Nestled in the picturesque landscapes of the Swiss Alps, Appenzeller cheese’s history dates back more than 700 years. Renowned for its unique, tangy flavour and aromatic profile, this semi-hard cheese is unlike any other. Together, let’s delve into its history, production process, and culinary uses.
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History of Appenzeller
Appenzeller is a semi-hard raw cow’s milk cheese from the picturesque Appenzell region of Switzerland. This area, known for its lush pastures and pristine environment, provides the ideal conditions for dairy farming and cheese production.
The earliest records of Appenzeller cheese trace back to the year 1282. Actually, its production has been passed down through generations of local farmers and cheesemakers. The distinctive flavour of Appenzeller cheese comes down to its unique ageing process. We’ll take a closer look at this a bit further down.
Over the centuries, Appenzeller cheese has garnered a reputation for its exceptional quality and flavour.
Where does Appenzeller come from?
The Appenzell area, situated at the foothills of the Swiss Alps, encompasses parts of the cantons of Appenzell Innerrhoden and Appenzell Ausserrhoden. The unique geographical features and climate of this region play a crucial role in shaping the distinctive characteristics of Appenzeller.
The terroir of the Appenzell region is characterized by its lush pastures, clean air, high altitude and ample rainfall. Together those elements contribute to the growth of high-quality forage. Thanks to their exceptional diet, the local cows produce milk with a rich, creamy consistency. And this milk is the foundational ingredient of Appenzeller cheese.
Undoubtedly, the traditional farming practices in the Appenzell region are also integral to the cheese’s terroir. Small, family-run farms dominate the landscape, and the cows are often raised in a free-range environment. This sustainable approach to dairy farming not only ensures the well-being of the animals but also enhances the quality of the milk they produce.
The combination of these natural and human factors creates a unique terroir. Without a doubt, each wheel of cheese carries with it the essence of the Appenzell region.
How is Appenzeller made?
Cow breed
The Brown Swiss cow is the primary breed used in producing Appenzeller cheese. Overall, this is a robust and adaptable breed that thrives in the alpine climate. Moreover, these cows have a high milk yield and produce milk that is rich in fat and protein. Those two components are vital for cheese production.
Raw milk
The use of raw milk is a key element in crafting Appenzeller cheese. Raw milk is milk that has not been pasteurised, meaning it retains its natural enzymes and beneficial bacteria. As a result, it contributes to the complex flavour profile and unique characteristics of the cheese.
Because freshness of raw milk is crucial, the farmers collect and transport it to the cheesemaking facilities daily. This immediacy helps preserve the milk’s natural flavours and properties.
Heating and adding cultures
Once the raw milk arrives at the cheesemaking facility, the cheesemaker gently heats in large copper vats. They bring the milk to a specific temperature, which can vary slightly depending on the cheesemaker’s tradition.
Then, they add starter cultures and natural rennet to the milk. These cultures are crucial for initiating the fermentation process, while rennet helps coagulate the milk, forming curds.
Curd formation and cutting
As the milk coagulates, it transforms into a custard-like mass known as curds. The curds are then cut into small pieces using special cheese harps.
The size of the curds can influence the texture of the final product. For Appenzeller cheese, the curds are typically cut into small pieces to facilitate the release of whey.
Stirring and heating
The maker then gently stirs the curds and whey and gradually heats the mixture to a higher temperature. This process helps expel more whey from the curds and promotes the development of the desired texture. The heating is done slowly and carefully to ensure even cooking and to avoid damaging the curds.
Draining and pressing
Once the curds have reached the desired consistency, the whey is drained off. The maker then scoops the curds into round moulds, which give the cheese its characteristic shape.
Afterwards, they place those moulds under pressure to further expel any remaining whey. This also knits the curds together into a solid mass. Overall, this pressing process can last several hours.
Brining
After pressing, the cheese wheels are immersed in a salt brine bath for a period of time. This can range from several hours to a few days. The brine helps form the cheese’s rind, enhances its flavour, and acts as a natural preservative.
Importantly, the duration of the brining process can affect the saltiness and firmness of the cheese.
How is Appenzeller matured?
The maturation process of Appenzeller cheese is an intricate and carefully managed phase. Overall, this involves several key steps and can last from three months to over a year.
