SEE ALSO: How Camembert became a food icon around the world →

A humble beginning

Marie Harel was born in 1761 in the village of Crouttes, located in the Normandy region of France. This part of France is known for its lush green pastures and dairy farming.

Back then, dairy products, especially cheese, were an important part of life in Normandy. From a young age, Marie was involved in her family’s farm, learning the art of cheesemaking from her mother.

The influence of a priest

The legend of Camembert begins during the French Revolution, a time of great turmoil and change. In 1791, a priest from Brie, fleeing persecution, sought refuge at the Harel farm. This priest, known as Abbé Charles-Jean Bonvoust, had extensive knowledge of cheesemaking. While hiding at the farm, he shared his secrets with Marie, teaching her new techniques.

One key lesson the priest taught was the use of Penicillium mould in cheesemaking. In Brie, this mould was already used to create the famous Brie cheese. Marie combined these teachings with her own knowledge. She used the local milk from Normandy and refined the methods to suit the region’s conditions.

And this combination gave birth to what we now know as Camembert cheese.

The rise of Camembert

Marie’s new cheese was an instant hit in the local area. Its rich, creamy taste and soft texture were unlike any other cheese made in Normandy at the time. As word spread, Camembert cheese was being sold in markets beyond the village of Camembert, which gave the cheese its name.

But it was Marie’s daughter, also named Marie, and her descendants who helped popularise Camembert. Over time, they continued to make the cheese following the family recipe and expanded its production.

By the mid-19th century, Camembert had become a well-known product throughout France.

Napoleon III and national recognition

The turning point for Camembert came in 1855. Emperor Napoleon III, known for his love of food, became a fan of Camembert. His endorsement brought national attention to the cheese. Soon, Camembert was being served at prestigious events and in the homes of the French elite.

Consequently, this royal approval solidified Camembert’s place as a national treasure.

The role of the industrial revolution

The late 19th century saw major advancements in technology and transportation. With the invention of the railway, Camembert cheese could be transported over long distances. This allowed it to reach markets in Paris and other major cities.

The creation of the wooden Camembert box in 1890, by Eugène Ridel, further aided its transportation. The box protected the delicate cheese and kept it fresh during shipping. Thanks to these innovations, Camembert became a household name across France.

The importance of Normandy milk

One of the reasons Camembert is so unique is the milk used in its production. Normandy cows, known for their high-quality milk, graze on the rich pastures of the region. The climate and soil of Normandy are ideal for dairy farming. As a result, their milk is rich in fat, perfect for making creamy cheeses like Camembert.

Traditionally, raw milk was used to make Camembert. This gave the cheese its distinct flavour and texture. Today, pasteurised versions are also available, but many connoisseurs believe the raw milk version is superior.

Camembert and World War I

Camembert’s fame spread beyond France’s borders during World War I. French soldiers were provided with Camembert in their rations, thanks to its long shelf life and ease of transport.

As they shared this cheese with their allies, they introduced Camembert to soldiers from Britain and the United States. After the war, demand for Camembert grew internationally, especially in Britain.

Protecting the tradition

As Camembert grew in popularity, many producers outside Normandy began making their own versions. This led to concerns about the authenticity and quality of the cheese. In 1983, the French government granted Camembert de Normandie an AOC (Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée) status. This protected the name “Camembert de Normandie” and ensured that only cheese made from raw milk in specific parts of Normandy could bear this name.

Today, when buying Camembert, you may notice two types: “Camembert de Normandie” and “Camembert”. The latter may be made with pasteurised milk or outside the designated region, while the former follows strict guidelines to preserve the traditional methods.

The legacy of Marie Harel

Marie Harel’s contribution to the world of cheese cannot be overstated. While her story is part legend, there is no doubt she played a crucial role in the creation of Camembert. Her legacy lives on, not just in the cheese itself, but in the entire culture surrounding it.

