In a country that has elevated blue cheese to an art form, Bleu de Termignon sits awkwardly, proudly, and a little stubbornly to one side. It has no added mould. No pierced veins. No industrial starter cultures. And no tidy consistency from wheel to wheel. Some wheels are barely blue at all. Others look like they’ve been quietly overtaken by a benevolent fungus with its own agenda.

This is not a cheese you make in the conventional sense. It is a cheese you allow.

And that is precisely why it may be the most unique blue cheese France has ever produced.

A blue cheese that breaks every blue cheese rule

Let’s get the obvious out of the way.

Bleu de Termignon is a blue cheese with:

• no added Penicillium cultures
• no piercing to introduce oxygen
• no guarantee it will even turn blue

From a cheesemaking textbook perspective, this is borderline heresy.

Most blue cheeses rely on deliberate inoculation with Penicillium roqueforti. The mould is selected, cultured, added, and then given oxygen highways through skewering. The process is controlled. Predictable. Repeatable.

Bleu de Termignon shrugs at all of that.

Its blue comes entirely from wild, native moulds already present in the milk and environment. Some wheels bloom with soft blue freckles. Some develop dramatic marbling. Others remain almost entirely white, save for a faint whisper of colour.

All of them are considered authentic.

That variability isn’t a flaw.
It’s the point.

One valley, one pasture, one moment in time

Bleu de Termignon comes from a single corner of the Alps: the Maurienne Valley, tucked within Savoie.

This is not broad-terroir cheese. This is hyper-local cheese.

Production is limited to summer, when cows graze on high alpine pastures rich in wild grasses, flowers, and herbs. These plants shape the milk microbiome, which in turn determines whether blue mould will appear at all.

• No two summers are the same.
• No two pastures are the same.
• No two cheeses are the same.

Bleu de Termignon is seasonal in a way that most modern cheeses simply are not allowed to be anymore.

The milk does all the talking

Raw milk is often described as “complex” or “alive”, but in most cheeses, that life is still guided and restrained.

Not here.

Bleu de Termignon uses raw cow’s milk, and the milk is barely interfered with. There is no standardisation. No attempt to tame its microbial population. The cheesemaker’s role is largely observational.

Think less “engineering” and more “shepherding”.

The milk’s native bacteria, yeasts, and moulds decide:

• if blue mould develops
• how quickly it appears
• how intense it becomes
• how it interacts with the paste

This makes the cheese feel less like a product and more like a biological event.

A blue cheese without veins

One of the most visually striking things about Bleu de Termignon is the absence of classic blue veining.

There are no tidy networks of mould tracing air channels through the paste. Instead, blue appears as:

• small freckles
• cloud-like blooms
• irregular patches

Sometimes the blue is so faint that you need to look closely. Other times it dominates entire sections of the wheel.

The mould grows where it can, not where it’s told to.

This gives the cheese a far more organic appearance than its cousins like Roquefort or Bleu d’Auvergne. It looks wild because it is wild.

The flavour: blue cheese, but not as you know it

If you’re expecting aggressive pungency, slow down.

Bleu de Termignon is not about confrontation. Its flavour profile is surprisingly gentle for a blue:

• milky and lactic at first
• grassy and herbal
• lightly animal
• softly peppery, rather than overtly spicy

When blue mould is present, it tends to bring earthiness and savouriness, not the searing intensity people associate with blues.

Some wheels taste almost like an alpine tomme with philosophical ambitions. Others lean more assertively blue, but even then, the mould rarely dominates.

This makes Bleu de Termignon unusually approachable, even for people who claim not to like blue cheese.

Texture: firm, sliceable, and quietly strange

Most blue cheeses fall into familiar textural categories:

• crumbly
• creamy
• spoonable

Bleu de Termignon does none of those.

It is firm and sliceable, closer to a mountain cheese than a classic blue. The paste can be dense, elastic, and slightly granular, depending on age and moisture.

The blue mould doesn’t soften the paste dramatically. Instead, it integrates into it.

The result is a cheese that behaves more like a hard or semi-hard cheese on the board, while tasting unmistakably blue.

That contradiction alone makes it remarkable.

No AOP, no safety net

Despite its singularity, Bleu de Termignon does not have AOP protection.

This isn’t because it lacks heritage. Quite the opposite.

The cheese is so variable, so dependent on chance and environment, that codifying it into a strict specification would undermine its essence. You cannot mandate wild mould behaviour. You cannot standardise unpredictability.

Its identity survives because:

• production is tiny
• knowledge is passed locally
• tradition outweighs market pressure

In an era of branding and certification, Bleu de Termignon exists largely because it refuses to scale.

A cheese that challenges modern cheesemaking logic

From a modern food safety and consistency standpoint, Bleu de Termignon is uncomfortable.

It asks questions the industry doesn’t love answering:

• How much control is too much?
• Is variability inherently risky, or just unfamiliar?
• Can a cheese still be “excellent” if it refuses to behave?

Bleu de Termignon reminds us that cheesemaking did not begin as a controlled process. It began as an observation of milk’s natural transformations.

This cheese sits closer to that origin story than almost anything else still made today.

Why some wheels never turn blue at all

Here’s the part that really breaks people’s brains.

Some authentic Bleu de Termignon wheels show no blue mould whatsoever.

They are still sold as Bleu de Termignon.

Why?

Because the identity of the cheese is not defined by blue presence alone. It is defined by:

• place
• milk
• season
• method

Blue mould is a possibility, not a requirement.

This forces us to confront an uncomfortable truth: we often define cheeses by visual cues rather than by process or origin. Bleu de Termignon flips that on its head.

The cheesemaker: restraint, patience, and local knowledge

Bleu de Termignon is not made by factories or even by large creameries. It is produced by a small handful of farmers and cheesemakers working within the valley, often alongside their own herds.

One of the most well-known producers is Catherine Richard, whose work has become closely associated with the cheese. She works with a small herd of around 18 cows, primarily Tarine and Abondance breeds, moved to high alpine pasture during the summer months. These hardy mountain cows, and the plants they graze, shape the milk that ultimately decides whether the cheese will turn blue at all.

The cheesemaker’s role here is deliberately minimal. Milk is handled gently. Coagulation, cutting, and draining follow local tradition rather than written protocol. There is no attempt to seed blue mould or to correct its absence. The cheese is simply turned, salted, and aged, with careful attention rather than intervention.

This requires a particular mindset. You need to be comfortable with uncertainty. You need to accept that nature may not perform on cue. And you need enough experience to recognise when a cheese is developing character rather than heading for trouble.

In that sense, Bleu de Termignon reflects its makers perfectly. It rewards patience, humility, and trust in the land. The cheesemaker does not impose identity on the cheese. They protect the conditions that allow it to reveal its own.

Eating Bleu de Termignon is an act of trust

When you buy this cheese, you are accepting uncertainty.

You do not know:

• how blue it will be
• how intense it will taste
• how this year’s pasture shaped it

Instead, you trust the valley. You trust the milk. And you trust time.

That trust is increasingly rare in modern food systems.

Why it will never be widely available

Bleu de Termignon cannot be industrialised without ceasing to be itself.

Scaling would require:

• standardised cultures
• controlled mould development
• predictable outcomes

At that point, it would become a different cheese wearing the same name.

Its rarity is not a marketing choice. It is a biological necessity.

How to serve it (without overthinking it)

Bleu de Termignon doesn’t want fuss.

Serve it:

• at cellar temperature
• sliced, not crumbled
• with simple bread
• maybe boiled potatoes if you’re feeling alpine

Avoid drowning it in sweet accompaniments. Let the milk speak first. The mould will join the conversation when it’s ready.

A cheese that resists definition

Every great cheese tells a story.

Bleu de Termignon tells several, and none of them line up neatly.

It is:

• a blue cheese that may not be blue
• a mountain cheese with mould ambitions
• a raw milk cheese that refuses control
• a product of place more than process

In a country famous for refining cheese into perfected categories, Bleu de Termignon stands apart by refusing categorisation altogether.

That refusal is not a weakness. It is its quiet, stubborn brilliance.

Why Bleu de Termignon might be France’s most important blue cheese

Bleu de Termignon is not the most famous. Not the most powerful. Not the most recognisable.

But perhaps the most honest.

It reminds us that cheese is not just a recipe. It is ecology, chance, restraint.

And sometimes, the most extraordinary thing a cheesemaker can do is step back and let nature finish the sentence.

Bleu de Termignon does exactly that.

If you enjoy deep dives like this into cheeses that refuse to behave, you’ll probably like my email list. I share new posts, research notes, and the occasional strong opinion straight to your inbox. No spam. No fluff. Just cheese, properly interrogated.

Jonah Kincaid

Cheese lover. Scientist. Created a website and a Youtube channel about cheese science because he could not find answers to his questions online. 

cheesescientist.com

The post Why Bleu de Termignon Might Be France’s Most Unusual Blue Cheese appeared first on Cheese Scientist.

