There’s creamy. And then there’s structurally unnecessary levels of creamy.

If you’ve ever sliced into a bloomy rind and watched the centre gently surrender under its own weight, you’ve experienced what extra cream does to cheese architecture. The difference between double and triple cream is not subtle once you understand the mechanics.

This isn’t marketing language. It’s fat chemistry.

What “double cream” and “triple cream” actually mean

The terms refer to fat in dry matter, not total fat percentage.

A double cream cheese contains at least 60% fat in dry matter. A triple cream contains at least 75%, which is a serious structural shift.

Dry matter means the cheese minus its water content. Because soft cheeses contain a lot of moisture, the dry matter calculation gives a more accurate picture of how rich the solid portion really is.

Triple creams achieve this by adding extra cream to the milk before coagulation. Double creams may be enriched, but not to the same extreme.

That added cream weakens the protein network. And when you weaken structure, you create softness.

How fat in dry matter is actually calculated

Let’s make this practical.

Imagine a cheese that contains 50% moisture and 25% total fat by weight. That means the remaining 50% is dry matter. To calculate fat in dry matter, you divide fat by dry matter. In this case, 25 divided by 50 equals 50% fat in dry matter.

Now imagine a triple cream with 36% total fat and 48% moisture. The dry matter is 52%, so 36 divided by 52 gives roughly 69% fat in dry matter.

Push that number above 75%, and you are firmly in triple cream territory. The key insight is this: small increases in total fat create large changes in dry matter fat percentage. And those changes radically alter texture.

Why fat changes everything

Cheese is a protein matrix holding water and fat in place. Casein proteins form a web. Fat globules sit inside that web like cushions.

When you increase fat, you dilute the protein scaffolding. Less scaffolding means less resistance, which means greater softness and faster breakdown during ripening. Triple creams are engineered to approach structural collapse. Double creams still have enough protein density to hold shape longer.

One feels creamy. The other feels buttery.

Double cream soft cheeses

Let’s look at what most people encounter first: commercial Brie and Camembert.

Many supermarket Bries are double cream styles, enriched slightly to guarantee smooth texture and reliable ripening. They slice cleanly but soften beautifully at room temperature.

Commercial Camemberts often behave similarly, particularly pasteurised versions made for broader markets. They deliver richness without becoming mousse-like. They are balanced cheeses. Creamy, yes, but still structured.

Ultrafiltration double creams

Two modern examples are Fromager d’Affinois and Cambozola.

Fromager d’Affinois uses ultrafiltration to concentrate milk solids before cheesemaking. This creates a dense, smooth paste with exceptional uniformity.

The texture feels almost triple cream in its silkiness, but it technically sits within double cream parameters. It spreads easily but does not liquefy dramatically. Cambozola blends bloomy rind technique with blue mould veining. It is rich and supple, yet retains internal support from its protein structure and mould activity.

These cheeses show how technology can amplify creaminess without fully crossing into triple cream indulgence.

What double cream tastes like

Because double creams maintain slightly more protein structure, they often develop more savoury nuance.

You may detect mushroom, cabbage, or gentle nuttiness as proteolysis progresses. The fat is present, but it does not dominate entirely.

Commercial double creams are usually mild and broadly appealing. They are designed to be accessible and consistent. They are indulgent without being exhausting.

Triple cream soft cheeses

Now we enter intentional decadence.

Triple creams are made by adding generous amounts of cream to the milk. This pushes fat in dry matter above 75% and transforms the internal mechanics of the cheese.

The most iconic example is Brillat-Savarin. Brillat-Savarin is dense, buttery, and almost mousse-like when ripe. It spreads effortlessly and coats the palate in a way double creams rarely do.

Another classic is Saint André. Saint André is uniform and smooth, with a rich lactic sweetness and very thin rind. It softens rapidly and feels closer to cultured butter than traditional Brie.

Délice de Bourgogne is another benchmark. It is often lightly whipped during production, creating an airy yet intensely rich interior. When warmed slightly, it becomes luxuriously spoonable.

L’Explorateur offers a similar experience with slightly firmer body and gentle tang.

It retains more internal density than some triple creams, but still delivers unmistakable butteriness.

From the United States, Mt Tam by Cowgirl Creamery is frequently described as triple cream in style. It combines rich fat content with earthy mushroom character from rind development. It bridges indulgence and complexity.