Today, the village of Camembert is a pilgrimage site for cheese lovers. Visitors can learn about the history of Camembert and even visit the farm where Marie Harel first made her famous cheese. The cheese is celebrated in festivals, museums, and books, ensuring Marie’s place in culinary history.

Camembert in modern times

Camembert remains one of the most popular cheeses in the world. It is enjoyed in many forms—baked, paired with fruit or simply eaten with bread. Despite changes in production methods, the heart of Camembert remains the same. It is a symbol of French culinary tradition and craftsmanship.

Modern cheesemakers continue to experiment with Camembert, creating variations that appeal to different tastes. Vegan and plant-based versions are also being developed, catering to those who avoid dairy. Yet, no matter how much it evolves, the essence of Camembert, born from the passion of Marie Harel, remains intact.

Conclusion

The story of Marie Harel and Camembert is a tale of innovation, tradition, and passion. From a small farm in Normandy to the tables of emperors and soldiers, Camembert has touched the lives of many. Its journey from a local delicacy to a global icon is a testament to the power of great food.

And at the heart of it all is Marie Harel, a woman whose name will forever be linked to one of the world’s finest cheeses.

Jonah Kincaid

Cheese lover. Scientist. Created a website and a Youtube channel about cheese science because he could not find answers to his questions online. 

cheesescientist.com

The post The Story of Marie Harel (Inventor of Camembert Cheese) appeared first on Cheese Scientist.

SEE ALSO: The world’s most outrageously expensive cheeses →

What is artisanal cheese?

In simple terms, artisanal cheese is cheese that is not mass produced on a large commercial scale. Indeed, this type of cheese is most often made in small batches. And the cheesemaker gives it plenty of care and attention during production and maturation.

In most cases, artisanal cheesemakers work on farms (farmhouse cheese) or in a small dairy facility. And they don’t use any artificial ingredients, additives or preservatives when crafting their cheese.

Meet artisanal cheesemakers, Ben & Bernie

In order to appreciate the value of artisanal cheese, one has to understand the work that goes into crafting it. While Ben & Bernie are fictional characters I’ve created for this post, their stories are very much real. In fact, they are inspired by a real life couple who make farmhouse cheese.

So, let’s learn about their life. Ben & Bernie own a small farm in regional Victoria, 3 hours drive from Melbourne. They live on the farm, tend to their small herd of sheep and operate a small dairy to make cheese from the milk of their ewes. This is what their typical day looks like.

4 am: Bring the ewes into their milking shed

It’s an early start for Ben & Bernie. They are both up at 4 am before the break of dawn. Ben goes out to their pastures to bring their ewes into their milking shed and starts the morning milking.

Meanwhile, Bernie enters their cheese maturation rooms to check on the batch of soft cheeses that they made yesterday. She visually inspects the rind for mould growth and tests their texture by feel.

7 am: Smear last week’s washed rinds

Afterwards, Bernie moves on to the pressed washed rind cheeses that were made last week. Those wheels need to be turned by hand and smeared with their special mixture daily for six weeks.

Her final stop is the blue cheese maturation room. There, she pulls out her cheese trier and sticks it into a wheel of cheese. She inspects the texture of the cheese throughout and gives it a little sniff. Good news! It is well on its way.

9 am: First batch of cheesemaking

By that time, Ben brings in the morning milk. He’s led their ewes back to pasture and it is now time to start making today’s batch of cheese. Bernie comes in to assess the milk and decides on what cheese to make today based on the milk’s qualities.

The milk goes through the pasteuriser and then culture and rennet are added. Thus begins the magical transformation of milk into cheese.

11 am: Debrief for a new cheese launch

After the morning make, Ben & Bernie have a quick debrief session and discuss some of their marketing plans for the launch of a brand new raw milk cheese that they have been working on for 3 years. It is getting very close to fruition and they are very excited!

12 pm: Lunch followed by the afternoon make

Time for a quick lunch break and Bernie is back in the dairy for the afternoon make. While she starts work on a batch of blue cheese, Ben is out and about on the farm doing some maintenance work. The tractor has been playing up again.