SEE ALSO: The ultimate list of French cheeses you need to try at least once in your life →

The origins of Camembert

Camembert was first made in Normandy, France. Its history dates back to 1791 when a farmer named Marie Harel created it. The cheese is named after the village of Camembert in Normandy. It quickly became popular and remains one of the most well-known French cheeses today.

Camembert’s roots are closely tied to the Normandy region. The rich pastures of Normandy provide ideal conditions for dairy farming. and the region’s cows produce high-quality milk, which is essential for making top-quality Camembert.

The story goes that Marie Harel learned the recipe from a priest who was fleeing the French Revolution. She used her own techniques to develop what we now know as Camembert. Over time, the recipe spread beyond Normandy, and by the 19th century, it was being sold all over France.

How Camembert cheese is made

Making Camembert is a craft that requires skill and patience. The process starts with cow’s milk, which is the base ingredient. Traditionally, unpasteurised milk is used, though today many producers use pasteurised milk for safety reasons.

Once the milk is collected, a starter culture is added. This helps the milk curdle. Rennet, an enzyme, is then added to speed up the process. After a few hours, the curds form and are cut into small pieces to release the whey.

The curds are then placed into moulds. This is where the cheese takes its shape. Over the next few hours, the whey drains away, leaving behind a soft cheese. It’s then salted, which helps with flavour and preservation.

After salting, the cheese is left to mature. This is the crucial step that gives Camembert its distinctive texture and taste. Maturation typically takes between two and four weeks. During this time, the cheese develops a white, bloomy rind. Inside, the cheese becomes soft and creamy.

Traditional vs. industrial Camembert cheese

There is a difference between traditional Camembert and the industrial versions you find in supermarkets. Traditional Camembert is made with raw milk and follows strict guidelines. It’s known as “Camembert de Normandie”. To carry this name, it must be made in Normandy using local milk and traditional methods.

Industrial Camembert, on the other hand, is often made with pasteurised milk. It’s mass-produced and may not have the same depth of flavour as traditional versions. While still delicious, it lacks some of the character that makes authentic Camembert so special.

The production of Camembert has become a point of pride for Normandy. The AOP (Appellation d’Origine Protégée) label protects traditional Camembert de Normandie. This ensures that the cheese is made to exacting standards.

The flavour profile

Camembert has a complex flavour profile. When young, it has a mild, slightly earthy taste. As it matures, the flavour becomes stronger, with more pronounced earthy and mushroom notes. The rind is edible and adds a slight bitterness to the overall taste.

The texture is soft and creamy, especially when the cheese is at room temperature. The inside should be gooey and spreadable. The contrast between the bloomy rind and the soft interior makes for a delightful experience.

Many people compare Camembert to Brie, another soft French cheese. While similar in appearance, Camembert tends to have a more robust flavour. Brie is usually milder and creamier, while Camembert has a stronger, more pungent taste as it matures.

How to enjoy Camembert

Camembert is best enjoyed at room temperature. Take it out of the fridge about 30 minutes before serving. This allows the cheese to soften and its flavours to develop fully.

There are many ways to enjoy Camembert:

• On its own: A slice of Camembert on a piece of baguette is a simple yet delicious treat.
• With fruits: Camembert pairs well with fruits like apples, pears and figs. The sweetness of the fruit complements the earthy flavours of the cheese.
• Baked: Baked Camembert is a very popular dish around the world. Simply place the whole cheese in an ovenproof dish and bake until it’s soft and melty. Serve with crusty bread or crackers for dipping.
• In salads: Add slices of Camembert to a fresh green salad. It pairs beautifully with walnuts, apples and a light vinaigrette.
• With wine: Camembert pairs well with a variety of wines. Some great choices would include an oaked Chardonnay or a dry Riesling.

Storing Camembert cheese

Camembert should be stored in the fridge. Keep it in its original packaging, or wrap it in wax paper. Avoid plastic wrap, as this can cause the cheese to become overly moist.

Camembert continues to mature even after you buy it. If you prefer a milder taste, eat it sooner rather than later. For a stronger flavour, allow it to sit in the fridge for a few days before eating.

Once opened, Camembert should be consumed within a week. It’s best to check the cheese regularly for any signs of spoilage, such as an overly strong ammonia smell.

Health benefits of Camembert

Like many cheeses, Camembert is a good source of protein and calcium. It also contains beneficial bacteria that can aid digestion. However, it’s also high in fat and calories, so it’s best enjoyed in moderation.

Camembert is rich in vitamins like B12, which is important for brain health and red blood cell production. It also provides other nutrients such as vitamin A, which supports eye health and the immune system.

If you’re lactose intolerant, you may still be able to enjoy Camembert. The fermentation process reduces the lactose content, making it easier to digest for some people.

Camembert around the world

Although Camembert originated in France, it’s now produced in many countries. You can find versions of Camembert made in the UK, the USA and even Australia. However, these versions often differ in flavour and texture due to differences in milk and production methods.

In Britain, Camembert is becoming increasingly popular. Many artisan cheesemakers are now producing their own versions, using British milk and local techniques. The best example of this is Hampshire Cheeses’s Tunworth.

While they may not have the AOP status of French Camembert, they are often delicious in their own right.

Fun facts about Camembert

• The round box: The iconic wooden box that Camembert comes in was invented in the late 19th century. It allowed the cheese to be transported more easily and helped its popularity spread.
• War-time cheese: During World War I, Camembert was included in the rations of French soldiers. This boosted its reputation and made it a symbol of French pride.
• Camembert in space: In 2021, a French astronaut took Camembert with him to the International Space Station. It was part of a special meal to celebrate French cuisine.

The Camembert controversy

In recent years, there has been some controversy around the production of Camembert. As demand for the cheese has grown, many large-scale producers have started using pasteurised milk. This has led to a debate about whether pasteurised Camembert can truly be called Camembert.

Traditionalists argue that raw milk is essential to the flavour of authentic Camembert. They believe that pasteurisation removes some of the complexity and depth of the cheese. On the other hand, pasteurised Camembert is safer and has a longer shelf life, making it more accessible to a wider audience.

In response to this debate, French authorities introduced stricter rules around the use of the name “Camembert de Normandie”. Only cheeses made with raw milk and following traditional methods can use this label.

The future of Camembert

As consumer tastes evolve, Camembert continues to adapt. While traditional methods are still prized, there’s a growing interest in innovation within the cheese industry. Producers are experimenting with new techniques, flavours and even plant-based alternatives.

In the UK, for example, there’s been a rise in vegan cheeses, including versions of Camembert made from cashews or other nuts. These plant-based alternatives aim to mimic the creamy texture and rich flavour of traditional Camembert, though they’re not yet able to fully replicate the experience.

Camembert is also facing challenges from climate change. The dairy industry relies heavily on the environment, and changes in weather patterns could impact the quality of milk and the ability to produce certain cheeses. This is a concern not just for Camembert but for all artisanal cheeses.

Conclusion

As you can see, Camembert is more than just a cheese, it’s a symbol of French culture and tradition. From its humble beginnings in Normandy to its worldwide fame, Camembert has captured the hearts of cheese lovers everywhere.

Whether you prefer it mild or strong, baked or fresh, Camembert is a versatile cheese that can be enjoyed in many ways. Its creamy texture and earthy flavour make it a favourite on cheese boards and in recipes alike.

As Camembert continues to evolve, its rich history and unique taste ensure that it will remain a beloved cheese for generations to come.

Jonah Kincaid

Cheese lover. Scientist. Created a website and a Youtube channel about cheese science because he could not find answers to his questions online. 

cheesescientist.com

The post Camembert: Pride of Normandie (France’s Famous Soft Cheese) appeared first on Cheese Scientist.

What ingredients do you need to make cheese? 

Before we dive into the milk selection, it’s important to briefly touch on other vital ingredients for cheesemaking. These include rennet, starter cultures and salt. Each ingredient plays a specific role in the cheesemaking process, contributing to the final product’s flavour, texture, and longevity. 

Rationale for milk selection

The choice of milk for cheesemaking is a critical decision that directly impacts the flavour, texture and quality of the final product.

When selecting the appropriate milk for your cheese, several key factors come into play. Let’s take a look at the most important ones.

Which animal’s milk should you use?

The best source of milk for cheesemaking depends on the type of cheese you want to produce. This is because different cheeses require different milk characteristics.

Here are some common sources of milk used in cheesemaking: 

1. Cow’s milk 

Without a doubt, cow’s milk is the most common choice for cheesemaking. It produces a wide variety of cheeses, including Cheddar, Parmesan and Gouda. Since the fat content in cow’s milk can vary, the cheeses display a range of textures and flavours. 

2. Goat’s milk 

Goat’s milk is often used to make cheeses like Chèvre, Feta and Chevrotin. Undoubtedly, goat milk has a distinct flavour and can result in creamy and tangy cheeses. 

