Brillat-Savarin. La Luna. Wabash Cannonball. What do all those cheeses have in common? They all have a gorgeous wrinkly white mould rind. Read on to find out why those cheeses are so wrinkly.
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A mould called Geotrichum candidum
Those wrinkles are caused by a mould called Geotrichum candidum. As a matter of fact, G. candidum (affectionately known as Geo) is a fungus that belongs to the human microbiome group. However, it can be used in cheesemaking in a number of different ways.
Cultures can be added to the milk, brine or even sprayed onto the surface of the cheese. Within 10 days of inoculation, the mould spreads across the entire surface of the white cheese, forming a velvety coating.
Why is my cheese so wrinkly?
That is when it really gets to work. The mould breaks down a number of amino acids in the curd and produces ammonia which reduces the acidity of the cheese.
It also invites Penicillium candidum (a white mould you will find on cheeses like Brie and Camembert) to colonise the surface of the cheese.
All those events cause the rind on the surface to become more undulating as the cheese matures.
More than just a pretty cheese
As well as making an aesthetic contribution, Geo also has an impact on the aroma (sweet and buttery) and flavour (yeasty) of the cheese.
Some classic examples of cheeses made using this mould in France include the famous triple cream, Brillat-Savarin, the goat’s milk log Sainte-Maure-de-Touraine and the cute and small Saint-Marcellin.
The most spectacular example made here in Australia has to be Holy Goat’s La Luna. The ring-shaped soft matured goat’s milk cheese has got the most perfect wrinkles you can find on a cheese! In the US, look out for Wabash Cannonball and Coupole.
Cheese lover. Scientist. Created a website and a Youtube channel about cheese science because he could not find answers to his questions online.
