There are few cheeses around the world that bring up as much passion as Ossau-Iraty. Indeed, this traditional sheep’s milk cheese is the pride of the Pays Basque region of France. Read on to learn about its history, how it is made, what it tastes like and how to serve it like the Basque.
SEE ALSO: The complete list of France’s most protected AOP cheeses →
What type of cheese is Ossau-Iraty?
Ossau-Iraty is a semi-hard, traditional French cheese crafted from pure sheep’s milk. Hailing from the picturesque regions of the French Pays Basque and Béarn, this cheese is celebrated for its rich, nutty flavour profile, which is delicately balanced with buttery and slightly sweet undertones.
The texture is smooth and creamy, offering a satisfying mouthfeel that complements its complex taste. Typically aged for at least 80 days, Ossau-Iraty develops a natural rind and a distinctive aroma that evokes the pastoral landscapes where it is produced.
Where does Ossau-Iraty come from?
According to the AOP, the production area for Ossau-Iraty is in France’s Pays Basque and Béarn regions. This picturesque region in the Pyrenées is near the border with Spain.
Due to its geographic location and climate, it has been a prized region for agriculture since the neolithic times. Moreover, the amount of rain and minerals in the soil produce a fresh grass in the plains that is well suited to sheep.
Actually, the cheese gets its name from the Ossau valley and Irati forest. Let’s take a closer look at those regions.
The Ossau Valley
The Ossau Valley, located in the Pyrénées-Atlantiques department in southwestern France, is a stunning natural landscape known for its picturesque beauty and rich cultural heritage.
It is part of the French Pyrenées, with the Ossau River running through it. Because it is surrounded by dramatic mountain peaks, lush forests, and verdant pastures, it has become a paradise for nature lovers and outdoor enthusiasts.
The valley is dotted with charming villages such as Laruns, Eaux-Bonnes, and Gourette, each offering a glimpse into traditional Pyrenean life with their stone houses, narrow streets, and vibrant local markets.
Without a doubt, the Ossau Valley has a vibrant cultural heritage, with traditional music, dance, and festivals playing a significant role in community life. The local cuisine, featuring products like the Ossau-Iraty cheese, reflects the valley’s pastoral traditions and agricultural bounty.
Interestingly, farmers in the Ossau Valley tend to make wheels of cheese that weight around 4 kg (8.5 lbs).
The Irati forest
On the other hand, the Irati Forest, located in the western Pyrenées along the border between France and Spain, is one of the largest and best-preserved beech and fir forests in Europe.
The forest spans over 17,000 hectares, covering parts of the Navarre region in Spain and the Pyrénées-Atlantiques department in France. It is characterized by dense woodlands, verdant meadows, and winding rivers, creating a pristine natural environment.
Irati Forest boasts rich biodiversity, home to a wide variety of flora and fauna. Its old-growth beech and fir trees provide habitat for numerous species, including deer, wild boar, and the endangered Pyrenean desman. The forest is also a haven for birdwatchers, with many raptors and forest birds inhabiting the area.
The Irati Forest is steeped in local folklore and history. It is dotted with ancient dolmens and megaliths, evidence of early human settlements. The nearby village of Ochagavía is known for its well-preserved traditional architecture and serves as a gateway to the forest.
Traditionally, cheesemakers in this region made a semi-hard cheese called Ardi. It is typically on the smaller side weighing in at around 2.2 kg (5 lbs).
In fact, the modern Ossau-Iraty cheese is a blend of those two regions’ traditions. Consequently, the wheels come in both sizes.
What milk is used to make Ossau-Iraty cheese?
Also, the AOP specifies that Ossau-Iraty can only be made from the milk of three breeds of sheep. Namely, the Red-Faced Manech, Black-Faced Manech and Basco-Béarnaise.