3. Sheep’s milk 

Sheep’s milk is used to make cheeses like Pecorino Romano and Roquefort. It has a higher fat content than cow’s milk, which contributes to the rich and robust flavours of these cheeses. 

4. Buffalo milk 

Buffalo milk is primarily used for making Mozzarella di Bufala, which has a unique texture and flavour compared to cow’s milk versions.  

5. Mixed milk 

Some cheeses are made using a combination of different milk types, such as cow’s, goat’s and sheep’s milk. This can result in complex and nuanced flavours. Actually, this practice is very common in Greece.

6. Other milk 

While cow, goat, sheep and buffalo milk are the most commonly used animal sources for cheesemaking, there are some non-traditional and more exotic animal sources that can also be used to make cheese. 

Some great examples include camel milk, yak milk, moose milk, donkey milk and alpaca milk. 

Ultimately, the best type of milk for cheesemaking depends on your personal preferences and the type of cheese you want to produce. As always, it’s important to follow specific recipes and techniques tailored to the type of milk you choose to ensure the best results. 

Raw milk vs. pasteurised milk 

Whether you should use raw or pasteurised milk for cheesemaking depends on various factors, including your personal preferences, the type of cheese you want to make, and local regulations. 

Both raw and pasteurised milk can be used to make cheese, and each has its own advantages and considerations. 

Making cheese with raw milk 

• Flavour complexity: Raw milk can contribute to a more complex and nuanced flavour in some cheeses. This is due to the presence of beneficial bacteria and enzymes naturally found in the milk. 
• Local regulations: The use of raw milk for cheesemaking is subject to strict regulations in many countries and regions due to concerns about food safety. Indeed, it may be illegal or heavily regulated in some areas. 
• Quality control: If you choose to use raw milk, it’s essential to ensure that it comes from a reliable and clean source. By doing so, you will minimise the risk of contamination with harmful bacteria. Many artisanal cheesemakers work closely with local dairy farmers to source high-quality raw milk. 

Making cheese with pasteurised milk 

• Food safety: Pasteurisation involves heating the milk to kill harmful bacteria. Overall, this process can reduce the risk of foodborne illnesses associated with raw milk consumption. Moreover, it also increases the shelf life of the cheese. 
• Consistency: Pasteurised milk provides more consistent results in terms of flavour and texture. Hence, it is a good choice for beginners and commercial cheese production. 
• Legal and regulatory compliance: In many places, using pasteurised milk is the safest and most convenient option because it complies with food safety regulations. 

Should you use raw or pasteurised milk?

Ultimately, the decision between raw and pasteurised milk should consider both safety and flavour preferences. If you have access to high-quality, clean raw milk and are comfortable with the associated risks, you should use it.  

However, if you’re just starting with cheesemaking or if raw milk is not readily available or regulated in your area, pasteurised milk is a reliable and safe choice. 

Regardless of the type of milk you use, proper sanitation and hygiene practices are crucial to produce safe and delicious cheese.

Whole milk vs. skim milk 

Next, we have the choice between whole (full-fat) milk and skim (low-fat) milk for cheesemaking. While both whole and skim milk can be used in cheesemaking, they will yield different results. 

Making cheese with whole milk 

• Flavour and texture: Whole milk contains a higher percentage of fat, which contributes to a creamier and richer texture in the cheese. It also imparts a fuller, more luxurious flavour. 
• Cheese types: Whole milk is commonly used for making cheeses like Cheddar, Brie, Gouda and many other varieties that benefit from a full-bodied flavour and creamy texture. 
• Fat content: The fat content in whole milk is typically around 3.25% or higher. 

Making cheese with skim milk 

• Lower fat content: Skim milk has had most or all of its fat removed, resulting in a lower fat content (usually around 0.1% to 0.5%). 
• Cheese types: Skim milk is often used for making cheeses like Cottage Cheese, Ricotta, and some types of low-fat or reduced-fat cheeses. It produces cheeses with a leaner and less creamy texture. 
• Whey proteins: Skim milk cheeses may have a slightly different protein profile due to the absence of fat, which can affect the final texture and meltability of the cheese. 

Which cheeses can you make?

The choice between whole and skim milk should align with the specific cheese you are making. Many recipes will specify the type of milk to use.  

Some cheeses, like traditional Cheddar, benefit from the richness of whole milk. On the other hand, others like Cottage Cheese, are traditionally made with skim milk for a leaner texture. 

Keep in mind that you can also use partially skimmed milk (2% or 1%) to strike a balance between whole and skim milk characteristics. Experimentation with different milk types and fat levels can lead to unique flavours and textures, so feel free to explore and tailor your cheesemaking to your preferences. 

Homogenised vs. non-homogenised milk 

The choice between homogenised and non-homogenised milk for cheesemaking depends on the type of cheese you are producing and your desired outcome. Both types of milk can be used, but they can yield different results in terms of cheese texture and fat distribution.  

Using homogenised milk 

• Definition: Homogenisation is a process that breaks down fat globules in milk into smaller, uniform particles. This process prevents the cream from separating and rising to the top of the milk, resulting in a consistent fat distribution throughout the milk. 
• Cheese texture: Homogenised milk produces a softer curd which results in cheeses with a more uniform texture and a smoother mouthfeel. If the curd is too soft to form cheese, you can add calcium chloride.
• Cheese types: Moreover, homogenised milk is commonly used in many commercial cheese production processes because it provides consistent results. It is suitable for various cheese types, including Ricotta, Feta and processed cheeses. 

 Using non-homogenised milk 

• Definition: Non-homogenised milk retains the natural separation of cream, which rises to the top of the milk. It has larger fat globules that may form a cream layer. 
• Cheese texture: Non-homogenised milk can produce cheeses with a more rustic or uneven texture, and the cream layer may contribute to a richer flavour in some cases. 
• Cheese types: Non-homogenised milk is often preferred for traditional, artisanal and farmhouse-style cheeses. It is used for cheeses like Cream Cheese, farmstead Cheddar and most specialty cheeses. 

Which types of cheese can you make?

The choice between homogenised and non-homogenised milk can influence the texture, mouthfeel and flavour of your cheese. If you are aiming to replicate traditional or artisanal cheese styles, non-homogenised milk might be the better choice. 

However, if you are looking for consistency and uniformity, homogenised milk can be a good option. 

Ultimately, the decision depends on your preferences and the specific cheese you want to make. You can experiment with both types of milk to see how they affect the characteristics of your homemade cheese and choose the one that aligns best with your desired outcome. 

Fresh milk vs. powdered milk 

In cheesemaking, whether you should use fresh milk or powdered milk depends on your circumstances, the type of cheese you’re making, and your preferences. Both fresh milk and powdered milk can be used, and each has its advantages and considerations. 

Making cheese with fresh milk 

• Definition: Fresh milk is milk that has not undergone any dehydration process and is typically used directly from the cow, goat, sheep or other milk-producing animals. 
• Advantages: Fresh milk can provide a more natural and authentic flavour to your cheese. It is a common choice for traditional and artisanal cheesemaking. The quality of the milk, its freshness, and its source are critical factors. 
• Considerations: Fresh milk can be more challenging to obtain, especially if you don’t have access to a dairy farm. It also has a shorter shelf life compared to powdered milk, so it should be used promptly. 

Making cheese with powdered milk 

• Definition: Powdered milk is milk that has been dehydrated, removing the moisture content. It is available in various forms, including instant, non-fat and whole milk powder.
• Advantages: Powdered milk has a longer shelf life and can be more convenient to store and use. It is also readily available in many grocery stores, making it accessible for cheesemakers. It can be a consistent source of milk year-round. 
• Considerations: Some cheesemakers believe that powdered milk may lack the depth of flavour and complexity that fresh milk provides. Furthermore, the type of powdered milk you choose (whole or non-fat) can influence the final flavour and texture of the cheese. 

Which one should you use?

When deciding between fresh milk and powdered milk, consider the following: 

• Cheese type: Some cheeses, especially traditional and artisanal varieties, benefit from the use of fresh milk to achieve their distinctive flavours and textures. However, powdered milk can work well for many cheese types, particularly when fresh milk is not readily available. 
• Quality: If you choose to use fresh milk, ensure it comes from a clean and reliable source. The quality of the milk directly affects the quality of the cheese.
• Convenience: Powdered milk is convenient, has a longer shelf life, and is more accessible in urban areas or where fresh milk isn’t readily available.
• Flavour preferences: Consider your personal preferences for cheese flavour and texture when making your choice. 

Ultimately, you can experiment with both fresh milk and powdered milk to see which one produces the cheese characteristics you desire. As always, it’s essential to follow a trusted cheesemaking recipe and technique, whether you use fresh or powdered milk, to achieve the best results. 

Can you make cheese with UHT milk? 

Yes, it is possible to make cheese with UHT (Ultra-High Temperature) milk, but it can be more challenging than using fresh pasteurised milk or raw milk.  

