Why Some Cheeses Have an Umami Taste (& Savoury Flavour)

Have you ever tasted a cheese so rich and savoury it made your mouth water? That’s umami, the “fifth taste”, creating an unforgettable experience. Found in aged and carefully crafted cheeses, this flavour captivates food lovers worldwide. But why does cheese have this savoury magic? Let’s explore the science, the role of ageing, and how to make the most of umami-rich cheeses.

SEE ALSO: Understanding the full range of organoleptic properties present in cheese →

What is umami?

Umami, often described as savoury or meaty, is one of the five basic tastes. Alongside sweet, salty, sour and bitter, umami adds depth to food. The word comes from Japanese and translates to “pleasant savoury taste”. Foods like mushrooms, tomatoes, soy sauce and cheese are famous for their umami profiles.

The main compound responsible for umami is glutamate, a type of amino acid. When glutamate interacts with taste receptors on the tongue, it creates the signature savoury flavour. In cheese, umami develops as proteins break down into smaller molecules during ageing. We’ll take a closer look at this further down.

What’s the difference between salty and savoury?

The terms “salty” and “savoury” describe different aspects of taste and flavour, though they are often used interchangeably in casual conversation. Here’s how they differ:

Salty

• Definition: Refers specifically to the taste of salt, caused by sodium ions interacting with taste receptors on the tongue.
• Primary Source: Salt (sodium chloride) is the main ingredient that creates a salty taste, but it can also come from other sodium-containing compounds.
• Examples: Potato chips, pretzels, salted nuts and soy sauce.
• Role in Food: Adds a distinct taste and is often used to enhance other flavours. However, too much salt can overwhelm a dish.

Savoury

• Definition: Refers to the umami taste. Umami is caused by free glutamates and nucleotides found in certain foods.
• Primary Source: Foods rich in glutamate, such as aged cheese, cured meats, mushrooms, soy sauce and tomatoes.
• Examples: Parmigiano Reggiano cheese, miso soup, roasted mushrooms and beef broth.
• Role in Food: Provides a deep, rich, and complex flavour that makes food more satisfying and hearty.

In summary, salty and savoury describe distinct tastes: salty highlights the sharpness of sodium, while savoury reflects the depth provided by umami compounds. They often complement each other in cooking but represent different flavour dimensions.

Why does cheese taste umami?

Cheese contains proteins, primarily casein, which are broken down by enzymes and bacteria during ageing. This process, known as proteolysis, releases amino acids, including glutamate. The more glutamate present, the stronger the umami flavour.

Cheese relies on microorganisms such as bacteria and moulds during production. These microbes do more than just preserve the cheese—they shape its flavour.

• Bacteria like Lactobacillus and Streptococcus produce enzymes that break down proteins into peptides and amino acids. These compounds are the building blocks of umami. The longer the bacteria are active, the more intense the savoury flavour becomes.
• In blue and soft cheeses, moulds like Penicillium roqueforti or Penicillium camemberti add complexity to the umami profile. They break down fats and proteins in unique ways, creating bold, savoury notes. This is why cheeses like Roquefort or Camembert have such distinctive tastes.

Examples of glutamate-rich cheeses

Here are the approximate glutamate contents in some popular aged cheeses, measured in milligrams of free glutamate per 100 grams:

1. Parmigiano Reggiano (1200 – 2200 mg): Parmigiano Reggiano is one of the richest sources of free glutamate, contributing to its intense umami flavour.
2. Comté (539 – 1570 mg): Gruyère’s nutty and savoury notes owe much to its free glutamate content.
3. Cabrales (~760 mg): This Spanish blue cheese packs a large amount of free glutamate due to its mould content and prolonged ageing period.
4. Aged Cheddar (173 – 718 mg): The umami in Cheddar increases with age, as proteins break down into free glutamate and peptides.
5. Roquefort (~471 mg): The combination of free glutamate and the activity of Penicillium roqueforti makes this blue cheese savoury and tangy.
6. Emmentaler (~307 mg): This cheese has a mild umami presence, balanced by its sweet and nutty flavours.
7. Aged Gouda ( ~295 mg): Aged Gouda’s umami is milder compared to Parmesan but grows as the cheese matures.

The glutamate content varies slightly depending on factors like ageing time, production method and milk quality. Aged cheeses consistently have more glutamate than fresh varieties due to the protein breakdown during maturation.

Scroll down to the appendix at the bottom for my table of free glutamate content in different cheeses.

How glutamate levels increase as cheese ages

The concentration of free glutamate in cheese typically increases during the ageing process due to biochemical transformations involving proteins. Here’s how this happens:

Proteolysis and the release of glutamate

Ageing, also known as maturation, is a period during which enzymes and microorganisms break down proteins into smaller compounds like peptides and free amino acids. One of the amino acids released during this process is glutamate. The proteolytic activity is driven by:

• Milk enzymes: Naturally occurring in milk.
• Starter cultures: Added to initiate fermentation.
• Moulds or bacteria: Especially in cheeses like Roquefort or Camembert.

