness of these cheeses is beautifully balanced by the subtle complexity of a good red wine.

Sparkling wine

Sparkling wines like Champagne or Prosecco are incredibly versatile and can cut through the richness of all your cheeses. The effervescence cleanses your palate, preparing it for the next delicious bite.

The slight sweetness in some sparkling wines also complements the saltiness of Roquefort, creating a playful contrast.

Craft beers

If you prefer beer, consider serving a selection of craft beers. A Belgian Tripel or a farmhouse ale pairs wonderfully with the strong flavours of Roquefort.

For the other cheeses, try a nut brown ale or a mild saison. The caramel and nutty notes in these beers complement the cheeses’ earthy flavours, offering a unique and satisfying tasting experience.

Cider

For a fresher option, a high-quality sparkling cider can be a delightful alternative. Its natural sweetness and crisp acidity make it an excellent palate cleanser between bites.

It pairs well with the creaminess of Chevrotin and Mont d’Or, creating a balance of flavours that everyone can enjoy.

Remember, the key to a successful beverage pairing is balance. Experiment with different combinations, trust your taste buds, and most importantly, enjoy the experience with good company and great conversation.

Conclusion

The art of crafting a cheese platter isn’t just about arranging delicious bites on a board; it’s a celebration of flavours, textures and traditions that bring people together.

In the heart of your festive gathering, the stars of the show – Beaufort, Comté, Chevrotin, Mont d’Or and Roquefort – stand tall, each telling a story of its region, craftsmanship, and heritage. With each bite, you’re transported to the charming countryside of France, where cheesemaking is an art form passed down through generations.

Accompanied by the perfect partners, these cheeses transform into a symphony of tastes and aromas. Each combination, meticulously paired with a drink, is a testament to the culinary magic that can happen when flavours complement and enhance one another.

But beyond the delectable tastes and enticing aromas, a cheese platter is a catalyst for connection. It’s a conversation starter, a reason to gather around the table, and an opportunity to create lasting memories with friends and family.

As glasses clink and laughter fills the air, these French cheeses become more than just food; they become a shared experience, a moment frozen in time, and a part of your cherished holiday traditions.

Jonah Kincaid

Cheese lover. Scientist. Created a website and a Youtube channel about cheese science because he could not find answers to his questions online. 

cheesescientist.com

The post 5 Best French Cheeses For Christmas (Food & Drink Pairings) appeared first on Cheese Scientist.

SEE ALSO: The 46 best protected cheeses that are made in France → 

Factors that affect the seasonality of cheese

There are many factors that determine when particular cheeses can be produced in France. Those can include everything from the climate to lactation cycles and legal aspects. Let’s have a look at some of the most important ones. 

Milk availability: when cheese can be made

Unsurprisingly, to make cheese, you need to have milk. And the availability of milk varies throughout the year, depending on the animals’ lactation cycles. In France, most cheeses are made using cow, goat or sheep milk. For the former, milk availability is not so much of an issue because cows produce milk for 10 out of 12 months. 

On the other hand, goats and sheep have much shorter lactation periods. Those can last from eight to nine months but vary depending on the breed and animal. Hence, goat and sheep’s milk cheeses can only be produced during those months.  

Now, cheese production and cheese availability are two very different things. What I mean by this is that two cheeses that are produced at the same time, might not be available for consumption at the same time. The disparity comes down to the different maturation times for different cheeses.

Therefore, a Brie de Meaux that was made in August will be released for sale around six weeks later in mid-September. Whereas a Roquefort also produced in August will only be available in November (90 days later). 

What the animals eat: what the cheese tastes like

In many ways, the seasonality of cheese is linked to the seasonality of milk. And this is largely impacted by what the animals eat. In the case of French sheep, they feed on grass pastures for most of the summer months.

As a result, the best batches of sheep’s milk cheeses such as Roquefort are produced at the end of summer (July/August). And they are released for consumption 90 days later, in time for Christmas. 

With cow’s milk cheeses such as Beaufort, the best milk is collected during the autumn months. During that time, the cows graze freely on mountain pastures and produce a rich high-quality milk. And Beaufort that is made from June to October is called Beaufort d’Été (Summer Beaufort). 

AOP restrictions

Taking into account the two factors we’ve just discussed, the AOP has set clearly defined production windows for some cheeses. The perfect example here is Mont d’Or.

The AOP stipulates that cheesemakers in the Haut-Doubs region of France can only produce this unique cheese between the 15th of August and the 15th of March.  

As a result, you can only buy Mont d’Or from the 10th of September to the 10th of May each year. You can read more about the Holy Grail of cheese by clicking here.  