UHT milk has undergone an intense pasteurisation process where it is heated to a very high temperature for a short period to kill bacteria and extend shelf life. This process alters the milk’s proteins and can affect its ability to coagulate and form curds, which are essential for cheese production. 

Here are some considerations and tips if you want to attempt cheesemaking with UHT milk: 

Select the right cheese types

Some cheeses are more forgiving when using UHT milk than others. Acid-set cheeses like Paneer, Labneh or Quark may be more successful than aged, hard cheeses. UHT milk is generally not recommended for cheeses that rely on complex bacterial and enzymatic activity for flavour development. 

Use calcium chloride

UHT milk may lack the calcium content needed for proper curd formation. Adding calcium chloride as a supplement can help improve curd structure. 

Adjust coagulation times:

Due to the altered protein structure in UHT milk, you may need to adjust coagulation times. It might take longer for the milk to set, so be patient. 

Choose the right starter cultures and rennet:

Select starter cultures and rennet appropriate for the type of cheese you’re making and consider those that work well with UHT milk. 

Temperature control

Maintain precise temperature control during the cheesemaking process, as UHT milk may be more sensitive to temperature variations. 

Expect variability

UHT milk can produce more variable results compared to fresh pasteurised milk. You may need to experiment and adjust your cheesemaking process to achieve consistent results. 

Additives

Some cheesemakers choose to add specific additives or enhancers like lipase to improve the texture and flavour of cheese made with UHT milk. 

While it’s possible to make cheese with UHT milk, it may not yield the same results as cheese made with fresh pasteurised milk or raw milk.  

Traditional cheesemaking often relies on the natural characteristics of milk, which can be altered by the UHT process. If you’re new to cheesemaking, you might want to start with fresh pasteurised milk or non-UHT milk rather attempting it with UHT milk. 

Conclusion 

In the world of cheesemaking, the choice of milk is a crucial step that should align with your cheesemaking goals and preferences.  

The type of milk you select—be it from cows, goats, sheep, or other sources—raw or pasteurised, whole or skim, homogenised or non-homogenised, and fresh or powdered—will all contribute to the character of your final creation.  

By understanding these factors and experimenting with different milk types, you can embark on a delicious journey to craft cheeses that suit your palate and style. Remember to follow trusted recipes and techniques for the best results in your cheesemaking endeavours. 

What’s your favourite type of milk for cheesemaking? Let us know in the comments below. 

Jonah Kincaid

Cheese lover. Scientist. Created a website and a Youtube channel about cheese science because he could not find answers to his questions online. 

cheesescientist.com

The post What is the Best Type of Milk for Cheesemaking?  appeared first on Cheese Scientist.

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Invention of pasteurisation

The origins of pasteurisation can be traced back to the mid-19th century when French microbiologist Louis Pasteur conducted experiments to prove the germ theory of disease. In the course of his experiments, Pasteur discovered that heating wine to a certain temperature could kill the microorganisms responsible for its spoilage.

This process, which would eventually be named after him, was soon adopted by the wine industry. 

However, it was not until several years later that pasteurisation was applied to the milk industry. In the late 1800s, raw milk was a common source of disease, particularly bovine tuberculosis, which was spread through the consumption of contaminated milk.

But it was not until the early 1900s that pasteurisation became a standard practice in the milk industry. 

Different types of pasteurisation

Milk pasteurisation involves heating milk to a specific temperature for a specific period of time to kill harmful microorganisms. Currently, there are four main types of pasteurisation used in the dairy industry. 

HTST (Flash) pasteurisation

The most common method of pasteurisation is known as high-temperature short-time (HTST) pasteurisation. Flash pasteurisation involves heating milk to a temperature of 72°C (161°F) for 15 seconds.

Because it is cheaper and more time efficient, HTST is often the preferred method of pasteurisation for large-scale commercial cheesemakers. 

Effectively, HTST successfully destroys harmful bacteria, including Salmonella, Listeria and E. coli. But it is also detrimental to the natural flora in raw milk which plays a crucial role in cheesemaking. 

LTLT (Batch) pasteurisation

Low-temperature long-time (LTLT) pasteurisation involves heating the milk to 63°C for 30 minutes and then cooling it. In consequence, batch pasteurisation is less damaging to the milk’s bacteria and may result in better cheesemaking results.  

However, it requires more time and energy than HTST pasteurisation. Because of its gentler effect on milk, LTLT is favoured by the majority of small-scale and artisanal cheesemakers. However, it still has a negative impact on the natural flora of milk. And this leads us to the next type of “pasteurisation”

Thermalisation

Thermalisation is a milder form of milk treatment that falls between raw milk and pasteurised milk. It is a process of heating the milk to a lower temperature than HTST and LTLT for a more extended period (usually between 57°C and 68°C for 15 to 30 seconds).  

This temperature range is sufficient to kill some harmful bacteria but not all. As a result, this process preserves more of the natural bacterial flora present in raw milk. And allows the cheesemaker to craft cheese that better expresses the local terroir.  

Thermalisation is often used by small-scale cheesemakers and dairy farmers who are looking for a compromise between raw milk and pasteurised milk. Having said that, bodies like the FDA still consider thermized milk to be raw milk.

As such, all cheesemakers who use thermalisation have to abide by the 60 Day Rule. 

UHT pasteurisation

The final method of pasteurisation is known as ultra-high-temperature (UHT) pasteurisation. This involves heating milk to a temperature of 135°C (275°F) for a very short period of time (a few seconds) and then rapidly cooling it.  

Presently, UHT pasteurisation is commonly used for milk that will be stored at room temperature, such as boxed long-life milk or canned milk. However, this process renders milk unsuitable for cheesemaking. 

Effect of pasteurisation on cheesemaking

Milk pasteurisation has had a significant effect on the production of cheese. While it has certainly contributed to safer commercial cheesemaking, there have also been a number of negative impacts. Let’s have a look at some of the main ones.

Loss of milk microflora

Prior to the widespread adoption of pasteurisation, cheesemakers relied on natural bacteria and other microorganisms present in raw milk to initiate fermentation. This process, known as “ripening,” is critical to the development of cheese’s flavour and texture. 

With the introduction of pasteurisation, many cheesemakers found it more challenging to produce cheese with the same complex flavour and texture. This is because pasteurisation destroys not only harmful bacteria but also beneficial bacteria and enzymes. 

As a result, some cheesemakers have turned to alternative methods to introduce beneficial bacteria to their cheese, such as using starter cultures. Commercial starter cultures are a carefully selected blend of bacteria and yeast that are added to milk before the cheesemaking process begins.

Effectively, these cultures help to initiate the fermentation process and can produce cheeses with consistent flavours and textures. And this leads us to our next point. 

Commodification of cheese

One other result of pasteurisation is the standardisation of milk and dairy products. By removing the identity of the milk and its unique microflora, cheese became a commodity in most developed countries.  

Those generic products could be sold at a standard price and pushed producers to compete on that price. Consequently, the market rewarded those who could produce cheese cheaper, and faster.  

Accordingly, artisanal small-batch cheesemakers found the market conditions to be very challenging in north American and Australia. Fortunately, we’ve seen a more positive change in more recent times. 

Decline in animal care

Finally, the increased reliance on pasteurisation has also contributed to a decline in animal care. 

One reason for this decline is that pasteurisation has reduced the importance of raw milk quality in the production of dairy products. In the past, farmers were incentivised to produce high-quality milk because poor milk quality could lead to spoilage or contamination.

However, with pasteurisation, many of the issues associated with poor milk quality can be mitigated, leading to a decreased focus on animal care. 

Additionally, pasteurisation has made it easier for large-scale producers to consolidate and streamline their operations, leading to the industrialisation of animal agriculture. This shift has resulted in the use of confinement systems, reduced access to pasture and grazing, and increased use of antibiotics and hormones. 

Reduction in calcium content of milk

Finally, pasteurisation can reduce the availability of calcium ions in milk. During pasteurisation, milk is exposed to high temperatures, which can cause the natural calcium to bind to casein proteins less effectively. This is because heat causes structural changes in the milk’s proteins, altering the calcium balance.

As a result, much of the calcium shifts from a soluble (ionized) form, which is essential for curd formation, to an insoluble form. This change in calcium availability affects the milk’s ability to coagulate properly during cheesemaking, leading to weaker curds.

Summary: pasteurised vs raw milk

Milk pasteurisation is an essential process in cheesemaking that has played a significant role in ensuring the safety and quality of dairy products. While it has some positive effects, such as eliminating harmful bacteria and standardising milk composition, it can also have a number of negative effects on cheesemaking. 

Cheesemakers must balance the benefits and drawbacks of pasteurisation when producing cheese products. Are you a professional cheesemaker? We’d love to hear your thoughts on pasteurised vs raw milk in cheesemaking. Please drop us a comment below. 