These cheeses prioritise texture above all else.

Melt behaviour and room temperature strategy

Triple creams soften quickly at room temperature because fat transitions from solid to semi-fluid within typical serving temperatures.

Leave one out for thirty minutes and you may see dramatic slumping. Leave it out for an hour and you may need a spoon.

Double creams soften more gradually. They hold their shape longer and offer a wider serving window.

If you are hosting a large gathering, this matters. Triple creams demand timing. Double creams offer forgiveness.

Cheeseboard architecture

Think about sequence. Start with lighter textures and build toward richness. If you open with triple cream, everything afterwards can feel muted.

Place triple creams toward the end of the board’s tasting journey. Let double creams act as the transition between fresh cheeses and more assertive styles.

Balance is critical. Pair triple creams with acidity such as Champagne, dry cider, tart apples, or berries. Pair double creams more flexibly. They handle light reds, toasted nuts, honey, and earthy crackers without overwhelming the palate.

Myth busting

Myth one: triple cream is automatically better.

Not true. It is richer, not superior.

Myth two: triple cream always tastes stronger.

Often the opposite is true. High fat can mute savoury protein-driven flavours.

Myth three: double cream is just “less good” triple cream.

Also incorrect. Double creams often deliver more complexity and nuance because protein structure contributes more actively to flavour development.

Myth four: all soft white cheeses are double or triple cream.

Many traditional Brie and Camembert styles are neither. They sit below double cream thresholds and rely on ripening rather than enrichment for softness.

Reading cheese labels properly

Look for fat percentage on the nutrition panel. Then consider moisture if available.

If the cheese lists around 30–36% total fat and is very soft, it may be approaching triple cream levels. If it sits closer to 20–28%, it is likely double cream or below.

Also look for production descriptions. Words like “enriched with cream” often indicate movement toward double or triple cream territory. Ultrafiltration cheeses will often advertise their smoothness or consistency. That is a clue to concentrated milk solids and higher perceived richness.

When in doubt, press gently on the paste. Texture rarely lies.

Nutritional perspective

Triple creams are undeniably high in fat. That is their defining trait.

However, because soft cheeses contain significant moisture, calorie density per gram is not dramatically higher than many aged hard cheeses. The difference lies in behaviour. Triple creams are easy to overconsume because they spread and melt so effortlessly.

Double creams provide slightly more resistance. That resistance subtly moderates portion size.

Choosing intentionally

Choose double cream when you want balance, structure, and broader pairing flexibility.

Choose triple cream when you want impact, indulgence, and textural theatre.

Neither is superior. They are stylistic tools. One is creamy and composed. The other is buttery and lavish. And once you understand the structural science behind them, you stop choosing blindly and start choosing deliberately.

That’s when cheese becomes architecture instead of habit.

Jonah Kincaid

Cheese lover. Scientist. Created a website and a Youtube channel about cheese science because he could not find answers to his questions online. 

cheesescientist.com

The post Why Triple Cream Cheese Feels Like Butter (& Double Cream Doesn’t) appeared first on Cheese Scientist.

Origins of ultrafiltration

Ultrafiltration was developed as part of membrane separation technology in the 1960s, primarily for industrial and food processing applications. The dairy industry began applying UF to milk processing in the 1970s and 1980s, with researchers in the United States and Europe exploring its potential for improving efficiency and consistency in cheesemaking.

Since then, UF has become a staple in modern dairy production, particularly for soft and high-yield cheeses.

The science of ultrafiltration

Ultrafiltration is a membrane separation process that selectively retains larger molecules, such as proteins and fats, while allowing smaller molecules, like water, lactose, and minerals, to pass through. This process alters the composition of milk before it undergoes cheesemaking.

How it works

• Milk is forced through a semi-permeable membrane under pressure.
• The process divides the milk into two parts:
  • Permeate: The fraction that passes through the membrane, mostly water, lactose, and some minerals.
  • Retentate: The concentrated fraction, rich in proteins, fats, and essential cheesemaking components.
• The resulting retentate is a milk concentrate with a much higher protein-to-water ratio, making it ideal for efficient cheesemaking.

This technique provides greater control over milk composition, allowing cheesemakers to produce more consistent results in texture and flavour.

