West Country Farmhouse Cheddar isn’t just any Cheddar; it’s a British classic with centuries of history. Crafted in the West Country—Somerset, Dorset, Devon, and Cornwall—this Cheddar represents a rich tradition. The cheese has earned a Protected Designation of Origin (PDO), which ensures only Cheddar made in these counties using traditional methods can use the name “West Country Farmhouse Cheddar”.
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Here’s everything you need to know about this iconic cheese, from its production to the passionate cheesemakers preserving its heritage.
What makes West Country Farmhouse Cheddar so special?
This cheese is known for its bold, complex flavour, which comes from its unique origins. To qualify as PDO-certified West Country Farmhouse Cheddar, the cheese must meet these strict standards:
- Made in Specific Counties: Production is limited to Somerset, Dorset, Devon and Cornwall.
- Traditional Ingredients and Techniques: Cheesemakers have to use milk from cows reared within these counties. Moreover, “Cheddaring”—the process of stacking and turning curds by hand—is also required.
- Aged to Perfection: West Country Farmhouse Cheddar is aged for a minimum of nine months, allowing it to develop its nutty, rich taste.
Traditional production methods
The production of West Country Farmhouse Cheddar is a careful process involving skill and tradition. Here’s a look at each step:
- Daily Milk Collection: Milk, often from the cheesemaker’s own cows, is collected daily. If needed, bordering counties supply milk to cover seasonal shortages.
- Developing Flavour with Starter Cultures: A starter culture is added to the milk to create the right acidity. Then, rennet (animal or plant-based) is added to solidify the milk.
- Curd Cutting and Heating: The curd is cut and gently heated to separate it from the whey. The curds are then stacked and turned in the traditional “cheddaring” process, which defines the cheese’s texture.
- Salting and Shaping: The curds are milled into smaller pieces and salted to enhance flavour. They’re then placed in moulds and pressed to remove excess moisture.
- Wrapping and Ageing: Cylindrical cheeses are wrapped in cloth, while rectangular blocks are sealed with a special membrane. This step allows the cheese to breathe and mature.
Meet the makers: West Country’s finest cheesemakers
These cheesemakers are upholding the tradition of true farmhouse Cheddar, using local ingredients and methods passed down for generations.
Here are a few of the region’s best-known producers:
1. Quicke’s (Devon)
Quicke’s has been crafting Cheddar for over 500 years. Their Cheddar, aged up to two years, has rich, earthy notes with a creamy texture. Quicke’s also focuses on sustainable, regenerative farming, working to keep the Devon soil healthy.
2. Montgomery’s (Somerset)
Montgomery’s Cheddar is famous for its caramel-like flavour and firm texture. Produced in Somerset since the early 1900s, their cheese is hand-wrapped in muslin and aged for 12 months, resulting in a complex, savoury taste.
3. Barber’s (Somerset)
Barber’s is one of the oldest Cheddar makers in the world, with a history dating back to 1833. Their Cheddar is aged for 12 months, offering a smooth texture and balanced flavour with hints of sweetness. The Barber family also places a strong emphasis on animal welfare and sustainability.
4. Ford Farm (Dorset)
Ford Farm’s Cheddar is aged in the Wookey Hole Caves in Somerset, giving it a distinctive, earthy taste. The natural conditions in the caves add depth and texture, making Ford Farm’s Cheddar creamy and savoury with a subtle sharpness.
5. Westcombe Dairy (Somerset)
Westcombe Dairy is known for producing bold, complex Cheddar. They age their cheese for 12 to 18 months, showcasing fruity and floral notes with a rich, creamy texture. Moreover, Westcombe’s focus on minimal-intervention farming allows the Somerset landscape to shine through in every wheel.
PDO: Protecting the cheese’s legacy
The PDO label for West Country Farmhouse Cheddar ensures that each wheel is crafted according to tradition. Managed by the Department for Environment, Food and Rural Affairs (Defra), this certification sets strict standards. Regular inspections verify that every cheese made under this name originates in the West Country and meets high quality requirements.
Despite the PDO’s benefits, some cheesemakers feel it doesn’t go far enough to protect this heritage. Indeed, they argue that the standards allow too much flexibility, permitting larger-scale production and the use of pasteurised milk.
These cheesemakers believe that stricter guidelines would better protect the authenticity of West Country Farmhouse Cheddar.
Enter the Artisanal Somerset Cheddar Denomination
In response, a group of Somerset cheesemakers has developed an additional label: the Artisanal Somerset Cheddar denomination. This label represents even higher standards than the PDO for those looking for a more traditional product.
Cheesemakers under this denomination commit to using raw milk from Somerset cows, preserving the unique flavours of local milk. They also exclusively hand-cheddar their cheese, a labour-intensive method that creates traditional texture and depth of flavour. Though unofficial, this label sets their cheese apart as the purest expression of Somerset’s Cheddar-making heritage.
There are currently three cheesemakers that have attained this certification: Westcombe Dairy, Montgomery Cheddar and Trethowan’s Dairy. The latter make a Somerset Cheddar called Pitchfork Cheddar using milk from their herd of Holstein Friesian cows.
Storing and enjoying West Country Farmhouse Cheddar
After bringing your cheese home, store it wrapped in wax or cheese paper in the fridge. This will allow it to breathe while keeping its moisture. This way, you’ll enjoy every flavour as intended by the cheesemaker.
To get the best from West Country Farmhouse Cheddar, bring it to room temperature before serving.
Where to find West Country Farmhouse Cheddar
You can find authentic West Country Farmhouse Cheddar at specialty cheese shops, direct from producers, or at some supermarkets.
Look for the PDO label to confirm its authenticity. Many dairies, like Quicke’s and Montgomery’s, offer farm tours where visitors can see the traditional process and sample Cheddar straight from the source.
Conclusion
West Country Farmhouse Cheddar is a British classic crafted with dedication and skill. Each wheel captures the flavour of the West Country, thanks to time-tested methods and a commitment to quality. Producers like Montgomery’s and Westcombe Dairy are preserving this heritage, ensuring every bite reflects the rich terroir and history of Britain.
When you choose West Country Farmhouse Cheddar, you’re choosing more than a cheese. You’re supporting a legacy of artisanal craftsmanship and experiencing the true taste of Britain’s past and present.
Jonah is a a hipster, eco-warrior and slow food afficionado. Coming from a scientific background, Jonah has a particular interest in cheese science. And yes, he loves a good cheese pun!