Jonah Kincaid

Cheese lover. Scientist. Created a website and a Youtube channel about cheese science because he could not find answers to his questions online. 

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The post Milk Pasteurisation: Effect on Cheesemaking (Good, Bad & Ugly) appeared first on Cheese Scientist.

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1. Appleby’s Cheshire

Cheshire is a dense and crumbly British territorial cheese that comes from Cheshire and four neighbouring counties. Remarkably, Cheshire was once the most popular and significant cheese in England.

Indeed, the pressed uncooked cheese dominated the London market in the 17th and 18th centuries. But the advent of industrialisation would change all of that as cheaper and more efficient Cheddars took over the marketplace. 

Appleby’s Cheshire is currently the only raw milk, clothbound farmhouse Cheshire still in production in Britain. Using the milk of their small herd of Friesian cows, the Applebys make both a white Cheshire and their signature orange Cheshire.

On their farm, they use morning and evening milk together with a home-produced starter culture.

The production is similar to Cheddar except that the curds are cut into blocks and broken, rather than being stacked and flipped. And they achieve the orange colour of their Cheshire by adding the natural dye, annatto. 

The ageing process for their cheese lasts between six weeks to 10 months, depending on the size of the wheel. A mature Appleby’s Cheshire is firm, yet moist and flaky. Overall, the cheese shows rich and mineral flavours with savoury notes of grass.

We recommend pairing this beautiful cheese with a glass of local dark ale.

2. Appleby’s Double Gloucester

Next, we’ve got a second raw milk cheese from Edward and Christine Appleby’s farm, their Double Gloucester. Gloucester is a traditional pressed uncooked cheese that finds its roots in the Gloucestershire in the 16th century.

Single Gloucester is made from partly skimmed milk whereas Double Gloucester uses whole fat milk taken from both morning and evening milking. 

Using a 300-year-old recipe, head cheesemaker Garry Gray crafts a Double Gloucester that is less acidic and smoother in texture than their Cheshire. As is the case with their signature Cheshire, they add the natural dye annatto to impart an orange colour to the cheese’s paste.

Overall, the two recipes are quite similar except for variations in timing, temperature and acidity of the curd. It takes around 4 hours 20 minutes, at a temperature of up to 38.9°C (102°F), for the milk to reach the correct acidity after renneting.

At this point, they cut the curds, press them for 48 hours and wrap the cheese in cloth. Maturation can last up to eight weeks. 

At this age, Appleby’s Double Gloucester develops a firm but moist texture. Its flavours are reminiscent of warm buttered toast with subtle notes of minerals and salt. Also, watch out for a long, tangy finish.

This Double Gloucester pairs beautifully with light-bodied reds such as Pinot Noir and Zinfandel or even a white like Sancerre. If you prefer pairing with beer, this raw milk beauty matches well with a number of local ales.

3. Hafod Welsh Cheddar

Hafod is a clothbound Cheddar made from raw cow’s milk by the Holden family on their organic farm, Bwlchwernen Fawr. The milk from their own herd of 75 Ayrshire cows is rich and creamy and perfect for cheesemaking.

Moreover, Hafod is a Welsh word that means summer pasture. And looking after the pasture is key to producing the highest quality cow’s milk from their herd. 

To make Hafod, the cheesemaker uses traditional century-old methods which involve slow cheddaring. For starters, they add a yoghurt culture to the milk and leave the sheets of curd to sit until evening. Come evening, they start milling. Overall, this slow process produces elastic, silky and smooth curds which have a deep buttery aroma.

Afterwards, the cheesemaker salts the curds and packs them into cloth-lined cylinders to be pressed. The resulting 10kg and 18kg rounds are matured for a minimum of 10 months. 

At this age, the cheese truckles develop a mouldy rind around a rich and buttery golden paste. Moreover, the cheese’s aroma is reminiscent of hay and the flavour grassy and nutty, with a hint of onion.

It is quite common for the cheese to contain naturally occurring blue veins which add a bit of character and depth of flavour. Enjoy this Welsh wonder with a fruity, malty Pale Ale. 

4. Isle of Mull Cheese

The fourth cheese on our list is the first entry from Scotland. Indeed, Isle of Mull is a quintessentially Scottish Cheddar made from the raw milk of Friesian cows. As its name indicates, the cheese comes from the Isle of Mull in the Inner Hebrides. The island lies off the west coast of Scotland and is close to a very famous neighbour, the Isle of Skye.

The island’s terroir plays a significant role in shaping this pressed uncooked cheese. Indeed, the soil, air, grass and weather all shine through in the final product. 

During the summer months, their cows graze freely on the property’s rich pastures. On the other hand, during winter, they feed on hay and a supplement of fermented grain from a local distillery.

While the summer milk produces a cheese that is grassy, the winter versions are deeply flavoursome and complex. Once set and moulded, the wheels are matured in an underground cellar for up to 18 months.  

A mature Isle of Mull cheese develops a rich, brothy and boozy flavour profile. Similar to Hafod, the truckles often present with a slight blue veining, which adds to the complexity of the cheese. As for the texture, you can expect something a bit waxy.

If you want to eat this cheese like the locals, melt a slice on top of wholemeal toast and serve it with a sweet onion chutney. 

5. Keen’s Cheddar

Keen’s Cheddar is the third British raw milk Cheddar coming to Australia from July 2022. This particular cheese has been made by the Keen family for three generations in the birthplace of Cheddar, Somerset.

Indeed, they’ve been making raw milk cheese at their family farm, Moorhayes since 1899. To this day, they use the West Country tradition of larding and cloth binding. 

Being farmhouse cheesemakers, the Keens use the raw milk from their own cows to make cheese within 12 hours of milking. The milk travels 50 yards to their dairy and is not tampered with in any way. Moreover, they use a “pint” starter culture and the hands-on process of cheddaring to drain the whey.

Finally, they wrap each wheel in muslin cloth and rub them in lard. The clothbound cheese is then stowed in wooden shelves in their cellar to mature from 11 months to two years.   

A two-year-old Keen’s Cheddar has a hard, crumbly texture with a surprisingly fresh grassy flavour. Watch out for a hint of spiciness. Pair it with your favourite India Pale Ale, British or American. Or you can try a glass of Pinot Noir, Beaujolais, Syrah, Port, Zinfandel, Chardonnay, or Chenin Blanc.

Finally, you can grate Keen’s Cheddar over pan-fried mushrooms on toast. 

6. Kirkham’s Lancashire

Our next British territorial is Lancashire, from the county of Lancashire (surprise, surprise…). Lancashire is a cow’s milk cheese that is currently available in three variants, young Creamy Lancashire, mature Tasty Lancashire and the more commercial Crumbly Lancashire.

In 1939, there are more than 200 farmhouse producers of Lancashire cheese in operation.  

Today, the Kirkhams are the last ones standing. Indeed, Graham Kirkham is a third-generation cheesemaker following in his family’s footsteps to make raw milk Lancashire. The Kirkham family currently make both Creamy (aged up to 12 weeks) and Tasty (aged over 12 weeks) Lancashire cheese.

To make a traditional Lancashire, Graham uses curds from several milkings. As a matter of fact, this is a highly unusual approach and his Lancashire is the only British territorial that is made this way. The recipe involves combining curds from several days and is very time-consuming. 

During maturation, Kirkham’s Lancashire develops a texture that is closer to the crumbly side of ‘buttery crumble’ and some flavours that are more upfront and punchier. You can expect a buttery, yoghurty flavour with a fluffy and light texture that melts in the mouth.

Serve chunks of Lancashire with warm Eccles cakes. Also, this cheese is an excellent addition to grilled cheese toasties. 

7. Lincolnshire Poacher

The east coast of England is far from being a cheesemaking hotspot. But it is home to one of Britain’s most surprising raw milk cheeses. And from July 2022, Australians will be able to enjoy Lincolnshire Poacher.

The loamy and clay soils of eastern England do not make for great dairy farming but Simon Jones’s Ulceby Grange Farm is fortunate enough to have lush pastures on chalky land. The Joneses have owned the farm since 1917 but only started making cheese in the 1990s.  

Upon his return from agricultural college, a young Simon Jones enlisted the help of renowned Welsh cheesemaker Dougal Campbell to develop a new cheese. Simon wanted to subtly introduce the qualities of a pressed mountain cheese like Comté into a traditional West Country Cheddar.

Using the raw milk of their Holstein Friesian cows, the cheesemaker crafts wheels of Lincolnshire Poacher. Once they’ve moulded the curds, they salt and press the truckles for 36 hours. Finally, they age the formed cheeses on wooden boards for up to 36 months.  

Depending on the cheese’s age, you can expect notes of tropical fruits and warm mountain flavours reminiscent of Comté. Lincolnshire Poacher is excellent melted on top of buttered crumpets as an alternative to cheese on toast. 