Advantages of ultrafiltration in cheesemaking

UF is widely used in industrial cheesemaking due to its ability to improve efficiency and enhance product quality. Let’s explore some of its major benefits:

1. Increased Efficiency and Higher Yields: Using UF, cheesemakers can produce more cheese per litre of milk. Since the milk is already concentrated, curd formation is more efficient, reducing whey production and increasing cheese yield.
2. Shortened Ageing Period: A major advantage of UF milk is that it reduces the ageing time needed for cheese maturation. Since UF concentrates proteins, it speeds up enzymatic reactions during ageing. This allows cheesemakers to produce aged-style cheeses in less time while maintaining their intended flavour and texture.
3. Extended Shelf Life: UF significantly improves the shelf life of cheese by reducing moisture content, which limits bacterial growth. This makes UF cheeses ideal for industrial production and distribution, as they remain fresher for longer periods.
4. Consistency in Cheesemaking: By removing variations in milk composition, UF ensures that cheesemakers have precise control over the final product. This is crucial for large-scale production, where uniformity is key to maintaining brand quality.
5. Reduced Lactose Content: Since ultrafiltration removes a portion of lactose in the permeate, cheeses made from UF milk naturally contain less lactose. This makes them more suitable for people with mild lactose intolerance.

Impact of ultrafiltration on flavour and texture

While UF improves efficiency and shelf life, it also changes the organoleptic properties of cheese—its flavour, texture and mouthfeel.

1. Flavour modifications

• Milder Taste: The removal of some lactose and minerals slightly reduces the intensity of natural flavours.
• Balanced Saltiness: Since minerals and salts influence taste, cheesemakers may need to adjust brining and seasoning to maintain the desired flavour profile.
• Controlled Fermentation: By using specific starter cultures, cheesemakers can compensate for flavour changes and ensure a well-rounded taste.

2. Texture and mouthfeel

• Creamier, Softer Cheeses: UF increases protein concentration, leading to a richer, smoother texture.
• Uniform Structure: The even distribution of proteins and fats prevents textural inconsistencies.
• Reduced Free Whey: Less water content means firmer cheeses that retain their structure better over time.

A case study: d’Affinois

A famous example of UF cheesemaking is Fromager d’Affinois, a French double-cream cheese known for its ultra-creamy texture and delicate flavour.

Why is d’Affinois so creamy?

Unlike traditional Brie, d’Affinois is made with UF milk, which concentrates the fat and protein. This creates an incredibly smooth, almost spreadable texture that melts effortlessly on the tongue.

Flavour and texture

• Mild, Buttery Taste: The UF process removes some lactose, reducing sweetness and allowing subtle creamy flavours to dominate.
• Thin, Delicate Rind: The cheese retains a soft, edible rind, contributing to its melt-in-the-mouth experience.

Why is d’Affinois’s rind thinner?

D’Affinois has a thinner rind compared to traditional Brie due to the ultrafiltration process used in its production. Here’s why:

1. Faster Moisture Loss During Ageing: Ultrafiltration removes excess water, leading to a more even and efficient moisture distribution in the cheese. A shorter ageing time means a thinner, more delicate rind compared to Brie.
2. Softer and Creamier Paste Affects Rind Formation: The UF process creates a high-moisture interior, affecting how the surface dries out. Traditional bloomy-rind cheeses like Brie allow for more moisture loss over time, leading to thicker rinds.
3. Altered Penicillium candidum Growth: The Penicillium candidum mould, responsible for bloomy white rinds, grows differently on UF cheeses. Since the paste is richer and softer, the mould spreads more evenly without forming a thick rind.
4. Shorter Affinage (Ageing) Period: Traditional Brie ages for 4–6 weeks, allowing its rind to develop fully. D’Affinois reaches peak ripeness much faster—often within two weeks—leaving less time for rind thickening.

This results in an ultra-thin rind that melts seamlessly into the cheese, enhancing its luxurious mouthfeel.

Storing ultrafiltration retentate as powder

One of the most practical applications of UF technology is converting retentate into a powdered form for long-term storage and transport.

How retentate is powdered

After ultrafiltration, the retentate can be dried using two main techniques:

1. Spray Drying: The liquid retentate is atomised into fine droplets and rapidly dried with hot air.
2. Freeze Drying: The retentate is frozen and then subjected to sublimation, removing moisture while preserving protein integrity.