3 pm: Cheese delivery & health check

By mid-afternoon, the cheesemaking is done for the day. It is now time for Ben to pick up a small selection of cheeses from their maturation rooms and deliver them to local businesses that stock their range. In that time, Bernie does a quick health check on the herd to make sure all the milking ewes are well and have healthy and clean teats.

7 pm: A good day’s work

By dinner time, they are both tired but happy. They take immense pride in the quality of their milk and the cheese that they make. This is a simplified breakdown of what a cheesemaker’s day is like. But, hopefully, it is enough to give you a sense of what their work involves.

A day in an artisanal cheesemaker’s life

Now, I realise that not all artisanal cheeses are made on farms. But the process involved will not change much. The only difference might be that the farming and cheesemaking are done by different people. I hope that this story helps you understand the essence of artisanal cheese. And why it costs as much as it does. Does this story resonate with you? Let me know in the comments.

Jonah Kincaid

Cheese lover. Scientist. Created a website and a Youtube channel about cheese science because he could not find answers to his questions online. 

cheesescientist.com

The post Artisanal Cheese: Why It’s So Special appeared first on Cheese Scientist.

SEE ALSO: Why Stilton is no longer made with raw milk →

A humble cheesemonger in London

Will’s love story with cheese has humble beginnings in a food shop in London called Justin de Blank in the 1970’s. During his stint there, he learnt about the subtle flavours of freshly cut Gruyère and the layered aroma of Camembert de Normandie.

Will would go on to own 7 delis peppered around the West End of London.

In the 1980’s, Will sold his businesses and migrated to Australia with his wife and young family. Australia would provide a blank canvas for him to ply his trade and share his passion for raw milk cheese. And there were few cheeses that ignited his passion more than Roquefort. 

Roquefort: A raw milk sheep’s cheese from Aveyron

Roquefort is a traditional French blue cheese made in the Aveyron department. Undoubtedly, it is one of the world’s best-known cheeses and dates back to at least the 15th century. It bears an AOP stamp which protects its origin and production. 

The AOP dictates that this blue cheese can only be made in the Aveyron department. Furthermore, the wheels have to be matured in the natural Combalou caves of Roquefort-sur-Soulzon. Also, the cheesemakers have to exclusively use the unskimmed raw milk of Lacaune ewes. 

You can read more about the importance of raw milk cheese here. 

1994: The ban on all raw milk cheese

Until 1994, the Australian Quarantine and Inspection Service (AQIS) allowed the importation of raw milk cheeses. The only pre-requisite was that they were a minimum of 120 days old.

However, in 1994, AQIS passed a major change in their food standards which allowed only pasteurised milk to be used in cheesemaking. 

Pioneered by Louis Pasteur, pasteurisation involves heating milk to around 70°C or 160°F for around 15 seconds. Pasteurisation of milk removes all bacteria, the harmful and the good. While this process makes milk safer to drink, it does lead to a loss of identity. 

As a result of this ban, European classics such as Parmigiano Reggiano, Gruyère and Roquefort could not be imported to Australia anymore. As you can imagine, this was not a very popular decision. 

1998: Exemptions for Parmigiano Reggiano & Gruyère

Due to the subsequent barrage of diplomatic protest, a special exemption was granted for Swiss raw milk cheeses. As a result, in 1998, Australians could import and sell Gruyère, Emmentaler and Sbrinz. Soon after, they extended this exemption to include the Italian raw milk cheeses Parmigiano Reggiano and Grana Padano. 

Overall, those exemptions allowed the importation and sale of Swiss pressed cooked cheeses and other “very hard” cooked cheeses. The importer would have to provide proof that the cheese curds had been heated to a minimum of 47°C/118°F. Or that the cheese exhibited an “equivalent level of bacteria reduction.”

While the exemption satisfied the Italians and Swiss, the ban on Roquefort persisted. The reason for this was because Roquefort isn’t a cooked cheese and has a high moisture content.

