Camembert, one of France’s most iconic cheeses, is loved worldwide. Its soft, creamy texture and distinct aroma have made it a favourite for centuries. Behind this famous cheese lies a fascinating story. A story about a woman named Marie Harel, a simple farmer who became a legend in the world of cheese.
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A humble beginning
Marie Harel was born in 1761 in the village of Crouttes, located in the Normandy region of France. This part of France is known for its lush green pastures and dairy farming.
Back then, dairy products, especially cheese, were an important part of life in Normandy. From a young age, Marie was involved in her family’s farm, learning the art of cheesemaking from her mother.
The influence of a priest
The legend of Camembert begins during the French Revolution, a time of great turmoil and change. In 1791, a priest from Brie, fleeing persecution, sought refuge at the Harel farm. This priest, known as Abbé Charles-Jean Bonvoust, had extensive knowledge of cheesemaking. While hiding at the farm, he shared his secrets with Marie, teaching her new techniques.
One key lesson the priest taught was the use of Penicillium mould in cheesemaking. In Brie, this mould was already used to create the famous Brie cheese. Marie combined these teachings with her own knowledge. She used the local milk from Normandy and refined the methods to suit the region’s conditions.
And this combination gave birth to what we now know as Camembert cheese.
The rise of Camembert
Marie’s new cheese was an instant hit in the local area. Its rich, creamy taste and soft texture were unlike any other cheese made in Normandy at the time. As word spread, Camembert cheese was being sold in markets beyond the village of Camembert, which gave the cheese its name.
But it was Marie’s daughter, also named Marie, and her descendants who helped popularise Camembert. Over time, they continued to make the cheese following the family recipe and expanded its production.
By the mid-19th century, Camembert had become a well-known product throughout France.
Napoleon III and national recognition
The turning point for Camembert came in 1855. Emperor Napoleon III, known for his love of food, became a fan of Camembert. His endorsement brought national attention to the cheese. Soon, Camembert was being served at prestigious events and in the homes of the French elite.
Consequently, this royal approval solidified Camembert’s place as a national treasure.
The role of the industrial revolution
The late 19th century saw major advancements in technology and transportation. With the invention of the railway, Camembert cheese could be transported over long distances. This allowed it to reach markets in Paris and other major cities.
The creation of the wooden Camembert box in 1890, by Eugène Ridel, further aided its transportation. The box protected the delicate cheese and kept it fresh during shipping. Thanks to these innovations, Camembert became a household name across France.
The importance of Normandy milk
One of the reasons Camembert is so unique is the milk used in its production. Normandy cows, known for their high-quality milk, graze on the rich pastures of the region. The climate and soil of Normandy are ideal for dairy farming. As a result, their milk is rich in fat, perfect for making creamy cheeses like Camembert.
Traditionally, raw milk was used to make Camembert. This gave the cheese its distinct flavour and texture. Today, pasteurised versions are also available, but many connoisseurs believe the raw milk version is superior.
Camembert and World War I
Camembert’s fame spread beyond France’s borders during World War I. French soldiers were provided with Camembert in their rations, thanks to its long shelf life and ease of transport.
As they shared this cheese with their allies, they introduced Camembert to soldiers from Britain and the United States. After the war, demand for Camembert grew internationally, especially in Britain.
Protecting the tradition
As Camembert grew in popularity, many producers outside Normandy began making their own versions. This led to concerns about the authenticity and quality of the cheese. In 1983, the French government granted Camembert de Normandie an AOC (Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée) status. This protected the name “Camembert de Normandie” and ensured that only cheese made from raw milk in specific parts of Normandy could bear this name.
Today, when buying Camembert, you may notice two types: “Camembert de Normandie” and “Camembert”. The latter may be made with pasteurised milk or outside the designated region, while the former follows strict guidelines to preserve the traditional methods.
The legacy of Marie Harel
Marie Harel’s contribution to the world of cheese cannot be overstated. While her story is part legend, there is no doubt she played a crucial role in the creation of Camembert. Her legacy lives on, not just in the cheese itself, but in the entire culture surrounding it.
Today, the village of Camembert is a pilgrimage site for cheese lovers. Visitors can learn about the history of Camembert and even visit the farm where Marie Harel first made her famous cheese. The cheese is celebrated in festivals, museums, and books, ensuring Marie’s place in culinary history.
Camembert in modern times
Camembert remains one of the most popular cheeses in the world. It is enjoyed in many forms—baked, paired with fruit or simply eaten with bread. Despite changes in production methods, the heart of Camembert remains the same. It is a symbol of French culinary tradition and craftsmanship.
Modern cheesemakers continue to experiment with Camembert, creating variations that appeal to different tastes. Vegan and plant-based versions are also being developed, catering to those who avoid dairy. Yet, no matter how much it evolves, the essence of Camembert, born from the passion of Marie Harel, remains intact.
Conclusion
The story of Marie Harel and Camembert is a tale of innovation, tradition, and passion. From a small farm in Normandy to the tables of emperors and soldiers, Camembert has touched the lives of many. Its journey from a local delicacy to a global icon is a testament to the power of great food.
And at the heart of it all is Marie Harel, a woman whose name will forever be linked to one of the world’s finest cheeses.
Jonah is a a hipster, eco-warrior and slow food afficionado. Coming from a scientific background, Jonah has a particular interest in cheese science. And yes, he loves a good cheese pun!
