If you take any interest in artisanal cheese, you’ve no doubt heard a cheese monger or fellow curd nerd harp on about how raw milk cheese is the best. But, what is raw milk cheese? And why is it the best? In this article, we’ll explain how cheese can safely be made with raw milk and why it is so important.
SEE ALSO: The reason why Stilton is not made with raw milk anymore →
Raw milk vs unpasteurised milk
Before we delve into the many reasons why cheese made with raw milk is so important, let’s take a quick technical detour. Raw and unpasteurised are two terms that are often used interchangeably when referring to milk. But, as a matter of fact, they don’t mean the same thing.
Firstly, raw milk is not heat treated in anyway. On the other hand, unpasteurised milk might have been warmed or gently heated to temperatures below those used in pasteurisation (we’ll get back to this later).
Moreover, raw milk is also not refrigerated, fermented or cultured. It is freshly milked, kept at its natural temperature and not homogenised.
Is raw milk safe to drink?
Due to its nature, raw milk is only safe to drink if the strictest of farming practices are adhered to. Usually, this involves maintaining the highest standards for animal and teat/udder health. Consequently, the farmer is able to minimise the presence of pathogens such as Salmonella, Listeria and E.coli in the milk.
However, the unfortunate reality is that this is very rarely the case. Commercially available milk has to be pasteurised to meet food safety standards in most countries.
The effect of industrialisation
The main reason for this is industrialisation in the US, UK and western Europe. Due to dense development around city and urban hubs, there is no longer space for farming of any type near where consumers live. As a result of this, producers have to transport milk (and cheese) over very long distances.
Therefore, raw milk became more dangerous to drink because the levels of potentially harmful bacteria would rise with the prolonged transit time, poor hygiene and abusive animal husbandry practices.
What is pasteurisation?
The solution to this quandary was pasteurisation. Pioneered by Louis Pasteur, pasteurisation involves heating milk to around 70°C or 160°F for around 15 seconds. Pasteurisation of milk removes all bacteria, the harmful and the good. While this process makes milk safer to drink, it does lead to a loss of identity.
You can read more about the positive and negative effects of pasteurisation on cheese by clicking here.
Benefits of raw milk cheese
Across continents and generations, raw milk has been the foundation of traditional cheesemaking. Having said this, the reason why raw milk cheese is so important to this day goes well beyond the preservation of traditional methods.
Indeed, raw milk carries the microbial fingerprint of the region it comes from. Besides, any heat treatment (pasteurisation and even gentle heating like thermalisation) partially erodes or even completely erases that identity.
The term used in the industry to describe this unique identity is terroir. While terroir also includes human practises and animal/human interactions, it all starts with the soil qualities, local flora and the milk.
Does raw milk cheese actually taste better?
We’ve talked extensively on how the use of raw milk creates unique cheeses in every region. But do raw milk cheeses actually taste better than pasteurised milk versions? Well, this is open to debate because the organoleptic attributes of taste are so subjective.
So, my answer to this question would be that all cheese that has been made with love and care will taste amazing. Indeed, there are pasteurised milk cheeses that I actually prefer to raw milk ones. The value of raw milk cheese is not in its taste but rather in its identity.
Making cheese with raw milk
So, how do we preserve those unique qualities in cheese? Without a doubt, the best way is to use raw milk. While raw milk cheeses are a mainstay in western European countries like France, Spain and Italy, they are much harder to find in north America and Australia.
The main reason for this is that cheese is often made on a small scale in those European countries, with more care given to the animals and production. With proper hygiene and sanitation practices in place, producers can handle raw milk in a safe manner to minimise harmful pathogens.
Effect of pasteurisation on cheesemaking
In most of the western world, cheese production grew with the industrial revolution and the invention of pasteurisation. Because of this, most dairy farms and cheesemakers invested in pasteurisation equipment. Furthermore, they organised their standard operative procedures around pasteurisation.
The most unfortunate consequence of this is that animal care and sanitation have suffered as a result of an over-reliance on pasteurisation to “clean up their mess”.
One other result of pasteurisation is the standardisation of milk and dairy products. By removing the identity of the milk and its unique microflora, cheese became a commodity in most developed countries. Those generic products could be sold at a standard price and pushed producers to compete on that price. Consequently, the market rewarded those who could produce cheese cheaper, and faster.
The “threat” of raw milk cheese
In the US and Australia, raw milk cheeses present a threat to the hegemony of companies that mass produce cheese. Because they can’t be standardised, they bring unparalleled diversity to the market place. Moreover, artisanal cheesemakers do more than just turn milk into cheese for a profit. They craft unique products to feed and nurture.
Because of this threat, bigger corporations have lobbied for stricter restrictions on the production and sale of raw milk cheeses. You can read more about what happened to raw milk Stilton by clicking here.
Approval for raw milk cheeses
Over the last 50 years, the majority of small scale producers in those countries have also been forced to invest in pasteurisation equipment. With the increased awareness and support for raw milk cheese, a number of those artisans are being tempted to change how they make cheese.
However, implementing such a change can be very cost and labour intensive. And reaching an agreement with local food safety bodies can be very tedious.
For that reason, while raw milk cheeses are common in Europe, they are very hard to find (if at all) in north America and Australia.
The FDA’s 60 Day Rule
According to the FDA, all raw milk cheeses have to undergo a minimum aging period of 60 days at a temperature of 1°C (35°F) or higher. This aging requirement is based on the debatable premise that 60 days is sufficient time for certain inherent safety mechanisms within the cheese to counteract the growth of harmful microbes.
Moreover, some of these natural safeguards include acid development, salt content and competing bacteria. Collectively, the FDA claims that they aid in preserving the cheese and preventing the growth of pathogens to some extent.
Presently, a number of European raw milk cheeses such as Brie de Meaux fall victim to the 60 Day Rule. As a result, the FDA has banned them for sale in the United States.
Summary: the politics of raw milk cheese
Thank you for reading our article on raw milk cheese. As you can guess, this is a topic that we are very passionate about.
We’d love to hear your thoughts on the politics of raw milk cheese. How can it be that a cheese that has been good enough for centuries in one country is banned in another? Drop us a comment below.
Jonah is a a hipster, eco-warrior and slow food afficionado. Coming from a scientific background, Jonah has a particular interest in cheese science. And yes, he loves a good cheese pun!