Best French cheeses for each month of the year

Now that we’ve discussed the reasons for seasonality, let’s have a look at which cheeses are at their peak for each month of the year. 

January

In the heart of winter, January in France brings a chill to the air, and it’s the perfect time to indulge in the hearty delights of Raclette de Savoie, Comté, and Beaufort d’Été.

Raclette de Savoie, with its creamy, melt-in-your-mouth goodness, is a quintessential winter cheese. Originating from the Alpine region, it’s traditionally melted and scraped onto a plate of steaming potatoes, cured meats, and pickles. All together, you’ve got yourself an indulgent feast perfect for warming up during the cold season.

Comté, with its firm texture and nutty, sweet flavours, adds depth to January’s cheeseboard. Aged in the Jura Mountains, it pairs wonderfully with crusty bread and a glass of white wine, making it a comforting choice for long winter evenings.

Lastly, Beaufort d’Été, a summer version of the famous Beaufort cheese, offers a taste of the Alpine pastures during the colder months. Its floral and fruity notes, along with a smooth texture, provide a unique contrast to the winter landscape.

While the holiday festivities may have tapered off, these three Alpine cheeses continue to shine, offering warmth and flavour to January’s culinary adventures.

Best French cheeses for January

• Beaufort d’Été  
• Brocciu 
• Cantal 
• Chevrotin 
• Comté 
• Mont d’Or
• Munster 
• Raclette de Savoie  
• Rigotte de Condrieu 
• Salers 

February

The month of February brings an air of romance, and what better cheese to spotlight during this time than Neufchâtel cheese?

This heart-shaped delight, originating from Normandy, embodies the spirit of Valentine’s Day. Neufchâtel is known for its rich, creamy texture and mild, slightly tangy flavour, making it a symbol of love and indulgence.

Whether enjoyed as a decadent dessert with fresh berries and a drizzle of honey or as a savoury treat on a cheese platter with sparkling wine, Neufchâtel adds a touch of romance and elegance to your February celebrations.

Best French cheeses for February

• Beaufort d’Été  
• Brocciu 
• Cantal 
• Chevrotin 
• Comté 
• Mont d’Or
• Munster 
• Neufchâtel
• Raclette de Savoie  
• Salers 

March

With the promise of spring in the air, March is the ideal time to explore the distinct charms of Camembert de Normandie, Salers and Brillat-Savarin.

Camembert de Normandie, the quintessential French cheese, boasts a creamy, bloomy rind that encapsulates the essence of the season. As the days lengthen, this cheese offers a delightful combination of earthiness and mild sweetness. Enjoy it with fresh baguettes and a glass of crisp Normandy cider for a taste of springtime bliss.

Salers, an ancient cheese from the Auvergne region, provides a robust contrast with its firm texture and rich, nutty flavours. Crafted during the summer months when cows graze on mountain pastures, it offers a taste of the alpine meadows, even as the weather begins to warm.

March is the perfect time to eat Salers with crusty bread and a bold red wine, celebrating the transition from winter to spring.

Finally, Brillat-Savarin graces our tables with its luscious, triple-cream texture and delicate, buttery flavour. This decadent cheese, created in the heart of Burgundy, embodies indulgence and is a superb choice for springtime celebrations.

Pair it with ripe strawberries and a glass of Champagne, embracing the renewed vibrancy that March brings to our culinary experiences.

Best French cheeses for March

• Brie de Meaux
• Brillat-Savarin
• Camembert de Normandie
• Chabichou du Poitou
• Maroilles
• Morbier
• Neufchâtel
• Rocamadour
• Salers
• Valençay

April

As temperatures continue to rise and spring unfolds its beauty, April is the perfect time to indulge in the luxuriously creamy Brie de Meaux and the delectable Saint-Marcellin.

Brie de Meaux, hailing from the Île-de-France region, epitomises elegance with its soft, velvety texture and a rich, mushroom flavour that evokes the blooming season.

Whether paired with fresh baguettes or spread on crisp crackers, this classic French cheese adds a touch of sophistication to springtime gatherings, celebrating the return of warmth and sunshine.

In contrast, Saint-Marcellin, a small and rustic cheese from the Rhône-Alpes region, brings a delightful earthiness to your cheeseboard. With its creamy paste and slightly tangy flavour, it captures the essence of the awakening countryside. Enjoy it alongside fresh spring greens or a glass of fruity Beaujolais, creating a harmonious blend of flavours that mirror the season’s renewal.