Benefits of retentate powder

• Extended Shelf Life: The low moisture content prevents spoilage and microbial growth.
• Easier Transport: Powdered retentate is lightweight and non-perishable, making it ideal for global distribution.
• Versatility: It can be rehydrated and used for cheesemaking, protein fortification, or dairy-based food products.

Conclusion

Ultrafiltration is an innovative technology that enhances the cheesemaking process by improving efficiency, texture and shelf life while reducing lactose content. However, it also alters the sensory profile of cheese, requiring careful adjustments to maintain traditional characteristics.

The success of cheeses like Fromager d’Affinois demonstrates how UF can create luxurious, high-quality cheeses that balance science with artistry. Additionally, the ability to store UF retentate as powder opens new possibilities for global dairy production and supply chains.

As the dairy industry continues to evolve, ultrafiltration remains a key player in the future of cheesemaking—combining innovation with tradition to produce exceptional cheese experiences.

Jonah Kincaid

Cheese lover. Scientist. Created a website and a Youtube channel about cheese science because he could not find answers to his questions online. 

cheesescientist.com

The post Ultrafiltration in Cheesemaking: Science, Texture & Flavour appeared first on Cheese Scientist.

SEE ALSO: How ultrafiltration has changed the world of modern commercial cheesemaking →

What is Fromager D’Affinois?

Fromager d’Affinois is a soft white mould cheese from the Auvergne region of France. It is produced on a vast commercial scale and is often mistakenly referred to as Brie. As a matter of fact, D’Affinois has very little in common with Brie or Camembert other than the white mould around it.  

Indeed, D’Affinois is a double cream soft cheese that is made by adding cream to ultrafiltered milk during production. As a result, the cheese is very high in fat (around 60%) and develops a rich and creamy texture.

Moreover, Fromager d’Affinois is also unique because of the type of milk that it is made with. Indeed, Fromagerie Guilloteau use a patented technology called ultrafiltration to process their milk before they start turning it into cheese. 

Once made, the cheesemaker matures wheels and bricks of D’Affinois for around two weeks. During this time, it forms a natural white mould rind that is very thin and uniform. Furthermore, the cheese has an incredibly consistent creamy texture. As for its flavour, it is very mild (dare I say bland?) with the most subtle hint of butter. 

Pavé d’Affinois: the origin story

The d’Affinois story finds its humble beginnings in Rhône Alpes in the early 1980’s. Local cheese lover Jean Claude Guilloteau relocated to a small farmhouse with his wife to start working on a type of cheese that he hoped to disrupt the market with. Indeed, his inspiration was to bring together the local dairy farming tradition and commercial cheese production. 

The fruit of his hard work was Pavé d’Affinois, a soft cheese made using a method he had pioneered. Moreover, the name he chose for the cheese celebrated both the cobblestones in nearby Lyon (pavé) and the local Dauphiné region in south-eastern France.  

If you’re wondering how he went from Dauphiné to d’Affinois, we’ve got the answer for you. People who live in the Dauphiné region are called Dauphinois. And Jean Claude wanted a name that would also carry some cheesemaking tradition. So, he combined Dauphinois and affinage (the art of maturing cheese) to create the name d’Affinois. 

What is ultrafiltration?

Ultrafiltration is a method of separating milk components by passing it through a semi-permeable membrane. The process works by using a pressure difference to force the milk through the membrane, which separates the milk into two streams: a permeate stream and a retentate stream.  

The permeate stream contains the smaller, water-soluble molecules such as lactose, vitamins and minerals. On the other hand, the retentate stream contains the larger, protein-rich molecules such as casein and whey proteins. 

Advantages of using ultrafiltered milk in cheesemaking

So, now you know what ultrafiltration is, let’s have a look at its impact on milk and cheesemaking. 

Increased yield

By removing some of the water and lactose from the milk, the protein content of the milk is increased, which can lead to a higher yield of cheese. 

Improved consistency

Also, ultrafiltration can help to standardise the milk, resulting in a more consistent cheese product. This leads to a highly reproducible texture in soft cheeses such as Fromager D’Affinois or Pavé D’Affinois. And a very thin rind.