8. Montgomery’s Cheddar

Montgomery’s Cheddar is a clothbound pressed cheese from North Cadbury in Somerset, England. Actually, the Montgomery family have been making this Cheddar at Manor Farm for three generations now. Jamie Montgomery’s grandfather, Sir Archibald Langman, established the family farm in 1911.

While many other cheesemakers shut down during the World Wars, they persevered with making their amazing Cheddar. 

In North Cadbury, the locals have become accustomed with seeing the farm’s 200 Friesian cows coming in from the fields for milking daily. In fact, Jamie and his small team look after their herd with the utmost care. As a result, they produce milk of an exceptional quality that is perfect for cheese making.

Using a traditional cheddaring method, the cheese makers form the 25kg truckles. Afterwards, they wrap them in muslin cloth and mature each cheese for a minimum of 12 months on wooden shelves. 

The flavour of Montgomery’s Cheddar actually varies remarkably depending on the day of the week that it is made on. The reason for this is because they change the starter culture that they use every day over the course of a week. As such, this unique Cheddar’s flavour can range from meaty and brothy to sweet and fruity.

Enjoy this one with an equally complex red wine such as a Malbec, Pinot Noir or Cabernet Sauvignon. 

9. Sparkenhoe Red Leicester

Red Leicester is a traditional English cheese also known as Leicestershire. Historically, all Red Leicester was made in the county of Leicestershire using raw cow’s milk. Because it has a longer shelf life than soft and blue cheeses, it was a favourite of Stilton makers. Indeed, they would use their surplus milk to make Red Leicester.

With the industrial revolution, production of this cheese shifted to a more commercial style and raw milk was replaced with pasteurised milk. 

When David and Jo Clarke took over Sparkenhoe Farm, they decided to revive a recipe that had been extinct for more than 50 years. In 2005, they set out to make a traditional, clothbound Red Leicester using the raw milk of their Holstein-Friesian cows.

Using a recipe they found in an old book, the Clarkes add animal rennet and annatto to coagulate and dye their fresh unpasteurised milk. Afterwards, they wrap each wheel of cheese in cloth and lard. 

As Red Leicester matures, its texture dries and its flavour strengthens and deepens. You can expect a flavour palette ranging from savoury, smooth and mellow, to nutty and rich. And the cheese’s texture is succulent but chewy.

Elevate a white sauce with a generous grating of Sparkenhoe Red Leicester. 

10. St Andrew’s Anster

Cheese number 10 is truly a Scottish original. Indeed, St Andrew’s Anster is a handmade raw milk cheese that finds its home in Fife, Scotland. For over 50 years, Jane Stewart and her partner Robert have been farming in Fife. 

In 2007 they decided to make cheese with the high-quality raw milk from their home-bred herd of Holstein-Friesian cows. So, they created the St Andrews Farmhouse Cheese Company. 

After taking a cheesemaking course at Reading University, Jane travelled to southwest England and Wales to learn more about the industry. Upon her return to the farm, she worked with Robert to create Anster, a cheese named after the nickname of nearby fishing village, Anstruther.

The recipe for Anster is inspired by the crumbly lactic cheeses of northern England, namely Cheshire and Wensleydale.  

After maturing for eight weeks, Anster develops a dry, crumbly texture with milky and fresh flavours. Without a doubt, the high-quality milk shines through in the final cheese.

Some of the notes your palate will detect include citrus, mushroom and wooden cellar. Anster is best enjoyed with some crusty fresh bread and a glass of a local cider. 

11. St Andrew’s Farmhouse Cheddar

Our next cheese is another offering from St Andrews Farmhouse Cheese Company. St Andrew’s Farmhouse Cheddar is an aged pressed uncooked cheese that is made once again with the raw milk of Holstein-Friesian cows. As we explained above, Jane Stewart’s first cheese was Anster.

But when she was trying to sell Anster at local farmers’ markets, she was struggling to get people’s attention because she had only one cheese. So, she decided to make a second cheese. 

Because Cheddar-making uses mostly the same small-scale equipment she had for Anster, it was an easy decision to make. So, Jane adapted a traditional Somerset recipe for Cheddar using original bacterial ferments, manual cheddaring methods and cloth binding.

The end result was St Andrew’s Farmhouse Cheddar and it was a match for some of Britain’s best Cheddars! 

Aged for up to 14 months, this clothbound Cheddar shares some similarities with another Scottish cheese on this list, Isle of Mull. The flavours are powerful and tangy with a touch of nuttiness and cream. Unsurprisingly, this cheese soon became a favourite on cheeseboards across the UK.  

12. Westcombe Cheddar

The final British raw milk cheese coming to Australia in 2022 is fittingly a Cheddar. Westcombe Cheddar has been made at Westcombe Farm in Somerset since the late 19th century.

After an extended foray into commercial block Cheddars from the 1970s, Richard Calver reverted the dairy to its traditional roots in 1999. Since then, they have moved away from mechanisation as much as possible. 

To make Westcombe Cheddar, they use fresh, raw milk from the farm’s herd of Dairy Shorthorns. Because of the short transit time, the milk is still warm when it reaches their vats. Indeed, the only ingredients they add to the milk are salt, rennet and a traditional starter culture.

Once the curds have drained, they cut, stack and turn the loaves by hand. Once the loaves are ready, they mill, salt and transfer them to Cheddar moulds for pressing. Finally, they wrap each wheel in muslin cloth and lard and allow them to age for up to 18 months. 

At this age, Westcombe Cheddar has a deep flavour with a mellow lactic tang and hints of hazelnut, caramel and citrus. Overall, its texture is quite firm with a smooth gradual breakdown which helps to release the flavours.

Undoubtedly, this is a spectacular table cheese but it also excels as an ingredient in cooking. Our personal favourite is to grate this Cheddar into scrambled eggs towards the end of cooking. 

Australia opens up to raw milk cheese

We are living in a very exciting era for artisanal cheese in Australia. The raw milk revolution started with Will Studd’s battle for Roquefort. And continued with local producers Pecora Dairy and Prom Country Cheese making their state’s first raw milk cheeses. 

And July 2022 marks the date when Australia opens up for British raw milk cheeses. We hope that you are as excited as we are! Let me know in the comments which one of the raw milk cheeses you are most looking forward to discover. 

Jonah Kincaid

Cheese lover. Scientist. Created a website and a Youtube channel about cheese science because he could not find answers to his questions online. 

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SEE ALSO: Why Stilton is no longer made with raw milk →

A humble cheesemonger in London

Will’s love story with cheese has humble beginnings in a food shop in London called Justin de Blank in the 1970’s. During his stint there, he learnt about the subtle flavours of freshly cut Gruyère and the layered aroma of Camembert de Normandie.

Will would go on to own 7 delis peppered around the West End of London.

In the 1980’s, Will sold his businesses and migrated to Australia with his wife and young family. Australia would provide a blank canvas for him to ply his trade and share his passion for raw milk cheese. And there were few cheeses that ignited his passion more than Roquefort. 

Roquefort: A raw milk sheep’s cheese from Aveyron

Roquefort is a traditional French blue cheese made in the Aveyron department. Undoubtedly, it is one of the world’s best-known cheeses and dates back to at least the 15th century. It bears an AOP stamp which protects its origin and production. 

The AOP dictates that this blue cheese can only be made in the Aveyron department. Furthermore, the wheels have to be matured in the natural Combalou caves of Roquefort-sur-Soulzon. Also, the cheesemakers have to exclusively use the unskimmed raw milk of Lacaune ewes. 

You can read more about the importance of raw milk cheese here. 

1994: The ban on all raw milk cheese

Until 1994, the Australian Quarantine and Inspection Service (AQIS) allowed the importation of raw milk cheeses. The only pre-requisite was that they were a minimum of 120 days old.

However, in 1994, AQIS passed a major change in their food standards which allowed only pasteurised milk to be used in cheesemaking. 

Pioneered by Louis Pasteur, pasteurisation involves heating milk to around 70°C or 160°F for around 15 seconds. Pasteurisation of milk removes all bacteria, the harmful and the good. While this process makes milk safer to drink, it does lead to a loss of identity. 

As a result of this ban, European classics such as Parmigiano Reggiano, Gruyère and Roquefort could not be imported to Australia anymore. As you can imagine, this was not a very popular decision. 

1998: Exemptions for Parmigiano Reggiano & Gruyère

Due to the subsequent barrage of diplomatic protest, a special exemption was granted for Swiss raw milk cheeses. As a result, in 1998, Australians could import and sell Gruyère, Emmentaler and Sbrinz. Soon after, they extended this exemption to include the Italian raw milk cheeses Parmigiano Reggiano and Grana Padano. 

Overall, those exemptions allowed the importation and sale of Swiss pressed cooked cheeses and other “very hard” cooked cheeses. The importer would have to provide proof that the cheese curds had been heated to a minimum of 47°C/118°F. Or that the cheese exhibited an “equivalent level of bacteria reduction.”