April is a time for culinary indulgence, and these two cheeses epitomize the spirit of the season, making it a delightful time for cheese enthusiasts.

Best French cheeses for April

• Banon
• Bleu d’Auvergne
• Brie de Meaux
• Camembert de Normandie
• Langres
• Livarot
• Morbier
• Pont l’Evêque
• Saint-Marcellin
• Tomme de Savoie

May

May is a month of abundance, with lush green pastures providing the ideal conditions for cheesemaking. And during this season, Sainte-Maure de Touraine shines.

Hailing from the picturesque Loire Valley, this cylindrical goat cheese, distinguished by the characteristic straw running through its centre, is a gourmet delight. With May’s bounty, Sainte-Maure de Touraine reaches its peak, offering a tangy and earthy flavour profile with subtle herbal notes.

Its creamy interior contrasts beautifully with the edible rind, making it a must-have for cheese enthusiasts.

In addition to celebrating May Day with dancing around the maypole, the French also savour the delicate flavours of Sainte-Maure de Touraine in salads and on cheese platters. Or paired with Loire Valley wines, creating a culinary celebration of springtime.

Best French cheeses for May

• Banon
• Bleu des Causses
• Charolais
• Emmental de Savoie
• Epoisses
• Fourme d’Ambert
• Mâconnais
• Picodon
• Pouligny-Saint-Pierre  
• Sainte-Maure de Touraine  

June

With the arrival of June, the stage is set for two exceptional French cheeses to shine: Valençay and Rocamadour.

Valençay, with its iconic truncated pyramid shape and ashy coating, graces our tables during this time. Made from goat’s milk, Valençay boasts a bright, citrusy flavour with herbal undertones. Moreover, its unique appearance and exquisite taste make it a centrepiece of summer cheeseboards, whether paired with fresh garden herbs or enjoyed alongside crisp rosé wine.

Meanwhile, Rocamadour, a small, creamy cheese hailing from the Midi-Pyrénées region, is another June highlight. Its miniature disc-like shape and luscious texture create a delightful contrast to Valençay.

With a mild, nutty flavour and a hint of tanginess, Rocamadour is perfect for serving on warm summer evenings with a drizzle of local honey and a glass of Sauvignon Blanc.

Without a doubt, both cheeses capture the essence of June’s vibrant and sun-kissed days, offering a taste of the French countryside at its best.

Best French cheeses for June

• Banon
• Fourme d’Ambert
• Ossau-Iraty
• Pouligny-Saint-Pierre
• Rigotte de Condrieu
• Reblochon
• Rocamadour
• Sainte-Maure de Touraine
• Saint-Nectaire
• Valençay

July

Summer in France means holidays, beachside picnics and a perfect opportunity to savour Abondance cheese.

This semi-hard, mountain cheese from the Savoie region truly comes into its own during July. With its firm yet supple texture and a flavour profile that boasts nutty and fruity notes, Abondance is the epitome of summer indulgence.

Whether you’re picnicking in the Alps or by the Mediterranean, this cheese pairs wonderfully with fresh baguettes, crisp apples and a chilled glass of French white wine.

July also brings Bastille Day on July 14th, where fireworks light up the summer night sky in celebration of French culture and cuisine.

Best French cheeses for July

• Abondance
• Fourme d’Ambert
• Mimolette
• Pouligny-Saint-Pierre
• Reblochon
• Rocamadour
• Sainte-Maure de Touraine
• Saint-Nectaire
• Selles sur Cher
• Valençay

August

August ushers in the peak of summer, and it’s the perfect time to savour the delightful contrasts of Morbier and Ossau-Iraty cheeses.

Morbier, a semi-soft cow’s milk cheese, hailing from the Franche-Comté region, is known for its distinctive horizontal ash line running through its centre. With a creamy texture and a mild, nutty flavour, Morbier captures the essence of leisurely summer days.

It pairs beautifully with fresh summer fruits, like peaches and apricots, and a glass of chilled Chardonnay.

On the other hand, Ossau-Iraty, a Basque cheese made from sheep’s milk, offers a rich and complex flavour profile with hints of caramel and earthiness. Its firm, yet creamy texture makes it an excellent companion to summer picnics, rustic bread, and a bottle of robust red wine.

Together, Morbier and Ossau-Iraty celebrate the diversity of French cheeses, bringing together the lush pastures and flavours of August’s warm and sunny days.

Best French cheeses for August

• Abondance
• Comté
• Emmental de Savoie
• Mimolette
• Morbier
• Ossau-Iraty
• Raclette de Savoie
• Selles sur Cher
• Tomme de Savoie
• Valençay

September

As autumn arrives with its changing leaves and cooler temperatures, it’s the perfect time to enjoy the unique and delicious Langres cheese.