Shortened ageing period

Fromagerie Guilloteau’s flagship Fromager D’Affinois only ripens for two to three weeks compared to the traditional eight weeks required for Brie. The main reason for this is because the time required for draining water out of traditional cheeses is not required with this commercial product. 

Extended shelf life

Finally, ultrafiltration can reduce the bacterial count in the milk, which can help to extend the shelf life of the cheese. 

Disadvantages of making cheese with ultrafiltered milk

Unfortunately, it’s not all good news when it comes to ultrafiltration. There are a number of less than desirable characteristics in ultrafiltered milk and the cheese that is made with it. Moreover, it can have a negative effect on the industry and the ability for smaller scale producers to compete.  

Loss of flavour

Because ultrafiltration removes some of the water and lactose from milk, it can also remove some of the components that contribute to the flavour of cheese. This can lead to a less complex and less flavoursome cheese. 

Loss of nutritional value

Ultrafiltration can remove some of the water-soluble vitamins and major minerals that are naturally present in milk, resulting in a lower nutritional value of the cheese ¹. Some examples of such nutrients include Calcium, Magnesium, Potassium, Vitamin B and Vitamin C ². 

Cost

Furthermore, ultrafiltration equipment can be expensive to purchase and maintain, which can be a significant disadvantage for small cheesemakers. 

Dependence on technology

Undoubtedly, ultrafiltration is a process that relies heavily on technology. If the equipment breaks down or malfunctions, it can disrupt the cheesemaking process and lead to a loss of product. 

Impact on artisanal cheesemaking

Ultrafiltration is often used in industrial cheesemaking, and it can make it difficult for artisanal cheesemakers to compete on price and consistency with industrial cheesemakers. 

How much does Fromager D’Affinois cost?

Now this is where it gets very interesting! It would seem that this cheese has been positioned very differently depending on the market. Indeed, in France, it is considered a generic commercial cheese. Whereas in the USA and Australia, wholesalers and retailers have priced this cheese as a high-end product. 

You can read more about the price of d’Affinois around the world by clicking here.

Fromager d’Affinois FAQs

What type of cheese is Fromager d’Affinois?

Despite popular belief, d’Affinois is not a Brie. Indeed, it is a double cream soft white mould cheese that is made with ultrafiltered cow’s milk. 

Who makes Fromager d’Affinois?

Fromagerie Guilloteau makes Fromager d’Affinois as well as a number of other similar cheeses including Fleurette (goat’s milk), Le Campagnier (washed rind) and Bleu d’Affinois (blue cheese). 

What does d’Affinois mean?

Jean Claude Guilloteau invented this name as a combination of Dauphiné and affinage (the art of maturing cheese). 

Is d’Affinois made with powdered milk?

Fromager d’Affinois is made with Montbéliarde and Holstein cow’s milk that has been ultrafiltered. Ultrafiltered milk can be spray dried to produce a powder that is rich in protein and fat. Since Fromagerie Guilloteau use a patented production method, it is not known whether they completely remove the water from their ultrafiltered milk. 

What does d’Affinois taste like?

To be honest, there’s not much to report here. Your senses will detect mostly the luscious mouthfeel of this cheese. With an ultra-refined palate, you might notice some subtle notes of butter and salt. Moreover, this cheese and its rind do not have much of an aroma either. 

Is Fromager d’Affinois good for you?

Well, that is a complex question to answer. Due to its high fat and low carb content, it is a popular cheese for people following a ketogenic diet. However, due to its white mould, it is not suitable for pregnant cheese lovers. Moreover, ultrafiltered milk is lower in calcium, vitamins and minerals. As a result, it is not as nutritious as most other cheeses. 

Conclusion: not Brie but still hugely popular

Thank you for reading our post on Fromager d’Affinois. Regardless of your opinion on this commercial cheese, you can’t dismiss its popularity. Are you a d’Affinois lover or hater? Let me know in the comments.

References

¹ Science Direct: Ultrafiltration of cheese milk  

² National Library of Medicine: Water Soluble Vitamins  

Jonah Kincaid

Cheese lover. Scientist. Created a website and a Youtube channel about cheese science because he could not find answers to his questions online. 

cheesescientist.com

The post Fromager d’Affinois: The Impact of Ultrafiltration on Cheese appeared first on Cheese Scientist.