2002: Will Studd imports 80kg of Roquefort

Due to the wording of the regulations, Will Studd saw an opportunity to challenge the ban on Roquefort. Could it be that this historical blue cheese is made in such a way that produces an “equivalent level of bacterial reduction”?  

In February 2002, Will Studd imported a special consignment of 80 kilograms of pre-tested Roquefort into Melbourne. Unsurprisingly, his shipment was stopped at the border by import police. And they ordered its destruction by deep burial because it did not meet FSANZ’s standards for raw milk cheese.

Furthermore, Will Studd’s request to test the cheese for bacterial levels at his own expense was also turned down. 

Will Studd: Cheese Terrorist

Despite the food safety body’s stance, Will Studd wasn’t ready to give up on his beloved Roquefort. The legal battle would rage on for more than a year during which time the shipment of cheese was stored in a government warehouse.

The local authorities even threatened Will with a $100,000 fine and up to 10 years in prison. 

To Will’s surprise, the National Dairy Authority and the chairman of the Australian Specialist Cheesemakers Association also publicly condemned his actions.

They claimed that Will was undermining the reputation of the local specialist cheese industry and branded him a “cheese terrorist”. 

2003: Roquefort, La Marseillaise & a public burial

From 2002 to 2003, the Roquefort waited patiently in storage while the legal battle raged on. In April 2003, Will Studd’s appeal was finally heard at the Administrative Appeals Tribunal in Melbourne. Six months later, they delivered the verdict.

Will had lost his case and they would not test the cheese. Their decision was final and stated that Roquefort violated the FSANZ (Food Standards Australia New Zealand) standards. 

As a result, they demanded that Will Studd either re-export or destroy the Roquefort by deep burial. So, he orchestrated a “faux funeral” and ceremoniously carried the 80kg of cheese to a landfill.

For added effect, he did this in the back of a black hearse draped in the French national flag. At the landfill, they unloaded the shipment into a dumpster to the sounds of “La Marseillaise”, France’s national anthem. 

2005: The ban on Roquefort is repealed

In March 2005, following an 18-month review, FSANZ finally published a lengthy report repealing the ban against Roquefort. Finally, they had given in to pressure from lobbyists like Will Studd, the French government and the Australian cheese loving public.

Undoubtedly, the Australian government’s prohibition had established a dangerous trade precedent that could be repeated in much larger markets such as the United States.  

2009-2020: Major changes in raw milk cheese regulations

While the battle for Roquefort was raging on, Will Studd also lodged an application with FSANZ to review the standards for the production and sale of raw milk cheese.

As a result, the regulating body announced some minor changes in regulations that would allow the production of pressed cooked cheeses in Australia. To meet those requirements, the cheesemaker would have to follow strict production and maturation standards. 

Bruny Island Cheese Company

In 2009, those changes enabled visionary cheesemaker Nick Haddow to craft Australia’s first raw milk cheese, Bruny Island Cheese Company’s Raw Milk C2. Nick and head cheesemaker Luke Jackson, started making C2 using the raw milk of their own cows. 

Pecora Dairy & Prom Country Cheese

10 years later, further changes to the restrictions were implemented that allowed the production and sale of uncooked raw milk cheeses. And in 2019, New South Wales’s Pecora Dairy launched Yarrawa, a raw milk pressed uncooked cheese make with their own sheep’s milk.

In 2020, Victoria’s Prom Country Cheese followed in their footsteps with their Moyarra Reserve. 

Will Studd: A cheese legacy

It is undeniable that the Australian artisanal cheese industry owes a lot to Will Studd. From his battles for raw milk cheese to his cheese education projects (be sure to check out Cheese Slices), he has left an indelible mark. 

Thank you for reading this Cheese Story. Would you like to see more posts like this one? Let me know in the comments below. 

Jonah Kincaid

Cheese lover. Scientist. Created a website and a Youtube channel about cheese science because he could not find answers to his questions online. 

cheesescientist.com

The post Will Studd: The Battle for Roquefort appeared first on Cheese Scientist.