Hailing from the Champagne region of France, Langres cheese is a true autumn delight. Its small, round shape with a concave top is not only visually striking but also serves as a reservoir for Champagne or Marc de Bourgogne.

With a creamy, rich texture and a subtle yet complex flavour profile, Langres pairs beautifully with crusty bread and a glass of Champagne, making it an ideal choice for celebrating the transition to fall.

September also marks the grape harvest season in many parts of France, offering an excellent opportunity to enjoy Langres cheese alongside the newly pressed grape juices and the first wines of the season.

Best French cheeses for September

• Abondance
• Comté
• Langres
• Livarot
• Maroilles
• Mimolette
• Ossau-Iraty
• Raclette de Savoie
• Saint-Marcellin
• Tomme de Savoie

October

As the leaves turn to shades of gold and rust, October invites us to embrace the warm and inviting flavours of Mimolette cheese.

Hailing from the northern regions of France, Mimolette is a captivating cheese with a distinctive orange hue, resembling a pumpkin in its colouration. This hard cheese boasts a nutty, savoury profile with a hint of caramel, making it a delightful choice for the cosy autumn months.

Whether grated over hearty soups, paired with crisp apples, or enjoyed alongside a glass of red wine, Mimolette adds a unique depth of flavour to fall feasts.

As Halloween approaches, consider incorporating this cheese into your spooky-themed parties, as its vibrant orange hue can make for a visually striking addition to your cheese platters.

Best French cheeses for October

• Abondance
• Brie de Meaux
• Camembert de Normandie
• Comté
• Epoisses
• Mimolette
• Mont d’Or
• Rocamadour
• Roquefort
• Saint-Nectaire

November

As the chill of November sets in, it’s the perfect time to discover the rich and earthy flavours of Saint-Nectaire cheese.

Hailing from the volcanic Auvergne region of France, Saint-Nectaire is a true autumnal delight. Its supple, creamy texture and distinct orange rind give way to a beautifully balanced flavour profile. Look out for notes of mushrooms, forest floor and a hint of nuttiness.

This cheese pairs wonderfully with crusty baguettes, dried fruits and a glass of robust red wine, making it an ideal choice for warming gatherings as the days grow shorter.

November also marks the season for Beaujolais Nouveau, a celebration of the new wine release, and Saint-Nectaire’s complex flavours make it an excellent companion to the festivities, adding depth to your cheese and wine pairings.

Best French cheeses for November

• Comté
• Fourme d’Ambert
• Mont d’Or
• Morbier
• Ossau-Iraty
• Raclette de Savoie
• Roquefort
• Salers
• Saint-Nectaire
• Tomme de Savoie

December

As the year draws to a close, December offers a delectable opportunity to celebrate the holidays with two iconic French cheeses: Roquefort and Tomme de Savoie.

Roquefort, the king of blue cheeses, hailing from the limestone caves of southern France, embodies the season’s elegance with its creamy texture and bold, tangy flavour profile.

It’s the perfect companion for end-of-year cheese platters, harmonising wonderfully with sweet preserves and a glass of Sauternes.

On the other hand, Tomme de Savoie, a semi-soft cheese from the French Alps, brings a rustic charm to December’s table. With its earthy, nutty undertones and a creamy interior, it pairs wonderfully with crusty bread, winter fruits, and a glass of red wine.

Whether you’re celebrating Christmas, Hanukkah, or New Year’s Eve, incorporating Tomme de Savoie into your holiday spread adds a cosy, alpine touch to your festivities, perfectly complementing the season’s warmth and togetherness.

Best French cheeses for December

• Beaufort d’Été
• Bleu des Causses
• Comté
• Emmental de Savoie
• Mont d’Or
• Morbier
• Ossau-Iraty
• Roquefort
• Salers
• Tomme de Savoie

Conclusion

As we wrap up our tour through the seasons of French cheese, we are reminded of the profound connection between culture, climate and cuisine. From the snowy landscapes of winter to the vibrant blooms of spring and the sun-drenched days of summer, each month unveils a different chapter in the story of French cheesemaking.

Whether you’re savouring Raclette by a warm fireplace or enjoying Camembert in a sun-drenched garden, the world of seasonal cheeses in France is a true culinary treasure. So, as the seasons change, let your palate journey through this flavourful mosaic, and may you find joy in every bite.

Now, we’d love to hear from you: What’s your favorite seasonal French cheese? Share your thoughts and experiences with us in the comments below!