Enhanced umami flavour with time

As cheeses age, the breakdown of casein proteins produces high levels of free glutamate. This enhances the savoury, umami flavour associated with aged cheeses such as Parmesan and Gruyère. For example:

• Parmigiano Reggiano can develop up to 2200 mg of free glutamate per 100 g due to its extended ageing process.
• Comté, aged for 18 months, accumulates up to 1570 mg of free glutamate per 100g.

Role of ripening conditions

Factors that influence the rate and extent of glutamate release during ageing include:

• Duration of ageing: Longer ageing allows more time for enzymatic activity.
• Temperature and humidity: Optimal conditions support the growth of bacteria and moulds responsible for protein breakdown.
• Type of cheese: Hard cheeses like Parmigiano Reggiano undergo significant protein breakdown, while soft cheeses like Brie experience less.

Peak flavour development

As glutamate levels rise, cheeses develop a more intense and complex umami flavour. This is why aged cheeses are often more savoury and prized for their rich taste profiles. However, over-ageing can sometimes lead to imbalances, where other flavour compounds may dominate.

Understanding how ageing impacts glutamate levels helps cheesemakers and consumers appreciate the depth of flavour in matured cheeses.

The role of nucleotides in umami flavour in cheese

Nucleotides, particularly inosinate (IMP) and guanylate (GMP), play a supporting role in enhancing umami flavour when combined with glutamate. While their levels in cheese are typically lower than in other umami-rich foods like meat or mushrooms, they significantly impact the perception of savoury flavour.

How nucleotides contribute to umami

Nucleotides are compounds derived from the breakdown of nucleic acids during the cheese ageing process. They contribute to umami in two key ways:

1. Synergistic Interaction with Glutamate: The combination of nucleotides and glutamate intensifies umami perception, creating a more profound savoury experience than either compound alone. For example, cheeses with high glutamate content, such as Parmigiano Reggiano or Comté, may have enhanced umami effects due to nucleotides present in smaller amounts.
2. Development of Depth and Complexity: Nucleotides contribute to the layered flavours that develop during ageing. They interact with other flavour molecules to produce a more rounded and satisfying taste.

Formation during ageing

Nucleotides are formed as a by-product of microbial activity and enzymatic breakdown of ribonucleic acids (RNA) in cheese. The extent of nucleotide release depends on:

• The type of starter cultures used.
• Ageing conditions, including time, temperature and humidity.
• The presence of specific bacteria and moulds, which influence nucleotide metabolism.

Cheeses where nucleotides play a role

While specific data on nucleotide content in cheese is limited compared to free glutamate, aged and fermented cheeses are most likely to benefit from nucleotide contributions. Examples include:

• Parmigiano Reggiano: Known for its synergistic umami punch.
• Blue cheeses: Such as Roquefort and Cabrales, where microbial activity supports nucleotide release.
• Washed rind cheeses: Like Époisses, which undergo intense bacterial activity.

For a deeper understanding of umami chemistry in cheese, I recommend consulting resources on food science, such as those provided by the Umami Information Center.

Why some cheeses lack umami

Not all cheeses have an umami flavour. Fresh cheeses, such as Ricotta or Cream Cheese, are made without ageing. Because their proteins remain largely intact, they lack the savoury depth found in aged varieties.

Umami in plant-based cheeses

Plant-based cheeses are becoming more popular, but do they have umami? Some brands replicate umami by using ingredients like nutritional yeast or fermented soy. While they can mimic the savoury taste, they lack the complexity of traditionally aged cheese.

How to enjoy umami-rich cheeses

Pairing umami with complementary flavours

Umami-rich cheeses pair beautifully with sweet, salty, and acidic foods. For example:

• Pair Parmesan with balsamic vinegar for a balance of savoury and tangy.
• Enjoy aged Gouda with dried fruits for a sweet contrast.
• Serve blue cheese with honey to balance its boldness.

Cooking with umami

Cooking with umami-rich cheeses enhances dishes in incredible ways:

• Grate Parmesan over pasta to add depth to the sauce.
• Melt aged Cheddar into soups for a savoury boost.
• Crumble blue cheese into salads for a flavourful twist.

Wine and cheese

Pairing wine with umami-rich cheeses requires some thought. Dry, fruity wines work well because they balance the savoury notes. For example, a robust red complements aged Cheddar, while a sweet dessert wine pairs perfectly with blue cheese.

Conclusion

Umami is what makes aged cheeses so irresistible. The combination of amino acids, microbes, and time creates a depth of flavour that’s unmatched. Whether you’re enjoying Parmigiano Reggiano on pasta or blue cheese with honey, umami-rich cheeses elevate every dish.

Are you ready to explore more about cheese? Visit our Cheese Scientist blog for tips, recipes and fascinating cheese facts!

Appendix

Glutamate levels in cheese

References

Umami content in cheese – https://www.umamiinfo.com/umamidb/

Jonah Kincaid

Cheese lover. Scientist. Created a website and a Youtube channel about cheese science because he could not find answers to his questions online.