Those three breeds are particularly well adapted to the terroir of the region and thrive in humid cool conditions. Moreover, the farmers can only feed them grass and non genetically modified cereals. Whilst they tend to yield less milk than other sheep, they are better adapted to the climate and the practice of transhumance.
What is transhumance?
In order to preserve the grass on their property for the winter months, the majority of farmers follow the traditional practice of transhumance. From May in the Pays Basque and June in Béarne, the herders move their sheep to summer pastures at higher altitude.
Actually, they will spend all of summer and the beginning of autumn feeding on this high altitude grass. As a result of this, the grass at lower altitudes can replenish in time for late autumn. The milk collected during those months is used to make the celebrated summer cheeses called Ossau-Iraty d’Estive.
Come the end of autumn, the herd will return to lower grounds and start to lamb. Overall, this process is very important for the sheep, the farmers and the natural eco-system of the mountain.
How to make Ossau-Iraty
The traditional recipe for this semi-hard cheese has remained largely untouched over the millenia. Raw whole ewe’s milk is mixed with culture and rennet. Once the curd is formed, it is cut and drained.
Afterwards, the cheesemaker heats the curd to separate from whey and then transfer the solids to the cheese moulds. Finally, the moulds are pressed and drained. At this point, the cheese has attained its signature form. Subsequently, the wheels are salted and then passed on to the affineur for maturation.
How Ossau-Iraty is matured
The AOP specifies that Ossau-Iraty wheels have to be matured for a minimum of 80 days for the smaller format and 120 days for the larger one. At this point, the cheese will have a fat content of 50% and a gorgeous natural rind.
There is one point of difference between the 2 regions of production though. In Pays Basque, the wheels are matured in dry caves whereas in Béarn, they tend to be very humid. Moreover, the affineur in Pays Basque regularly brushes the cheese with a dry brush whereas, in Béarn, they wipe the wheels with a cloth imbibed in brine.
Those differences in practice lead to slightly different textures, aromas and flavours for the cheeses coming from each location. Overall, this process will last from 80 days to 12 months in some cases.
What Ossau-Iraty tastes like
This semi-hard beauty from the Pyrenees has a hay-coloured patchy rind and a pristine ivory pâte. Its aroma is surprisingly buttery and sweet with a touch of barnyard.
On the palate, you will detect notes of toasted wheat, roasted nuts, fresh grass and wildflowers. As the cheese ages, its creamy texture starts to become firm and calcium crystals start to appear. The flavour also tends to be more savoury.
How to serve Ossau-Iraty
Ossau-Iraty can be enjoyed in various ways. This is how the Basque traditionally enjoy it:
- Plain and Simple: In the Basque Country, Ossau-Iraty is often enjoyed thinly sliced on its own to fully appreciate its unique flavour.
- With Itxassou Cherry Jam: A traditional Basque accompaniment is black cherry jam (confiture de cerises noires). The sweetness of the jam complements the nutty and slightly tangy taste of the cheese.
- With Bread: Serve Ossau-Iraty with rustic bread, such as a crusty baguette or country loaf. The simplicity of the bread enhances the cheese’s flavor.
- Txakoli Wine: Pairing Ossau-Iraty with a glass of Txakoli, a slightly sparkling white wine from the Basque region, is a classic choice. The wine’s acidity balances the richness of the cheese.
Conclusion
As you can see, Ossau-Iraty is a true gem of the Basque and Béarn regions, embodying centuries of artisanal tradition and natural splendour. Its rich, nutty flavour and creamy texture make it a versatile addition to any cheese board, culinary dish or simple snack.
Whether enjoyed on its own, paired with sweet cherry jam, or savoured with a glass of Txakoli, Ossau-Iraty offers a delightful taste of Basque pastoral heritage.
What’s your favourite way to enjoy this Basque wonder? Let me know in the comments below.
Jonah is a a hipster, eco-warrior and slow food afficionado. Coming from a scientific background, Jonah has a particular interest in cheese science. And yes, he loves a good cheese pun!