Jonah Kincaid

Cheese lover. Scientist. Created a website and a Youtube channel about cheese science because he could not find answers to his questions online. 

cheesescientist.com

The post Best Seasonal French Cheeses (10 Cheeses for Each Month) appeared first on Cheese Scientist.

SEE ALSO: Why are some cheeses wrapped in spruce bark? → 

What is Mont d’Or?

Also known as Vacherin du Haut-Doubs, Mont d’Or is a seasonal soft washed rind cheese that is made above 700m in the Haut-Doubs region of France. Since 1996, it has been protected by an AOP stamp which regulates its production and maturation. This historic cheese (early mentions date to the year 1280) is exclusively made from raw cow’s milk from the 15th of August to the 15th of March each year. 

The story behind the name Vacherin du Haut-Doubs is indeed an interesting one. Back in the day, Vacherin was the cheese of vachers. And a vacher is someone who rears and/or herds cattle in the Jura mountains.

As for Mont d’Or, it is a reference to the eponymous mountain  in the Haut-Doubs region. Its name can be translated to Golden Mountain in English.

The history of Mont d’Or

Quite remarkably, the earliest mentions of this beautiful cheese date back to the late 13th century. While they don’t mention the cheese by name, records from those time describe a soft washed rind cheese that is wrapped in bark. Fast forward to the 18th century and Mont d’Or had made its way to King Louis XV’s table. 

Historically, the vachers would use their rich winter milk to make Mont d’Or. In the Jura mountains, cheesemakers almost exclusively use spring and summer milk for Comté production. In winter, the cows produce less milk and access to cheesemaking facilities was tricky because of the weather.

Hence, farmers started to make smaller cheeses for their own personal consumption during the festive season. Over time, the popularity of Mont d’Or has meant that its season has expanded to range from the 10th of September to the 10th of May (depending on stock levels). 

In 1981, Mont d’Or attained AOC status to protect its terroir, production methods and geographical origin. As the European Union formed, its stamp of protection expanded to include an AOP in 1996. 

Who makes Mont d’Or?

Presently, there are only 10 cheesemakers who make Mont d’Or. Some of the more famous ones are Fromagerie Badoz, Coopérative Fromagère de Doubs and Fromagerie du Mont d’Or Sancey-Richard. Among the 10 producers, only La Ferme Mamet make a farmhouse Mont d’Or on their own farm using the milk from their herd of cows. 

Between them, the 10 producers make about 5500 metric tonnes of cheese every year. And they source their milk from 400 local farmers. The AOP has strict animal welfare requirements in place. As a matter of fact, each dairy cow needs to have access to 1 hectare of pasture. 

How is Mont d’Or made?

As you can expect, there are very strict guidelines in place for the production of Mont d’Or. You can learn about the entire process by clicking here.

Raw cow’s milk

As always, it starts with the milk. The AOP dictates that Mont d’Or makers have to use raw whole cow’s milk. Moreover, the cheesemakers cannot heat treat their milk in any way and have to start cheese production within 24 hours of milking. 

Traditional production methods

Production of Mont d’Or gets under way with coagulation of the milk at 39°C and the addition of rennet. Once the curd is formed, the cheesemaker cuts it into hazelnut-sized pieces and hoops them into cylindrical moulds for pressing. 

Wrapped in spruce

After pressing, they remove the young cheese from its mould and wrap them in a spruce bark by hand. The spruce bark is an essential part of the identity of Mont d’Or and makes a significant contribution to the aroma and flavour of the cheese. 

Currently, a small number of sangliers produce the spruce bark wraps for Mont d’Or. The bark has an iconic pliable texture and a woody aroma. Overall, each Mont d’Or cheese spends a minimum of 21 days on spruce planks to mature. During this time, an affineur regularly brushes and turns them.  

How is Mont d’Or packaged?

From day 12, the cheesemaker transfers the cheese into a spruce box that is just a little bit smaller than the cheese itself. Because the cheese has to be squeezed in, it develops delicate ripples on its top surface which are reminiscent of the mountain landscape of the Haut-Doubs. 

Presently, there are only four manufacturers who make the box for Mont d’Or. They all use spruce bark from freshly cut trees. And they deliver the boxes promptly to the cheesemakers to preserve their woody aroma and texture. 

What does Mont d’Or taste like?

The end result is a soft cheese with a woody, earthy aroma. Overall, it has a full, rich, sweet and grassy flavour with a slightly acidic finish. Because of its unique aroma and flavour, Mont d’Or is one of the most sought-after cheeses in the entire world.