While the exemption satisfied the Italians and Swiss, the ban on Roquefort persisted. The reason for this was because Roquefort isn’t a cooked cheese and has a high moisture content.

2002: Will Studd imports 80kg of Roquefort

Due to the wording of the regulations, Will Studd saw an opportunity to challenge the ban on Roquefort. Could it be that this historical blue cheese is made in such a way that produces an “equivalent level of bacterial reduction”?  

In February 2002, Will Studd imported a special consignment of 80 kilograms of pre-tested Roquefort into Melbourne. Unsurprisingly, his shipment was stopped at the border by import police. And they ordered its destruction by deep burial because it did not meet FSANZ’s standards for raw milk cheese.

Furthermore, Will Studd’s request to test the cheese for bacterial levels at his own expense was also turned down. 

Will Studd: Cheese Terrorist

Despite the food safety body’s stance, Will Studd wasn’t ready to give up on his beloved Roquefort. The legal battle would rage on for more than a year during which time the shipment of cheese was stored in a government warehouse.

The local authorities even threatened Will with a $100,000 fine and up to 10 years in prison. 

To Will’s surprise, the National Dairy Authority and the chairman of the Australian Specialist Cheesemakers Association also publicly condemned his actions.

They claimed that Will was undermining the reputation of the local specialist cheese industry and branded him a “cheese terrorist”. 

2003: Roquefort, La Marseillaise & a public burial

From 2002 to 2003, the Roquefort waited patiently in storage while the legal battle raged on. In April 2003, Will Studd’s appeal was finally heard at the Administrative Appeals Tribunal in Melbourne. Six months later, they delivered the verdict.

Will had lost his case and they would not test the cheese. Their decision was final and stated that Roquefort violated the FSANZ (Food Standards Australia New Zealand) standards. 

As a result, they demanded that Will Studd either re-export or destroy the Roquefort by deep burial. So, he orchestrated a “faux funeral” and ceremoniously carried the 80kg of cheese to a landfill.

For added effect, he did this in the back of a black hearse draped in the French national flag. At the landfill, they unloaded the shipment into a dumpster to the sounds of “La Marseillaise”, France’s national anthem. 

2005: The ban on Roquefort is repealed

In March 2005, following an 18-month review, FSANZ finally published a lengthy report repealing the ban against Roquefort. Finally, they had given in to pressure from lobbyists like Will Studd, the French government and the Australian cheese loving public.

Undoubtedly, the Australian government’s prohibition had established a dangerous trade precedent that could be repeated in much larger markets such as the United States.  

2009-2020: Major changes in raw milk cheese regulations

While the battle for Roquefort was raging on, Will Studd also lodged an application with FSANZ to review the standards for the production and sale of raw milk cheese.

As a result, the regulating body announced some minor changes in regulations that would allow the production of pressed cooked cheeses in Australia. To meet those requirements, the cheesemaker would have to follow strict production and maturation standards. 

Bruny Island Cheese Company

In 2009, those changes enabled visionary cheesemaker Nick Haddow to craft Australia’s first raw milk cheese, Bruny Island Cheese Company’s Raw Milk C2. Nick and head cheesemaker Luke Jackson, started making C2 using the raw milk of their own cows. 

Pecora Dairy & Prom Country Cheese

10 years later, further changes to the restrictions were implemented that allowed the production and sale of uncooked raw milk cheeses. And in 2019, New South Wales’s Pecora Dairy launched Yarrawa, a raw milk pressed uncooked cheese make with their own sheep’s milk.

In 2020, Victoria’s Prom Country Cheese followed in their footsteps with their Moyarra Reserve. 

Will Studd: A cheese legacy

It is undeniable that the Australian artisanal cheese industry owes a lot to Will Studd. From his battles for raw milk cheese to his cheese education projects (be sure to check out Cheese Slices), he has left an indelible mark. 

Thank you for reading this Cheese Story. Would you like to see more posts like this one? Let me know in the comments below. 

Jonah Kincaid

Cheese lover. Scientist. Created a website and a Youtube channel about cheese science because he could not find answers to his questions online. 

cheesescientist.com

The post Will Studd: The Battle for Roquefort appeared first on Cheese Scientist.

SEE ALSO: The many reasons why raw milk cheese is so important →

Prom Country Cheese

Nestled amongst the rolling hills in South Gippsland’s lush Moyarra Valley, lies the Brandon family farm. The farm is home to a small herd of 150 grass-fed sheep which are cared for and milked by Bronwyn and Burke Brandon. 

And, on their farm, the couple also make some of Australia’s (and the world’s) best artisanal sheep’s milk cheeses. One such cheese is their signature blue cheese Venus Blue, which is where our story begins. 

Isolating cultures from Venus Blue

For a number of years, the Brandon’s had been exploring ways to craft cheeses that truly express the terroir of their South Gippsland farm. There were determined to celebrate the unique biology of their environment and encapsulate in time the changes in their milk between seasons. 

Their journey began with a collaboration with industry partners to isolate cheesemaking cultures from their raw milk in a laboratory. Without a doubt, their use of those culture contributed to the success of their Venus Blue. While they were running trials with those cultures, they also experimented with batches of raw milk cheese with were actually commercially prohibited at the time. 

A change in regulations

After years of lobbying from a small number of artisanal cheesemakers, FSANZ finally introduced new food safety regulations to allow the production of raw milk cheeses in Australia. However, they insisted on very strict guidelines that would be enforced ruthlessly.

After two years of product development and changes in their food safety plans and procedures, Prom Country Cheese were finally granted approval in March 2020 to produce a raw milk cheese. This raw milk cheese, which would later be known as Moyarra Reserve, would have to meet a very detailed brief. Furthermore, the farm’s milk would have to pass very strict hygiene testing and would have to come from healthy udders. 

The birth of Moyarra Reserve

Hence was born Moyarra Reserve, a semi-hard pressed cheese with a natural smear rind. When making Moyarra Reserve, Burke does not cook the milk or the curds at any stage of the production. Instead, he adds a pre-ripened mother culture right back to the milk at the dairy, as the raw milk flows from the udders into the vat. 

Consequently, the culture inoculates the milk with good bacteria which is the first thing to grow. Moreover, the team have to maintain the highest level of hygiene at the dairy. Indeed, they have to sanitise all the production equipment, and the ewes’ teats before milking. 

How the milk is handled

The food safety body dictates that the raw milk has to be processed within 24 hours of milking. Because of this, Burke adds morning milk to the previous evening’s milk and transfers it back to the cheesemaking vat immediately to be warmed back to body temperature. 

During curd formation, the milk has to meet specific pH parameters at every stage. Afterwards, Burke washes the stirred curds with warm water to control its acidity and create a silky, play-dough type texture. Finally, he allows the curds to rest at the bottom of the vat in a large block. 

After resting, the curd is cut and shaped into baskets to be pressed. This process gradually expels excess whey (liquid) and each wheel has to meet a maximum moisture percentage limit over the next 3 days. During that time, Burke regularly hand salts them with sea salt. 

The maturation process

After salting the young cheese, Burke tests the wheels for its physical properties. If the cheese can achieve the appropriate parameters of moisture, salt, natural lactic acid, temperature and age, it will deactivate any potentially harmful pathogens. Because of this, each wheel of Moyarra Reserve is matured at 12°C for over 5 months.  

Finally, at 5 months, Burke puts each wheel through a final round of extensive lab testing to guarantee that it is safe to eat. Overall, this process is very labour intensive and expensive, compared to pasteurised cheese. As a result, the cost of production, and retail price, is higher. 

What does Moyarra Reserve taste like?

Having said that, Burke firmly believes that the end result worth all the effort. And, we strongly agree with him. Indeed, Moyarra Reserve is unlike any other cheese, made in Australia or elsewhere. 

The cheese has a firm texture with the rare internal split. Its initial aroma and flavour are very vibrant, like the farm’s summer hay. As the flavour develops in your mouth, you can detect middle notes of milk and caramel. And its rind is beautifully earthy. 

Why farmhouse cheesemaking suits raw milk cheese

Being farmhouse cheesemakers, the Brandons are in direct control of the entire process, from milking to maturation. 

“Immersing ourselves into every aspect of the soil, pastures, sheep, milk and ripening environment is immensely satisfying.” 

Another example of a farm achieving excellent results with their raw milk cheeses is Pecora Dairy in New South Wales’s Southern Highlands. Indeed, Pecora Dairy was the first manufacturer in Australia to make raw milk cheese in this way. Some other producers, such as Bruny Island Cheese in Tasmania, make hard cheeses where the curds are cooked at high temperatures.  

Changing the Australian artisanal cheese landscape

We hope that you’ve enjoyed reading about Burke and Bronwyn Brandon’s journey to make Victoria’s first raw milk cheese. This is definitely an exciting time for the local artisanal cheese industry and we can’t wait to see what other cheesemakers will come up with. 

