If you live in the USA or Australia, there is no doubt that you have come across Fromager d’Affinois. Indeed, this decadent soft cheese is one of the most common gateway cheeses into the world of artisanal cheese. But have you ever wondered what d’Affinois actually is? Read on to learn about the history of this cheese and the unique commercial method used to make it.
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What is Fromager D’Affinois?
Fromager d’Affinois is a soft white mould cheese from the Auvergne region of France. It is produced on a vast commercial scale and is often mistakenly referred to as Brie. As a matter of fact, D’Affinois has very little in common with Brie or Camembert other than the white mould around it.
Indeed, D’Affinois is a double cream soft cheese that is made by adding cream to ultrafiltered milk during production. As a result, the cheese is very high in fat (around 60%) and develops a rich and creamy texture.
Moreover, Fromager d’Affinois is also unique because of the type of milk that it is made with. Indeed, Fromagerie Guilloteau use a patented technology called ultrafiltration to process their milk before they start turning it into cheese.
Once made, the cheesemaker matures wheels and bricks of D’Affinois for around two weeks. During this time, it forms a natural white mould rind that is very thin and uniform. Furthermore, the cheese has an incredibly consistent creamy texture. As for its flavour, it is very mild (dare I say bland?) with the most subtle hint of butter.
Pavé d’Affinois: the origin story
The d’Affinois story finds its humble beginnings in Rhône Alpes in the early 1980’s. Local cheese lover Jean Claude Guilloteau relocated to a small farmhouse with his wife to start working on a type of cheese that he hoped to disrupt the market with. Indeed, his inspiration was to bring together the local dairy farming tradition and commercial cheese production.
The fruit of his hard work was Pavé d’Affinois, a soft cheese made using a method he had pioneered. Moreover, the name he chose for the cheese celebrated both the cobblestones in nearby Lyon (pavé) and the local Dauphiné region in south-eastern France.
If you’re wondering how he went from Dauphiné to d’Affinois, we’ve got the answer for you. People who live in the Dauphiné region are called Dauphinois. And Jean Claude wanted a name that would also carry some cheesemaking tradition. So, he combined Dauphinois and affinage (the art of maturing cheese) to create the name d’Affinois.
What is ultrafiltration?
Ultrafiltration is a method of separating milk components by passing it through a semi-permeable membrane. The process works by using a pressure difference to force the milk through the membrane, which separates the milk into two streams: a permeate stream and a retentate stream.
The permeate stream contains the smaller, water-soluble molecules such as lactose, vitamins and minerals. On the other hand, the retentate stream contains the larger, protein-rich molecules such as casein and whey proteins.
Advantages of using ultrafiltered milk in cheesemaking
So, now you know what ultrafiltration is, let’s have a look at its impact on milk and cheesemaking.
Increased yield
By removing some of the water and lactose from the milk, the protein content of the milk is increased, which can lead to a higher yield of cheese.
Improved consistency
Also, ultrafiltration can help to standardise the milk, resulting in a more consistent cheese product. This leads to a highly reproducible texture in soft cheeses such as Fromager D’Affinois or Pavé D’Affinois. And a very thin rind.
Shortened ageing period
Fromagerie Guilloteau’s flagship Fromager D’Affinois only ripens for two to three weeks compared to the traditional eight weeks required for Brie. The main reason for this is because the time required for draining water out of traditional cheeses is not required with this commercial product.
Extended shelf life
Finally, ultrafiltration can reduce the bacterial count in the milk, which can help to extend the shelf life of the cheese.
Disadvantages of making cheese with ultrafiltered milk
Unfortunately, it’s not all good news when it comes to ultrafiltration. There are a number of less than desirable characteristics in ultrafiltered milk and the cheese that is made with it. Moreover, it can have a negative effect on the industry and the ability for smaller scale producers to compete.
Loss of flavour
Because ultrafiltration removes some of the water and lactose from milk, it can also remove some of the components that contribute to the flavour of cheese. This can lead to a less complex and less flavoursome cheese.
Loss of nutritional value
Ultrafiltration can remove some of the water-soluble vitamins and major minerals that are naturally present in milk, resulting in a lower nutritional value of the cheese ¹. Some examples of such nutrients include Calcium, Magnesium, Potassium, Vitamin B and Vitamin C ².
Cost
Furthermore, ultrafiltration equipment can be expensive to purchase and maintain, which can be a significant disadvantage for small cheesemakers.
Dependence on technology
Undoubtedly, ultrafiltration is a process that relies heavily on technology. If the equipment breaks down or malfunctions, it can disrupt the cheesemaking process and lead to a loss of product.
Impact on artisanal cheesemaking
Ultrafiltration is often used in industrial cheesemaking, and it can make it difficult for artisanal cheesemakers to compete on price and consistency with industrial cheesemakers.
How much does Fromager D’Affinois cost?
Now this is where it gets very interesting! It would seem that this cheese has been positioned very differently depending on the market. Indeed, in France, it is considered a generic commercial cheese. Whereas in the USA and Australia, wholesalers and retailers have priced this cheese as a high-end product.
You can read more about the price of d’Affinois around the world by clicking here.
Fromager d’Affinois FAQs
What type of cheese is Fromager d’Affinois?
Despite popular belief, d’Affinois is not a Brie. Indeed, it is a double cream soft white mould cheese that is made with ultrafiltered cow’s milk.
Who makes Fromager d’Affinois?
Fromagerie Guilloteau makes Fromager d’Affinois as well as a number of other similar cheeses including Fleurette (goat’s milk), Le Campagnier (washed rind) and Bleu d’Affinois (blue cheese).
What does d’Affinois mean?
Jean Claude Guilloteau invented this name as a combination of Dauphiné and affinage (the art of maturing cheese).
Is d’Affinois made with powdered milk?
Fromager d’Affinois is made with Montbéliarde and Holstein cow’s milk that has been ultrafiltered. Ultrafiltered milk can be spray dried to produce a powder that is rich in protein and fat. Since Fromagerie Guilloteau use a patented production method, it is not known whether they completely remove the water from their ultrafiltered milk.
What does d’Affinois taste like?
To be honest, there’s not much to report here. Your senses will detect mostly the luscious mouthfeel of this cheese. With an ultra-refined palate, you might notice some subtle notes of butter and salt. Moreover, this cheese and its rind do not have much of an aroma either.
Is Fromager d’Affinois good for you?
Well, that is a complex question to answer. Due to its high fat and low carb content, it is a popular cheese for people following a ketogenic diet. However, due to its white mould, it is not suitable for pregnant cheese lovers. Moreover, ultrafiltered milk is lower in calcium, vitamins and minerals. As a result, it is not as nutritious as most other cheeses.
Conclusion: not Brie but still hugely popular
Thank you for reading our post on Fromager d’Affinois. Regardless of your opinion on this commercial cheese, you can’t dismiss its popularity. Are you a d’Affinois lover or hater? Let me know in the comments.
References
¹ Science Direct: Ultrafiltration of cheese milk
² National Library of Medicine: Water Soluble Vitamins
Jonah is a a hipster, eco-warrior and slow food afficionado. Coming from a scientific background, Jonah has a particular interest in cheese science. And yes, he loves a good cheese pun!