The locals eagerly await its release every year in September. And it brings in hordes of tourists to the Haut-Doubs region. 

How do the French serve Mont d’Or?

When ripe, Mont d’Or can be served at room temperature. The best way to enjoy this seasonal cheese is by cutting the rind off the top and dipping a wooden spoon into the oozy, creamy paste underneath. Then, you will want to generously spread your bounty on a warm, crunchy baguette. 

Having said that, you can also bake Mont d’Or in its original wooden box. Gently poke in some garlic shards and add a splash of local white wine before sticking it in the oven. Finally, you can serve this little piece of heaven with Jura ham, sausages and boiled potatoes. 

Mont d’Or FAQs

Is Mont d’Or available in the USA?

Because it is made with raw milk and matured for less than 4 weeks, Mont d’Or is banned in a number of countries around the world, including the USA and Australia. You can however get your hands on the pasteurised or thermalised versions. 

I thought Vacherin was a Swiss cheese

Indeed, there are two Swiss versions called Vacherin Mont d’Or and Vacherin Fribourgeois. The Swiss Vacherin Mont d’Or is made with thermalised milk. And Vacherin Fribourgeois is actually a very different type of cheese. To this day, the French and the Swiss still argue over who created Vacherin first! 

What cheeses are similar to Mont d’Or?

Other than the Swiss Vacherin, there are a number of wonderful bark-wrapped cheeses made in France and around the world. Another French example is Vacherin des Bauges which can be very tricky to source if you don’t live locally. 

Moreover, the USA’s Rush Creek Reserve and Harbison are fantastic renditions of this iconic cheese using raw milk and pasteurised milk respectively. In the UK, Rollright is worth a mention. And, in Australia, Long Paddock Cheese’s Driftwood. 

Can you eat the rind?

As is most often the case with cheese, you can eat the rind of Mont d’Or. In fact, I would urge you to! Having said that, I need to point out that you probably shouldn’t attempt to eat the spruce bark! 

How can I tell whether my Mont d’Or is ripe?

A great tip is to look at the rind. Its colour will start to darken and develop pink patches as the cheese ripens. You can also give the cheese a gentle push using your thumb. If the cheese is ripe and ready to be eaten, you should feel a bit of give. 

The bark is covered in mould. Is my cheese still safe to eat?

YES! It is very common for a white mould to grow all over the spruce bark around Mont d’Or. You can definitely still eat the cheese. But, as I mentioned above, do not try to eat the bark! 

Conclusion

I hope that you’ve enjoyed reading this post on Mont d’Or. I’m sure you can see now why it is called the Holy Grail of cheese. Without a doubt, its annual release to market on the 10th of September is one of the most anticipated events for cheese lovers.

Are you one of the lucky cheese lovers who has enjoyed the real deal? Let me know in the comments. 

Jonah Kincaid

Cheese lover. Scientist. Created a website and a Youtube channel about cheese science because he could not find answers to his questions online. 

cheesescientist.com

The post Mont d’Or: The Holy Grail of Cheese appeared first on Cheese Scientist.

SEE ALSO: What’s the real difference between Brie and Camembert? → 

What is Camembert de Normandie?

Without a doubt, Camembert is one of the most famous soft white mould cheeses from anywhere in the world. In 1791, Marie Hamel adapted a recipe for Brie to invent Camembert. Since then, cheesemakers have copied her cheese around France and the rest of the world.

Because the AOP does not protect the name, producers can call their cheese Camembert even if they’re not following the recipe closely.

On the other hand, Camembert de Normandie is protected by an AOP stamp. Therefore, its name is reserved exclusively for cheeses made according to strict specifications in the Normandy region.

Moreover, this type of Camembert exclusively uses raw cow’s milk, must have a white bloomy rind and meet very strict dimension requirements. 

The area of production

When the AOP uses the term “area of production”, they mean where the milk comes from, where the cheese is made and where it matures. 

According to AOP specifications, the area of production for Camembert de Normandie includes the departments of Calvados, Eure, Manche and Orne. And within each department, there is an extensive list of communes with the most famous one being Camembert! 

However, the year 2020 saw an unsuccessful attempt to extend the region of production to include the department of Mayenne. So, as things stand, the four departments listed above still have exclusive rights to this AOP-protected Camembert. 

What milk is used to make Camembert de Normandie?

Over the years, there have been many attempts to allow pasteurised milk to be used. But, time and time again, the traditional methods using raw cow’s milk have been preserved.