Special herbal wash
One of the most distinctive features of Appenzeller cheese maturation is the regular washing with a special mixture. This brine, known as “Kräutersulz”, is a closely guarded secret and varies slightly among producers.
It typically includes a blend of wine, cider and a mix of local herbs and spices. During ageing, an affineur applies this solution to the cheese wheels several times a week. This happens more frequently during the initial stages of affinage.
As a matter of fact, the herbal brine serves multiple purposes:
- Flavour Development: The herbs and spices in the brine impart a distinctive tangy and aromatic taste to the cheese.
- Rind Formation: The washing process helps develop the cheese’s characteristic orange-brown rind.
- Moisture Regulation: The brine helps maintain the right moisture levels in the cheese, preventing it from drying out.
Temperature and humidity control
Appenzeller cheese is aged in carefully controlled environments where temperature and humidity are meticulously regulated. Swiss affineurs keep their cellars cellars around 12-15°C (54-59°F), with high humidity levels. This environment helps slow down the ageing process, allowing the cheese to develop complex flavours gradually.
Ageing duration
The ageing duration of Appenzeller cheese varies, resulting in different flavour profiles and textures. We’ll explore those further a bit later.
Monitoring and turning
Throughout the maturation process, the affineur painstakingly turns and inspects each wheel of Appenzeller cheese. This ensures even ageing and helps prevent any defects. this process also involves checking for consistency in flavour, texture and rind formation.
Different types of Appenzeller
Appenzeller is released to the market at various stages of maturation. Actually, the Silver label is released at 3 months, Gold at 4-5 months, Black at 6 months and, finally, Purple at 9 months.
In addition to the different ages, there is also a White label (3 months and extra cream) and a Green label (made with organic milk).
What does Appenzeller taste like?
Due to the intense herbal wash, Appenzeller has quite a unique flavour. As the cheese ages, its flavour intensifies and gets more complex. Hence, at 3 months, a Silver label will be mild and savoury with hints of herbs and flowers. Also, its texture is supple and creamy.
On the other hand, at 9 months, the Purple label has intense flavours of herbs and spices. And its paste is firmer and dotted with scrumptious cheese crystals.
How to serve Appenzeller
In Swiss homes and restaurants, Appenzeller cheese is commonly presented on wooden boards or slate platters. Thinly cut slices showcase its characteristic golden-yellow interior speckled with small holes.
Accompaniments vary but often include:
- Crusty bread, such as rustic Swiss bread or dense rye bread, which complement the cheese’s robust flavour.
- Fruit like pear or apple slices.
- Something sweet like honey or quince paste.
- Something tangy such as pickles and cornichons.
Finally, you can pair Appenzeller cheese with several regional wines or Swiss beers.
Cooking with Appenzeller
Thanks to its unique taste and smooth texture, Appenzeller excels in a variety of culinary creations. From comforting classics to innovative dishes, here are some of the best recipes showcasing the versatility of Appenzeller cheese:
1. Appenzeller Cheese Fondue
A quintessential Swiss dish, Appenzeller cheese fondue combines the rich flavours of this cheese with white wine and garlic. This creates a creamy and indulgent dipping sauce for bread, vegetables and meats.
2. Appenzeller Cheese Tart
This savoury tart features Appenzeller cheese as the star ingredient, combined with caramelized onions, thyme and a buttery crust. This dish balances the cheese’s nutty and slightly tangy notes with the sweetness of onions. As a result, it is a great choice for brunch or a light dinner.
3. Appenzeller Cheese and Potato Gratin
Layers of thinly sliced potatoes, Appenzeller cheese, cream, and a touch of nutmeg baked to golden perfection. This comforting dish highlights the cheese’s melt-in-your-mouth quality and pairs wonderfully with roasted meats or as a standalone vegetarian main.
Conclusion
As you can see, Appenzeller cheese stands as a testament to Swiss craftsmanship and culinary tradition. Its distinctive taste and creamy texture, makes it an excellent table and cooking cheese.
Whether enjoyed in a classic fondue, a hearty gratin, or simply paired with crusty bread and wine, Appenzeller cheese delights the palate.
What’s your favourite type of Appenzeller? Let me know in the comments below.
Jonah is a a hipster, eco-warrior, and self-proclaimed cheese wanker. Coming from a scientific background, Jonah has a particular interest in cheese science. And yes, he loves a good cheese pun!