Now, tell me. What’s your favourite raw milk cheese?

Jonah Kincaid

Cheese lover. Scientist. Created a website and a Youtube channel about cheese science because he could not find answers to his questions online. 

cheesescientist.com

The post Victoria’s First Raw Milk Cheese  appeared first on Cheese Scientist.

SEE ALSO: Nine best Swiss cheeses that are guaranteed to knock your socks off →

History of Stilton

Let’s start with a quick history lesson. 

Actually, Stilton finds its origins in the early 1800’s. The exact date is still debated to this day. But, what we know for sure, is that artisans have been making this remarkable blue in the neighbouring counties of Nottinghamshire, Derbyshire and Leicestershire for the better part of two centuries. 

And, from day one, they used a very specific starter culture and, most importantly, local raw cow’s milk. Over the years, Stilton developed into a creamy, multi-dimensional blue that became a favourite for so many of us. 

1989 – Annus horribilis

However, little did we know that, in 1989, the cheese was about to change forever. 1989 was a horrendous year for the dairy industry in England. An outbreak of Listeria food poisoning was instantly attributed to the use of raw milk in making Stilton. 

While the connection between the two was never actually proven, Stilton producers were put on public trial and the industry was facing a looming crisis. 

A drastic decision by the SCMA

In order to save themselves, the Stilton Cheesemakers’ Association (SCMA) decided to start using pasteurised milk instead. Furthermore, they mandated that, for a cheese to bear the Stilton name, it had to be made with pasteurised milk. 

So, what does this actually mean for the cheese? 

The flow on effect of pasteurisation

Firstly, pasteurisation removes all the natural bacteria from the milk, the good and the bad. As a result, the cheese loses some of the characteristics that could be attributed to its terroir. 

Moreover, the original starter culture (called MT36) had to be changed to allow for the different microbial composition of the milk. Consequently, a significant number of steps in the production had to be altered to compensate for the change in milk and culture. 

The birth of a very different Stilton

Because of all of those changes, the Stilton we have now is actually quite different to the one that had been made up to 1989.  

Now, I want to emphasise that I am not saying that the current Stiltons are actually inferior to the traditional ones. Just that they are different. 

Raw milk Stilton, but under different names

So, now you know what happened to raw milk Stilton. Were you one of the lucky ones who got to taste Stilton before the change? 

If you answered no to this question, don’t despair. There are currently two raw milk blue cheeses that are made in England using the original starter culture. 

Because of the SCMA mandate, they weren’t allowed to use the name Stilton. So, the cheeses are named Stilchelton and Sparkenhoe Blue instead.

Jonah Kincaid

Cheese lover. Scientist. Created a website and a Youtube channel about cheese science because he could not find answers to his questions online. 

cheesescientist.com

The post What Happened To Raw Milk Stilton? appeared first on Cheese Scientist.

SEE ALSO: The reason why Stilton is not made with raw milk anymore  →

Raw milk vs unpasteurised milk

Before we delve into the many reasons why cheese made with raw milk is so important, let’s take a quick technical detour. Raw and unpasteurised are two terms that are often used interchangeably when referring to milk. But, as a matter of fact, they don’t mean the same thing.

Firstly, raw milk is not heat treated in anyway. On the other hand, unpasteurised milk might have been warmed or gently heated to temperatures below those used in pasteurisation (we’ll get back to this later).

Moreover, raw milk is also not refrigerated, fermented or cultured. It is freshly milked, kept at its natural temperature and not homogenised.

Is raw milk safe to drink?

Due to its nature, raw milk is only safe to drink if the strictest of farming practices are adhered to. Usually, this involves maintaining the highest standards for animal and teat/udder health. Consequently, the farmer is able to minimise the presence of pathogens such as Salmonella, Listeria and E.coli in the milk.

However, the unfortunate reality is that this is very rarely the case. Commercially available milk has to be pasteurised to meet food safety standards in most countries.

The effect of industrialisation

The main reason for this is industrialisation in the US, UK and western Europe. Due to dense development around city and urban hubs, there is no longer space for farming of any type near where consumers live. As a result of this, producers have to transport milk (and cheese) over very long distances.

Therefore, raw milk became more dangerous to drink because the levels of potentially harmful bacteria would rise with the prolonged transit time, poor hygiene and abusive animal husbandry practices.

What is pasteurisation?

The solution to this quandary was pasteurisation. Pioneered by Louis Pasteur, pasteurisation involves heating milk to around 70°C or 160°F for around 15 seconds. Pasteurisation of milk removes all bacteria, the harmful and the good. While this process makes milk safer to drink, it does lead to a loss of identity.

You can read more about the positive and negative effects of pasteurisation on cheese by clicking here.

Benefits of raw milk cheese

Across continents and generations, raw milk has been the foundation of traditional cheesemaking. Having said this, the reason why raw milk cheese is so important to this day goes well beyond the preservation of traditional methods.

Indeed, raw milk carries the microbial fingerprint of the region it comes from. Besides, any heat treatment (pasteurisation and even gentle heating like thermalisation) partially erodes or even completely erases that identity. 

The term used in the industry to describe this unique identity is terroir. While terroir also includes human practises and animal/human interactions, it all starts with the soil qualities, local flora and the milk.

Does raw milk cheese actually taste better?

We’ve talked extensively on how the use of raw milk creates unique cheeses in every region. But do raw milk cheeses actually taste better than pasteurised milk versions? Well, this is open to debate because the organoleptic attributes of taste are so subjective.

So, my answer to this question would be that all cheese that has been made with love and care will taste amazing. Indeed, there are pasteurised milk cheeses that I actually prefer to raw milk ones. The value of raw milk cheese is not in its taste but rather in its identity.

Making cheese with raw milk

So, how do we preserve those unique qualities in cheese? Without a doubt, the best way is to use raw milk. While raw milk cheeses are a mainstay in western European countries like France, Spain and Italy, they are much harder to find in north America and Australia.

The main reason for this is that cheese is often made on a small scale in those European countries, with more care given to the animals and production. With proper hygiene and sanitation practices in place, producers can handle raw milk in a safe manner to minimise harmful pathogens.

Effect of pasteurisation on cheesemaking

In most of the western world, cheese production grew with the industrial revolution and the invention of pasteurisation. Because of this, most dairy farms and cheesemakers invested in pasteurisation equipment. Furthermore, they organised their standard operative procedures around pasteurisation.

The most unfortunate consequence of this is that animal care and sanitation have suffered as a result of an over-reliance on pasteurisation to “clean up their mess”.

One other result of pasteurisation is the standardisation of milk and dairy products. By removing the identity of the milk and its unique microflora, cheese became a commodity in most developed countries. Those generic products could be sold at a standard price and pushed producers to compete on that price. Consequently, the market rewarded those who could produce cheese cheaper, and faster.

The “threat” of raw milk cheese

In the US and Australia, raw milk cheeses present a threat to the hegemony of companies that mass produce cheese. Because they can’t be standardised, they bring unparalleled diversity to the market place. Moreover, artisanal cheesemakers do more than just turn milk into cheese for a profit. They craft unique products to feed and nurture.

Because of this threat, bigger corporations have lobbied for stricter restrictions on the production and sale of raw milk cheeses. You can read more about what happened to raw milk Stilton by clicking here.

Approval for raw milk cheeses

Over the last 50 years, the majority of small scale producers in those countries have also been forced to invest in pasteurisation equipment. With the increased awareness and support for raw milk cheese, a number of those artisans are being tempted to change how they make cheese.

However, implementing such a change can be very cost and labour intensive. And reaching an agreement with local food safety bodies can be very tedious.

For that reason, while raw milk cheeses are common in Europe, they are very hard to find (if at all) in north America and Australia.

The FDA’s 60 Day Rule

According to the FDA, all raw milk cheeses have to undergo a minimum ageing period of 60 days at a temperature of 1°C (35°F) or higher. This ageing requirement is based on the debatable premise that 60 days is sufficient time for certain inherent safety mechanisms within the cheese to counteract the growth of harmful microbes.

Moreover, some of these natural safeguards include acid development, salt content and competing bacteria. Collectively, the FDA claims that they aid in preserving the cheese and preventing the growth of pathogens to some extent.

Presently, a number of European raw milk cheeses such as Brie de Meaux fall victim to the 60 Day Rule. As a result, the FDA has banned them for sale in the United States.

Summary: the politics of raw milk cheese

Thank you for reading our article on raw milk cheese. As you can guess, this is a topic that we are very passionate about.

We’d love to hear your thoughts on the politics of raw milk cheese. How can it be that a cheese that has been good enough for centuries in one country is banned in another? Drop us a comment below.

Jonah Kincaid

Cheese lover. Scientist. Created a website and a Youtube channel about cheese science because he could not find answers to his questions online. 

cheesescientist.com

The post Raw Milk Cheese: Tradition & Identity appeared first on Cheese Scientist.