One such recent attempt proposed two separate categories under the AOP listing: Camembert de Normandie (pasteurised) and Véritable Camembert de Normandie (raw).  

Breed

As of May 2017, all milk used to make Camembert de Normandie has to come from local herds that are at least 50% Normande cows. Normande cows originated in Normandy and date back to the 9th century.

As a matter of fact, their milk is used to make a number of other famous local cheeses such as Livarot and Pont l’Evêque. 

Pasture

Furthermore, the cows must be pasture fed for a minimum of six months each year. For the rest of the year, farmers can feed their cows hay that is freshly supplied each day. They can also be fed a mixture of corn, beets, cereals and molasses. 

The traditional methods

As you can expect, there are very strict guidelines in place for the production of Camembert de Normandie. Let’s have a look at what that entire process looks like. 

Handling of the milk

The milk has to be used within 72 hours of milking. This ensures the high quality of the raw milk and its safety. In addition to this, the raw milk cannot be heated to a temperature above 40°C (104°F).

The cheesemaker is also not allowed treat their milk by ultrafiltration, microfiltration or bactofugation. 

Which ingredients can be added

The cheesemaker can only add the following ingredients to their milk: starter culture, rennet, yeast, mould, salt and calcium chloride. Each ingredient plays an important role in crafting the organoleptic properties of this special Camembert. 

Coagulation with rennet

In a basin, the cheesemaker adds rennet to milk that is kept at a maximum of 37°C. Once the curd forms, they gently slice it vertically before being transferring to metal moulds.

Transferring the curd

After the cheesemaker cuts the curd, they transfer it to a mould using a special ladle called cuilleron. Effectively, each cheese will consist of a minimum of five ladles of curd, with each transfer separated by at least 40 minutes.

As a result of this slow process, the curds drain naturally under their own weight for the next 18 hours. 

Pressing the cheese

Once the cheese forms, the maker use a metal plate to squeeze out some extra whey. Afterwards, they dry salt each individual cheese before passing it on to an affineur for maturation. 

How the cheese is matured

Overall, the young Camembert will spend a minimum of 13 days on wooden boards at a temperature between 10°C and 18°C. Then, the affineur packs each cheese in special wooden boxes and matures them for an additional nine days.

Finally, Camembert de Normandie can leave the fromagerie 22 days after coagulation with rennet.  

The art of making Camembert de Normandie

Thank you for reading our post on how Camembert de Normandie is made. As you can see, there are very strict regulations that protect this traditional French cheese.

Would you like to learn more about how traditional cheese are made? Drop me a comment with your requests below. 

Jonah Kincaid

Cheese lover. Scientist. Created a website and a Youtube channel about cheese science because he could not find answers to his questions online. 

cheesescientist.com

The post How Camembert de Normandie Is Made (According to AOP rules) appeared first on Cheese Scientist.

SEE ALSO: The 46 most protected French cheeses by region →

How much cheese is sold each year in France?

In 2020, 8,468,797 metric tonnes of cheese were sold in France. As a matter of fact, that number is a significant 8.9% increase on the sales figures for 2019. Unsurprisingly, cheese sales and consumption have increased during the pandemic. Is there anything better than cheese to cheer you up? At The Cheese Scientist, we don’t think so!  

When you consider that the population of France (all ages) is 67.39 million, you find that the average person in France consumes 125 kg of cheese a year! Or 344 g of cheese a day. Sabine and I love cheese, but I have to admit that we both fall a bit short of this tally. 

What are the most popular milks used to make French cheese?

Next, let’s have a look at the different milks that the French use to make cheese. Once again, there are no surprises here as cow’s milk is by far the most popular milk. With 84.2% of the market, cow’s milk cheeses far outrank goat’s, sheep’s and other milks in both production and sales. 

However, you will find that this statistic is significantly different if we restrict the sales to the Loire region. Indeed, almost 70% of the entire country’s production of goat’s cheeses comes from the Loire Valley. And it is by far the most popular cheese in this part of France. 

What are the most popular types of cheese in France?

The most popular cheeses in France fall under the pressed cooked category (34%). Some examples of this type of cheese include Emmental and Comté. Indeed, those two cheeses are among the biggest sellers in the country but will have a closer look at those numbers a little bit later. 

In second place (29%), we find pressed uncooked cheeses such as Raclette and Morbier. Wrapping up the categories we have soft cheeses (e.g., Camembert), blue cheeses (e.g., Roquefort), chèvres (e.g., Sainte-Maure-de-Touraine) and whey cheeses (e.g., Brocciu).  

Where do the French buy their cheese from?

If you’ve never been to France, this stat is really going to surprise you. Yes, close to 50% of cheese sales in the country take place in large format supermarkets called hypermarkets. Over the last few years, cheese delivery services have boomed and now account for 7.4% of all sales. 

Finally, farmer’s markets and specialty cheese shops appear at the rear end of the list with respectively 5.8% and 6% of overall cheese sales. While we are witnessing a resurgence of such cheese shops in north American, Australia and the UK, it seems that their market share is diminishing each year in France. 

Are most French cheeses made with raw milk?

Our fifth stat looks at the percentage of cheeses made with raw milk versus pasteurised milk. And, if you’re familiar with the history of cheesemaking in France and most of Europe, this will not surprise you. A staggering 78.8% of all cheeses sold in France are actually made using raw milk. 

And yet, somehow, most of those cheeses are banned in the United States and Australia! Is this even a public health and safety issue? You can read more about the importance of raw milk cheese in our article on the topic.  

What is the most popular cheese in France?

I don’t know about you but I love a good sales chart! And if you tell me that this particular one doesn’t surprise you, I will be very impressed. The most sold cheese in all of France is Emmental! Yes, that large pressed cooked cheese with the large eyes. Actually, the main reason for this stat is the versatility of this particular mountain cheese. Indeed, Emmental is sold in wedges, blocks, cubes and slices and it does not disappoint in any form. 

Rounding up the top three, we find another pressed cooked cheese (Comté) and one of the most popular cheeses on Instagram, Raclette. What is less surprising is that Mozzarella makes the top 10 and Roquefort is the most popular blue cheese. 

Is cheese expensive in France?

Undoubtedly, cheese is much cheaper in France than it is in north America and Australia. Astonishingly, France’s most popular cheese, Emmental, costs only €7.55/kg. Actually, the only cheese in the top 15 sales that costs less than this is the soft cheese Coulommiers (€5.58/kg). 

On the higher end of the scale, we find the sheep’s milk blue cheese Roquefort (€16.15/kg) and the seasonal Mont d’Or (€14.63/kg). For the sake of comparison, in Australia, Roquefort costs about AU$85/kg (or €57/kg). And in the USA, it costs about USD$31/lb (or €66.95/kg). 

Finally, the most expensive cheese among the top 15 is the Italian Parmigiano Reggiano, clocking in at a “whopping” €18.15/kg. Yes, this is still a long way from the AU$100/kg (€67.50/kg) that we sometimes pay in Australia.  

Which French cheese sales stat surprised you the most?

Thank you for reading our list of 7 mind-blowing French cheese sales stats. Which one surprised you the most? Let me know in the comments.

Jonah Kincaid

Cheese lover. Scientist. Created a website and a Youtube channel about cheese science because he could not find answers to his questions online. 

cheesescientist.com

The post 7 Mind-Blowing French Cheese Sales Stats (France Agrimer 2020) appeared first on Cheese Scientist.

SEE ALSO: What’s the actual difference between Brie & Camembert? →

Is Neufchâtel France’s oldest cheese?

Neufchâtel is a heart-shaped soft, white mould cheese from Normandie in the north of France. Actually, it is the oldest known cheese from the region with earliest mentions dating back to the year 1035. 

Yes, that’s right! Neufchâtel is older than Camembert, Pont-l’Évêque and Livarot. Interestingly though, it was initially made in a round shape. As a matter of fact, this raw milk beauty draws its name from the small town where it was first made, Neufchâtel-en-Bray.  

Why is Neufchâtel shaped like a heart?

During the Hundred Years’ War (late 1300’s), the locals started to fraternise with English soldiers. As the story goes, young Normande girls would offer a heart-shaped Neufchâtel cheese to soldiers they fancied. And, as they say, the rest is history. 

Fast forward to present times and Neufchâtel now bears an AOP stamp of protection. Indeed, the AOP restricts its production to a 30km radius around Neufchâtel-en-Bray. Moreover, the milk has to come predominantly from Normande cows that are pasture-fed for a minimum of 6 months per year. 

What does Neufchâtel taste like?

A young Neufchâtel is ready to eat at around 2 weeks of maturation. At that age, it has a smooth white mould rind and a firm, but creamy paste. On the palate, its flavour is fresh and creamy, with lasting savoury notes. 

Have you eaten Neufchâtel before? Drop me a comment below.

Jonah Kincaid

Cheese lover. Scientist. Created a website and a Youtube channel about cheese science because he could not find answers to his questions online. 

cheesescientist.com

The post Why Neufchâtel Is Shaped Like A Heart appeared first on Cheese Scientist.